New member, saying hello...

Welcome to the Ford Barn! It's a great place for information.

Yeah. A hot rod guy would easily buy that for $4000-$5000 the way it's sitting.

I only say that because if you can get it for less, just do it. You'll get your money back if you hate it.

I hope that you fix it up stock first and enjoy driving the Model A for a while. They are neat cars and get tons of attention. The nationwide community of Model A enthusiasts is also a perk over a lot of other car clubs.
 
These days, good running gears with most of the engine accessories are going for a minimum of $1,500, and up to $2,500 in some parts of the country from what I hear. Add to that what appears to be a good, solid body and fenders, and I think that you would be safe for anywhere in the $2,500 - $4,000 range. Beyond that, I am prone to agree that there are other considerations that should enter into play ... does the engine run, will the transmission shift smoothly, etc., etc. Regardless, it looks like an enjoyable project, and it appears that all of the "hard" parts to find are still intact. And as others have related, the tudor sedan is one of the more common body styles, so it should be relatively easy to find any missing parts. Good luck whatever you do. Should you decide to go forward, I don't think that you would be disappointed in the long run.

Dick
 
This sounds just like the same situation I was in last year. I had a friend looking for leads to a Model A, and I specifically asked for a Tudor. I didn't care if Coupes, Roadsters, whatever are more popular or not. Yes there are Model A's that bring more money and or will have more demand, it's what you are going to be happy with. Tudors from my experience are the easiest to get parts for besides a coupe.

Yes, you mentioned you are waiting for the paper work. It's possible DMV has no record of it having been registered. That could be in your favor. I usually deal with AAA being a member as they are faster than DMV.

Like everyone has told you about how much for certain items, interior was priced to me from Lebaron Bonney for just under $2,500. IF you have done restorations like you said then you will have an idea of what can be involved with a car the condition yours is in. I plan on clearing out my garage, put up plastic from the ceiling and walls and paint in pieces, body off the frame, later fenders and running boards, when the time comes that I feel it's time to do it. Nothing is big on these cars nor is anything complicated. I'm also going to do my own upholstery as I have a good used industrial machine. Lots of ways to do the job if you are doing nearly all the work yourself. The prices going in from everyone out there are reasonable. If you go low and they get offended or turn you down, there's others out there to buy. Your bonus with this deal could be the spare engine. Check the fenders for repairs, welded up cracks etc. I got lucky with perfect fenders and no rust. And I'm having a lot of fun with my barn find fixer upper. I have even won a trophy with her. :D Oh and look for the date stamped on the front of the gas tank, might be upside down. It's usually where the bottom of the tank meets the firewall on the drivers side.
 
This is where to look for that firewall/fuel tank date Dennis mentioned. The car would probably have been assembled shortly after the tank was built.

This is the drivers side just above the steering column. It may or may not have been stamped.
 

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parts are pretty cheap. check compression. mine needed a head gasket. oil pan was full of sludge. every thing is pretty straight forward to work on. grease everything.
 
You didn't say where you were located. It might be a good idea to connect with a local club. Sometimes guys will volunteer to go take a look at it with you.

Also, different states have different registration requirements. For some a bill of sale is enough, for others make damn sure that you have a valid, matching title.

Local help is a good thing.

Ken
 
Hey Gang,

Thanks for the warm welcome. I really appreciate all of the info. I don't want to offer too little and offend anyone. I will go with cash in hand and hope it works in my favor.

As of this morning things are going kind of slow because the older owner said that all of the sudden she 'doesn't want to deal with all of it'. I backed off and told the son to let me know when she comes around. Seems like patience will pay off in spades here.

I reached out to the president of the Silicon Valley chapter of the Model A club. No reply back. There are 4 or 5 A's that I see buzzing around the back roads around my house. I think I know where one of the guys live. I may swing by his place one afternoon and chat him up.

If it doesn't happen with this one it may happen with another.
 
1955cj5 said:
This is where to look for that firewall/fuel tank date Dennis mentioned. The car would probably have been assembled shortly after the tank was built.

This is the drivers side just above the steering column. It may or may not have been stamped.
Click to expand...

Is that a fluke or what!! Same date as mine and upside down.:eek:
 
TRP,
Welcome to the Barn! I agree with the gang as posted above that it is probably a 2-4K car.. and as Jason said hot rod guys will give that in a heartbeat... Kevin and Dean highlighted the quality of the sheetmetal and I concur... if the fenders are rough and beads broken etc those are things to take note. They are fixable but stellar sheet metal is worth more than not. I don't mind giving a little more for stellar sheet metal.. the mechanicals ( hopefully it doesn't need an engine rebuild right off) can be fixed easier than doing body work.

Run your hands all over the fenders and body and get the "Feel" of it.. it will tell you a lot.
All the best to you and hope you get it!
Larry Shepard
 
I can't help with the value but can confirm they're very straightforward to work on. A world away from the complications of an air cooled VW. Good luck.
 
To the OP, firstly, welcome to the barn.
Some of you have mentioned that the price of cars varies depending on the location within the US. Where are the cheaper places? Are they where bodies might have been rusted out by salt on the roads?
Questions by someone from outside the US and where salt is NEVER used - it doesn't get cold enough.
 
Many Model A never saw salt because back then they were smart enough to just plow and sand, and not use destructive salt. The problem is many of the states are high humidity and many Model A's were stored outside, under trees or in the woods.
 
My car was came from the USA but, as far as I know was only registered in California and Nevada. The metalwork is in excellent condition, something that would be impossible to find in any car of a similar age that had put up with the mild, damp, seaside salty conditions in my original location in Cornwall in South West England.
 
Enough of all this talk. Either go get the car now or send me a PM and I'll go get it. Yes all the way from Tennessee.
 
I can't help you with all the mechanical mumbo-jumbo, I'm just a driver, I'm many things but not a mechanic but I can welcome you to the Barn. ;)
 
HA! I'll go get it soon. I'm waiting on the family to let me know what day works for them.

I'll report back when I have the car loaded up.

Thanks for all the great info.
Ted
 
The Santa Clara club is a big one, is active, and should be able to help you. I would find out when the next monthly meeting was and go.
I belong to the Livermore club. You would be welcome there also.
Bob
 
TRP said:
HA! I'll go get it soon. I'm waiting on the family to let me know what day works for them.

I'll report back when I have the car loaded up.

Thanks for all the great info.
Ted
Click to expand...

Sounds like your a proud owner of a model A ! Take lots of pictures! Wishing I had :-(
 
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