New Cast Iron Drums Problems

I also installed new cast drums and also had a problem with the front drums, the hub was touching the brake grease baffle ring and was not locking up the wheel but was rubbing, I just penned the rim of the baffle and fixed the problem
 
Well I got the drums back from the machine shop and said they had a few high spots on them. I installed them just as I did the backs. Slipped them on much easier after the second turning and then used a little grease on the drum surface. Then I spun the drum to mark the high spots. It is always the top of the leading shoe and the bottom of the trailing shoe that needed sanding. The Teds brake modification may be an issue but can't say for sure.

It seems to me I would have the drums ground a little over and then simply adjust them in. We have two local club members going thru the same process and both have the same problem from the same supplier.
 
TinCup said:
Well I got the drums back from the machine shop and said they had a few high spots on them. I installed them just as I did the backs. Slipped them on much easier after the second turning and then used a little grease on the drum surface. Then I spun the drum to mark the high spots. It is always the top of the leading shoe and the bottom of the trailing shoe that needed sanding. The Teds brake modification may be an issue but can't say for sure.

It seems to me I would have the drums ground a little over and then simply adjust them in. We have two local club members going thru the same process and both have the same problem from the same supplier.
Click to expand...


Grease on the drums? I don't understand and sure hope you aren't talking about the braking surface. That would not be a good thing.

The drums should be 11.000" in diameter. No more unless you are salvaging an otherwise good drum. Of course, they should certainly not be smaller. If you have a problem with the shoes fitting then correct the problem. It they are properly arced to match the drum and still have the problem you describe then they are off center which must be corrected.
 
Now don't get worried just enough to mark the high spots a thin film on the surface that gets cleaned off. One set was new drums and hubs from a vendor already trued and the other set was just drums that a local club member set the hubs and trued.
 
You know I have old shoes that show where they were arched by crimping the shoes. The shoes I worked on also show where they were adjusted. Other than sanding the shoes how can one today arch the shoes by crimping and shrinking the shoe.

It only took 825 posts for Marco to chime in on one of my posts. Either the subject is very interesting or he thought he better step in before I break something. Always a treat to hear from guys who have forgotten more than I know.
 
I have installed a few of these drums ,If they are tight on the linings, on jack stands I run the motor with the nut loose then tighten them up as they free up .I find the hand brake band is always tight .I weld the studs on the back and grub screw them on so you can take them of with out a puller.
 

Attachments

  • P1010994_0522.jpg
    P1010994_0522.jpg
    57.3 KB · Views: 43
The handbrakes are always tight as the material used to reline them is 3/16" instead of the 5/32" as original. Opening the drum up to 9.650" will help with the newer linings.

Neat idea with the grub screw, but unless you shorten the shoulder on the bolts, your wheel will not sit properly on the drum.
 
FlatheadTed said:
I have installed a few of these drums ,If they are tight on the linings, on jack stands I run the motor with the nut loose then tighten them up as they free up .I find the hand brake band is always tight .I weld the studs on the back and grub screw them on so you can take them of with out a puller.
Click to expand...

Just how well do the studs fill the holes in the drums?
 
This is how I weld the studs, I don't weld around the edge of the hub like this , this was done before me . The studs fit good and snug in the drums .I have never had a problem with the shoulder as it sits about 1/16 above drum .,It may depend on what nuts you have most nuts have a lead in ,I never turn the drums . unless your hubs are damaged no need.But You can check run out with a dial gauge ,
Russ/40 said:
Just how well do the studs fill the holes in the drums?
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • piaroa 074.jpg
    piaroa 074.jpg
    73.3 KB · Views: 142
  • piaroa 070.jpg
    piaroa 070.jpg
    68 KB · Views: 86
This was done on a scrap drum to demonstrate how studs can be welded in ,I would rather have the crub screws .
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top