new 30 roadster electrical...........

R

ronn

Well-known member
just went up to VT and picked up a 30 roadster deluxe.


ran and stalled and so on..... hasnt been driven in yrs.


so I cleaned the gas line and installed a pencil filter. all good. started right up and drove it out back and it shut off. the ignition key is all loose. so tightened that up. now wont fire. when I turn the key on- no draw at the ammeter.


what should I be looking at? there is a fuse on the starter, but it looks fine.


you guys are good- so have at it in the order I should be looking.


thank you.
 
First check the coil and wires, then acertane the gap is correct, recheck gas flow to cylinders and finally recheck compression because valves can stick open. that would be my sequence for diagnosis, you can do it in any order and will still find the cause.
 
OK J, but..............
the ammeter always pulled previously when I went to start it, by switching on the key. wont do anything now......
 
Did you tighten the ignition cable where it enters the distributor?
If so, you may have tightened it to much.
 
Check for voltage at the coil when the ignition key is turned on. Also check for a spark from the coil when cranking.
 
Toot your horn to make sure fuse is good. Turn key on, rotate engine until points are closed, put a test light between ground and moving point arm. Points closed, no light. Points open, light should light. If this does not happen, chase it down with a wiring diagram. Good luck.
 
thank you guys! will try and look at it today.
horn toots fine. will jump switch first, and then follow from there, points, etc.
 
If you have power to other things such as lights etc, since you tightened the switch is the last you did before losing ignition power, thats what I would check. Some of those switches can ground against the fuel tank, 4 screws to remove the dash bezel to take a look.
 
Patrick L. said:
If you have power to other things such as lights etc, since you tightened the switch is the last you did before losing ignition power, thats what I would check. Some of those switches can ground against the fuel tank, 4 screws to remove the dash bezel to take a look.
Click to expand...

This would be where I would start, particularly if it is a repop ignition switch, I had a similar problem and this squared it away.
 
Could be the switch is shorting to the tank as previous posts indicate. Also could be bad and after tightening not working. Connections on the switch could be loose or need cleaning. I had a switch that was intermittently opening in the on position, drove me nuts before I gave up troubleshooting and replaced the switch.
 
If fused pull fuse, if not fused disconnect battery. Pull instrument panel -4 screws, inspect key switch connections, reconnect battery/fuse. If still not working disconnect battery fuse, jumper the key switch connections, reconnect battery/fuse - try again.


Test by running the starter and watch for the ammeter to "wiggle". Since your A is a 30, the ignition coil primary/points runs through the ammeter, the wiggle indicates the points opening closing. It is possible the motor can stop with the points open, and you would not see a current draw even with the ignition switch is on/closed. If you turn on the lights, the ammeter should go negative even if the ignition switch is off/open


Make sure when putting panel back in the switch connections/leads do not short to the gas tank.
 
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