new 30 roadster electrical...........

If you lost spark, then clean the points.



Oh happy days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


you guys are great. cleaned the points and rotor with a piece of emory. she wtd to start, but I flooded her and then......................


purrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!


thank you everyone. I was expecting the worst and got the best!!!!!!!!
 
Last edited:
getPart
 
ronn said:
If you lost spark, then clean the points.



Oh happy days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


you guys are great. cleaned the points and rotor with a piece of emory. she wtd to start, but I flooded her and then......................


purrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!


thank you everyone. I was expecting the worst and got the best!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...


Better to use regular fine sandpaper. Emory and aluminum paper grit is conductive. Then fold it over with grit inside, and clean the points by drawing it through the points using the paper/back side.
 
Cleaning the points after sanding is a biggie ! Silica particles left on the points preclude contact and will confound the trouble shooting process decisively. If points need sanding they really need replacing, or better yet, consider an electronic ignition set up and never mess with points again. Just my $.02.
 
Points look like brand new. Problem is car was stored in garage and guess moisture got to them.
funny, because there was very little rust on any of the contact points.


but just that quick, lost power.
 
ronn; The ideas that you have gotten on this forum are good for
troubleshooting but for further knowledge the studs on the coil will both be at 6 volts when the key if OFF. Depending on where the points are one will be at 6 volts and the other may or may not be at the voltage with the key ON. If you have voltage on the moving point arm with something between the points, like a match book cover, with the key on, then you are good to go as far as your key is concerned because that checks everything between the battery and the distributer. Now it's time to check the points and follow the troubleshooting ideas in the above posts. Get a cheap volt meter, every model A owner should have one. Jack
 
Jack described an excellent procedure to check the ignition system. Would just add that it applies to non-modified OEM systems. On a stock system current flows from the battery to the coil, and then to the ignition switch which connects the coil to the points for cycled grounding to collapse the coil field and generate high voltage to the plugs. Systems modified to 12v negative ground electronic ignition normally have the switch before the coil so no voltage to coil studs unless the switch is on. Systems modified to 6v positive ground electronic ignition often have the coil between the distributor points and ground which really seems strange but works since pulsed voltage is sent to the coil to generate high voltage. Obviously, a system can only be checked if the operational concept is known. Glad you got the old Henry running and back on the road !!
 
thank you gents.


though I understand that the A is always ON, it is sometimes difficult to understand
where the hangup can be, since A's are wired pos ground. I know the system looks simple, but can be confounding to guys like myself, who dont touch them much.
Im hoping to become a little better versed in the electrical. I feel I have the fuel down well enough. Maybe one day I actually rebuild a carb!
 
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