Need some motor installation help

59A engine going into a 1935 1/2T pickup and the clearance from the front of the oil pan to the cross member is going to be a 1/2" or less. Is this normal or should we have swapped oil pans ?.
 
Its not a fun job is it, Ive just been through it all. I take it you had to lock wire it up with the trans in position.. Or did you put the motor and trans in together? My lock wire pliers turned up the day after I had installed it. The six bolts I ended up using Loctite and split pins [cotter pins] bent on angles so that if the bolts did ever try backing out it would just lock up against the outer housing. Hope you have used plenty of sealant as well as those fine gaskets, gets leaky at that back end..
 
Thanks John, I'll swing by the John Deere dealer tomorrow and pick up some corn head grease. That seems to be popular with everyone.
The splined end of the driveshaft doesn't stick out past the bell any. It's in from the end of the bell about 1/32.
Can you tell from the splined end if the drive shaft is hollow or solid?

Chris
 
Talkwrench said:
Its not a fun job is it, Ive just been through it all. I take it you had to lock wire it up with the trans in position.. Or did you put the motor and trans in together? My lock wire pliers turned up the day after I had installed it. The six bolts I ended up using Loctite and split pins [cotter pins] bent on angles so that if the bolts did ever try backing out it would just lock up against the outer housing. Hope you have used plenty of sealant as well as those fine gaskets, gets leaky at that back end..
Click to expand...

Loctite, safety wire, sealant, CHECK!
As far as torquing them, unless I'm working on an engine, tight is tight and too tight is two pieces..
Didn't have safety wire pliers but wish I did the whole time doing it.
Didn't have the engine and trans in yet and the trans is mounted on the motor so it wasn't too bad..
 
CSArno said:
Thanks John, I'll swing by the John Deere dealer tomorrow and pick up some corn head grease. That seems to be popular with everyone.
The splined end of the driveshaft doesn't stick out past the bell any. It's in from the end of the bell about 1/32.
Can you tell from the splined end if the drive shaft is hollow or solid?

Chris
Click to expand...

You should also pump some JDCHG into the zerk fitting on the bottom half clam shell cover after everything is bolted in place. I usually give this fitting a couple shots of grease at every oil change.
The splined end of the driveshaft on the U joint end should be slightly subflush to the TT bell flange. About 1/32" - 1/16" should work ok. You can't tell if the driveshaft is hollow/tubular vs. solid by just looking at the splined end that's exposed. You would have to remove the bolts on the banjo end and slide the TT down far enough to see the driveshaft. '35 passenger cars and light commercial vehicles came from the factory with hollow/tubular driveshafts. If you have a solid DS, a previous owner made that change.
 
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