My new T

S

shaun

Junior Member
Hi I am new here a this is my first T.
She has been sat in a shed for years, till the shed sat on her. I got her yesterday. The car is very unmolested. I intend to focus's on the mechanics, I don't have a lot of money but lots of time and enthusiasm, I want to keep the car as original as possible. Any thoughts on the car would be great, I am in Mena Arkansas anybody close to me. I am looking for a pair of front wheels any body have any. I dont mind how rusty but need to be (Cheap )
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Nice find. People often look for the disc wheels. Don't just scrap them. If you're looking for people in your area you came to the right place. Look for a club in your area too. Is the motor loose. Looking like a '26 or '27. Look for serial number above the water inlet pipe. We'll be able to tell you for sure what year it is. The number should also be on the frame on it on the passengers side. Congratulations!!
 
Shaun, it looks like a good 1927 touring. Just looking at the pictures, the sheet metal looks good.
There is a swap meet starting on the 15h of this month in Chickasha Ok. It is called a pre-45 swap meet and there will be wheels there. 26/27 had optional 21" wire wheels which require matching hubs. A lot of fair priced T parts show up there. You are not that far away, it might be worth the trip if you have the time.
PS The swap meet officially starts on 15 th, but Wednesday, the 14 th is a very heavy trade day in the parking lot next to the swap meet grounds.
 
The engine has a '25 water neck and seperate fan. Look at the trans cover for two bolts into the back of the block... 26-27 only. ws
 
garrisonm89@yahoo.com said:
Nice find. People often look for the disc wheels. Don't just scrap them. If you're looking for people in your area you came to the right place. Look for a club in your area too. Is the motor loose. Looking like a '26 or '27. Look for serial number above the water inlet pipe. We'll be able to tell you for sure what year it is. The number should also be on the frame on it on the passengers side. Congratulations!!
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Hi yes I will try and save the disc wheel although they were the wrong stud pattern and whoever put them on a long time ago, only had a hammer, and some bolts, The engine is free, I removed the plugs, and put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the bores. I will start to try and date the car today from the tips I have been given, it has a vaporizer carburetor were they only fitted for one year?
 
I agree Jack, but for the sake of the new owner here...

They started that actually in July or August of '25. My '26 motor was an August baby LOL. If I saw a '25 car with the "improved" block, that would warrant further investigation. If I saw a 26 or 27 car with an early style block I would figure its been replaced. The blocks themselves (early/later) are apples and oranges, but I really prefer the oranges. Those early motors with the small brake drums,pedals, and other "pre improved" parts just seem sooo antique to me! The other issue is the carb you have. It was available in the 26-7 (and some earlier) models but used SOLEY in 1927 with no control rod hole through the valve cover as was used on all the updraft carbs.
This reminds me of when U.S. mfgrs. went to dual master cylinder brakes, lighting, and a myriad of other safety devices in 1967 after FMVSS was instituted. I still wouldnt hesitate to own another 1962 Impala SS 409, but it would still be thought of as an antique... gotta get some coffee in me! :eek: ws

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Hi Thanks for the pictures that was a great help.
Yes I have the two bolts in the picture, The engine number is 10852955, I can not make out the frame Number, I cant see the rod from the Valve cover to the vaporizer but there is a hole.

I have included some pictures, interesting way to fit the wrong wheels, and the rear wheel has not one stud left in it, but seems to be holding tight, I wonder how many dusty miles she did like this.
 

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That engine number was issued in November 1924 ??

The front wheels are likely Chevrolet wheels mounted on wood spoke T hubs. Might the rear wheel be welded, maybe again to a wood spoke hub?
 
Your pic show the vapo control rod OVER the head behind the coil box. The N & NH carbs go through the block. The vapo throttle is in the horn at the top of the assembly along with the choke plate. The 10 xxx xxx number would no way be 1927 when the valve cover hole was eliminated, altho they kept the hole between cyls, 2 & 3. Just surmising... Therefore its an early improved motor with the latest carb, altho the vapo carbs were available earlier as well... Confused yet? Look at the throttle arm on the rod from the wheel. Its pinned on the rod. Now look down by the water neck and see if theres another pin hole for a lower throttle arm and maybe even an arm there as well. If so, it probably had a NH originally and this was installed later. No biggy either way... it is what it is!
The disc wheels are mounted on wood wheel hubs from the pics. The wire wheels take different hubs, and maybe ol' farmer joe welded these on to wood hubs as well... strange things happen over 80+ years... ws

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This is what was probably on yours when new. The vapo was added later as an accessory. It was standard OEM in 1927 tho...
 
1924 is really bizarre! I thought the first 2 back bolt blocks were made in mid 1925. Shaun verified it has the two bolts tho... A later block restamped at one point for a different earlier car then put in the 26?
Shaun.. there should be a number stamped on top of the frame rail on the passeneger side right inside the front door. ITS FAINT so youll really need to clean it well... wire brush and PB Blaster works. Its SUPPOSED to match the engine number but will not in your case. It WILL identify the date of manufacture anyway...
Yours actually looks like a 27 with the headlight cross bar, but has pre 26 spindles on the front axle... 26-7s were lowerd about 1-1/2 inches ws
 
Shaun, do you have the two bolts holding the top of the transmission cover to the block or just the holes in the cover and no threaded holes in the back of the block to screw bolts in the block??? The cover could be 26/26 and the block 1924. A 1924 block should not have the holds in the back of the block unless the engine number was stamped wrong for some reason.
 
Lots of info, I think I will try and take some better pictures, and post them, I wish I could see the frame number, I have a T frame with the number on so I know where to look but the top of this frame caught the weather, so I cant make out any numbers, I think the front wheels are Chevrolet wheels, I have a 20s Chevrolet front axle with the same wheels ,it would make sense that somebody made what ever wheels they could find fit when the wooden ones went bad, We still have many many miles of dirt roads here in Arkansas, I am sure that when this car was last used most of them were mud and holes, the rear hubs do have studs, its just that every one is sheared off, definitely have the bolts that have been mentioned between the gearbox and block, Thank you all for the interest yachtsmanbill that sure is a nice paint job on your engine.
 
I dont wanna bore the other guys that have been watching this build, but since youre new here I give you the Cooks tour...

This was a rolling chassis, built and then abandoned to some weather around 1970 Im guessing. Its all from parts, with a pre 26 frame and front axle, 26 motor and rear, with some really really nice wire wheels that my best friend helped me acquire!;)
Ive been through every component bolt by bolt so far, lowered the front and rear 5 inches, and I am now trying to concentrate on passenger accomodations.... ws

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shag was in but now its out!

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As of two days ago...
 
I am not sure that was 70s to get the total effect shag and all, its would only be possible with he help of some of the chemicals that were around in the 60s, But now the cars looks great, what type of body are you going to put on the car?
PS the driver sure had long legs
 
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Yeah! That was the first attempt at Hermans' Munstermobile! The oobject of this excersise is gonna be an open wheeled speedster. The biggest debate right now is to go with a coel or cowlless, and if the previous, how long? We both want a little protection from the wind and maybe a lower half only opening windshield.
Going to a swap meet in town today, then a stop at Retards for a chunk of plywood for the floor. We'll see how things measure up from there! ws
 
Well I have looked and looked all over very carefully but I cant find even the slightest sign of a frame number unless its under the cross member,?? anyway I have included some more pictures can anybody shed any light on that solder joint ??model t 006.jpg

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