My 1930 Model A

Art - I have the main power wire connected from the starter terminal and going to the terminal box on the firewall. Then the white wire from the terminal box down to the generator cutout. The dash wiring is connected as well.
 
If you have it wired correctly then check the connectors on each wire....the circuit is broken somewhere..
 

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Do you have a volt meter?

With the battery hooked up, you should have battery voltage at both lugs/thumbscrews on the junction box, when individually tested to ground, and the same voltage should be at the front lug of the cut-out, when tested to ground....

If you begin at where the battery cable connects to the starter, and test to ground, you should show battery voltage...then move to the passenger side lug on the junction box..then to the drivers side, then to the cut-out..all should read the same voltage..
 
I should have a volt meter. Still unpacking the garage so it may be hidden.

I spent a couple of quick minutes out at the garage when I got home and just connected the two wires from the amp meter together. I believe it is no good. The tail light worked perfectly (minus the sticky break switch).


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I worked on a 1931 with a sticking brake switch. The switch plunger rod was rubbing on the frame hole, so all I had to do is loosen the two mounting bolts and center the switch.

Very few ammeters actually fail to carry current, but I do see loose and corroded connections both on the meter studs and the terminal box studs.
 
I'm currently working on getting everything wired up. I found my volt meter and checked the voltage at all the locations that 1955cj5 said, and I'm getting 6.15V +/-. I even went so far as to check the wire ends and I'm getting the same readings there as well. That being said, the headlights and driving lights won't come on.

I put the bulbs in a separate pig tail and touched the wires to the post on the starter and grounded it and they work fine. But connected to the headlight wires is a no go.


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Cancel that. I finished rebuilding the headlight sockets and got everything hooked up and I have lights. The drivers light is noticeably dimmer than the passenger. But all 4 bulbs are working as designed. Now to troubleshoot the horn.


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If you have a lamp that is dim on one side only, the first thing I'd check is the ground for that socket.
A poor ground can make the current run through both filaments in series, which results in a dim light.
 
The headlamp socket is grounded through the spring and focus adjusting screw to the bucket. The bucket is grounded through the mounting bolt to the headlamp bar. The bar is grounded through the fender and mount to the frame. I've never cleaned the mounting points on my 28, but have applied grease to the threads, and the headlamps are well grounded.
 
Finally got a chance to go out and troubleshoot the lights. Got the headlight mounting bolts and inside the buckets cleaned up. The lights work great now.


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I took apart and cleaned and tested the horn. It works on the bench. I cleaned the contact at the end of the horn wire, and even took apart the horn button and cleaned that contact, but no luck when pressing the button. Any tips or ideas??


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My horn button didn't work well when I first bought my 28. This was due to non use for months or years, so I pressed the button and gave it a rolling action as I pressed it. This cleaned the contact area and made the horn work like it should.
 
Is it possible to remove the gas tank without having to remove the windshield? There's a lot of rust in the current tank and I decided to look at the extra tank that I got with the car and it looks super clean.


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Thanks Mike. I've read a lot of posts that talk about all the screws and clips for the chrome trim etc. but I haven't seen any that say for sure if it has to come out.


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