My 1930 Model A

lucky_stripe_garage said:
So looking through searches, pictures, and other sites I have to ask....

How many wires should be connected to the starter? From what I can tell it's just one that goes to the junction block on the firewall. Then a wire goes from there to the generator. Correct??

For some reason mine has two. One goes to the junction block. The second goes up by the generator.


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There should be one wire from the starter switch to the terminal box stud, then one wire from the other terminal box stud to the generator. You have a couple extra wires showing and I can't see where they go.

I see you have the DELUX drain **** with the large B for a handle.:D

I would remove the 2 starter switch nuts and wires, then install one nut, then the wires and the second nut. The way it is the battery cable can almost touch ground.
 
The red wire goes to the terminal box stud. The white wire goes up and is the loose wire by the generator in the second picture. The blue wire goes back to the tail light.


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You're guess is as good as mine on the blue wire. I removed it so I can route it correctly, as well as the white wire to nowhere.

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Does this look more correct?


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Well my lights won't be working for a little bit. Seems as though the light switch body broke when a previous owner had it. It was rigged together by someone. Well the tabs inside the housing broke off so it won't rotate the switch.

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I sure don't like the looks of your battery cable-it looks like a cheap 12v cable-As strange as it might seem, 6v cables must be much thicker and heavier than 12v cables. Your ground cable should be a wide woven strap,too.
 
Lucky Stripe, your adventure on this '30 brings back memories of myself bringing mine home on the trailer. I was like a dream come true. I'd ridden in Model A's as a child but had never driven one. Mine was a basket case, but 2-1/2 years later I had completely restored it and Miss Tillie is now a part of the family. I'm now teaching my 3 sons and 2 20 yr old grandsons how to drive it. Congratulations on your new family member.
 

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Tom Wesenberg said:
I would remove the plugs and pour some ATF down each cylinder, let it set for a bit, then hand crank the engine. If you can't hand crank it then I'd pull the head, otherwise I'd spin it over with the starter, then put the plugs back in and try to start it.

If you pull the head, the gasket may not need to be changed since it was never run and never retorqued. I'd spray both sides with Copper Coat and reuse it, but wouldn't pull the head unless there was a real need to.
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Never re-use a removed head gasket once it has been torqued down .
 
I plan on upgrading the battery cables while I'm working on all of the wiring. Just using what I had in place already for now.

Beautiful car bobpo1. I'm hoping to keep this one in the family for a long time. My grandfather and great grandfather were Ford guys and I caught the bug from them. I think they'd be proud of my car.

I ended up not having to remove the head. Pulled the plugs and was able to see that everything was "clean" and there was no debris inside.


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Since I'm waiting on $$ and parts to continue on my A, I have some time to do some reading. I think I still have another box in storage full. These also came with my purchase of the car. I believe I should have every issue from 1974 till 2012 maybe more.

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Never re-use a removed head gasket once it has been torqued down .
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Although it's not advised to re-use a head gasket, it can be and has been done. I was taught many years ago, when $s were short, to clean the gasket, head and block really good, inspect the gasket and if it's not damaged put it in the oven at 350º F for a 1/2 hour or so, remove and let it cool before installing. Have done that numerous times w/out problems.
Nowadays one could use the BBQ rather than the oven.
 
It's not a bad job. The first thing to do is slip the light switch cover onto the new harness, then snap the cover to the body and hook the boil wire over the switch to hold it in place. Then lay out the wires, and thread the new wires through the radiator shell holes. I like to stick the wires through the shell holes, then install the rubber hole grommets, then the conduits, then the plastic or bakelite insulators that hold the wire terminals. I like the stock arrangement, so if you splice inside the buckets, you'll have to figure out that part.
 
Don't worry Bill, I wont. I'm sure my grandfather would find a way to slap me from his grave if I did.

So I got the wires ran, roughly, through the car last night. The headlight wiring was messed with before and is badly cracked. That will be remedied before those are connected. Since I knew the wires for the taillight were in decent shape, I started there.

I connected the two wires to the brake light switch, and the two at the light. I connected the harness to the cutout on the generator. No luck. I tested the bulb and it works fine. So I disconnected the harness from the generator. When touching it directly to the starter, the taillight, and brake light work perfectly, (well almost, the brake light switch sticks a little).

So what am I missing?
 
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