Modern Distributors

Our Coupe came with the FSI distributor. We've had no trouble with it. I picked up a new FSI Zipper from an estate sale that needs to go back for a recurve so I can use it with my 7:1 Brierley head.
 
I swapped out the original for the FSI "Zipper" with the Flame Thrower coil and have never looked back. It makes driving much more enjoyable...particularly in mixed terrain. It looks almost identical to the original and even uses the copper spark plug lead strips.

Yes, but even FSI recommends to use RFI coil and ignition wire for longtevity as the stock plug leads emit to much radio frequency that may damage the module.

"Radio (RFI) Suppression Coil Wire ONLY: An electronic ignition is sensitive to RFI’s and EMI’s produced by the ignition system. Solid or Stranded core coil wires will introduce too much interference and damage the module. Copper strips are little antennas that throw out RFI’s and EMI’s, but if we use a RFI coil wire, we should get a long life out of the module, I just can’t honestly tell you it will last as long if you used a modern cap with RFI spark plug wires.If you want the most protection and reliability, then I suggest getting a modern cap and radio suppression wires."
 
Last edited:
Setting the timing on a FS distributor is the same as a conventional distributor. My FS Zipper distributor can be precisely set with a timing light. The FS distributor does not have the standard distributor locating/locking pin. This allows rotating it similar to the way most conventional distributors are timed. Placing a TDC mark on the front pulley and referencing it to a pointer allows using a timing light to set the timing. I have a Nurex timing grid that is used to precsely locate and set the desired degree of advance. Once this is set the common process of replacing points, setting gaps, replacing condensers and resetting the timing all disappear.
 
Synchro, what initial timing, total timing, and how much retard in the vacuum side and what compression ratio are you running on your Burtz. Thanks.

I can answer only part of that question now - I've forgotten too much.
Max advance is 22° with a 6:1 head. Sorry, I don't remember what they did re vacuum. I pretty much left it to them.
 
I have ran the F.S.I. and it worked quite well, I also modified a dist., from a 1980 Honda 1.9 Liter, both worked well.
 
How do you set the timing on the model A with the FS Distributor?

I use my timing light. I set to about 8 advanced. In order to make that work you need the Nurex timing dial installed (or some equivalent to it), and you need to mark TDC on your crank pulley.
 
The vacuum part of the distributor is used to slightly retard the spark when you jump in the throttle and the vacuum decreases. The timing needs to be slightly retarded when the engine is under load. With the manual distributor one or two clicks up on the ignition lever is all that is needed.
 
Synchro, thanks. I am running mine at around 25-26 degrees with the Snyder's 6 to 1 head. I think that is too much so yours at 22 degrees is what I am going to try. I am running a Mallory single point distributor that can be adjusted for advance internally. The Lucas 25d I have converted I limited the vacuum advance and retard to just 2-3 degrees. Under light load, high rpm, high vacuum it can add a few degrees for economy, under heavy load it will drop the timing back.
 
Back
Top