Model T Distributor

Deco 1927

Deco 1927

Junior Member
I heard of people using a modern distributor in a Model T. What modifications need to be done, and what type of distributor will I need? I'm still running coil boxes in my 27 Ford.
 
The distributor you are looking for is already set up for a Model T. Check with either Langs' or Snyders on line and they will have what your need. They have a VW dist. head and points an condenser. You will need a coil to go with it. I have one on mine and they work fine.
 
Google is your friend. google Ford Model T distributor or MTFCA.com; distributor or mtfca; distributor. There is a ton ( :) ) of information on the web that will cover both sides of the distributor debate and what has been or is current in the market.
 
If the car is still running on magneto why not just fix the problems.
Send coils to Ron Patterson for repair.
Replace coil box innards with new ones from Fun Projects.
Replace timer with one from TW Timers.
I have done all of the above to my '27 touring and with a pretty much worn out engine it will run at 45 MPH for miles on end.
Yours might not need all of this though.
 
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My 2c worth: There is very little to be gained by converting to a distributor. I just love to hear the buzz when I turn on the ignition and the zip zip zip as I drive down the road. That's what makes it a model T.
 
fordwife said:
My 2c worth: There is very little to be gained by converting to a distributor. I just love to hear the buzz when I turn on the ignition and the zip zip zip as I drive down the road. That's what makes it a model T.
Click to expand...

I agree totally. I went to a distributor because my magneto was shot and it was cost effective to use a distributor. I miss the sound of the buzz.
 
The only time I really hear the coils is at idle with the coil box lid on or off and if you have a 26/27 with coil box under the hood with its top on, not really at all. On one had yes coils is part of the package but on the other hand there is just as much fun in driving an "OLD CAR" and 99% of the non T people don't know or care.
 
There is another alternative,
John Stoltz of "Model T Ranch", Texas, makes a distributor with a difference that's worth a look. I've been running one for 13 years now, without fault.
http://modeltranch.com/index.asp
Cheers,
Rob
 

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The guys are right. If the mag's OK, (even if it's not and your running on a battery), it'd be cheaper to get the coil system working. There's no power/performance gain by switching. Nothing against distributor's on a T at all it's just that it's $ tossed out if you have a complete coil system that just needs tuning. If you're capable of doing the distributor conversion on your own you're surely capable of tuning the existing coil system. Replacing capacitor's etc. The only thing you couldn't do is HCCT the coils which is necessary but you might find someone near by with an HCCT or Strobo Spark to help you out.
 
OR if you wish to hop up the engine on a rebuild and remove some weight from the flywheel, like all the magnets etc. Add some light weight oil slappers a aluminum head , pistons and a Stipes camshaft etc.

Then a distributor is needed.

However many of the offers ( including the old Texas T) only offer manual advance with the distributor fly weights welded.

The Texas T drive add on is perfect in all ways but i would suggest a fully mechanical Mallory distributor with automatic advance. When throttle is opened and rpm increases so does the advance.
 
I have to say the running on the mag if it that is not the problem is the better way to go. With a good magneto and coils you get much better performance out of the T engine by far. If the mag is bad better to get it off of the flywheel as mentioned above.
 
I just worked on a '26 T that had one of those last month. The rotor had shattered because the fan belt was rubbing hard all the time on the cap. Not one of John's best ideas. We converted the car back to stock ignition. It runs great now. Fortunately the owner had saved all the original parts so it cost very little to make it right. That distributor kit was $290, not a great deal and very hard to work on without removing the radiator first.


Sundiesel said:
There is another alternative,
John Stoltz of "Model T Ranch", Texas, makes a distributor with a difference that's worth a look. I've been running one for 13 years now, without fault.
http://modeltranch.com/index.asp
Cheers,
Rob
Click to expand...
 
The Stoltz distributor has an idler wheel to prevent the belt from rubbing on the cap. If not adjusted right, it will rub a hole in the cap, I know that from experience. Once I found the problem, I corrected it. You are 100% correct about the radiator needing to be pulled to work on the distributor. It is a considerable drawback.
 
This particular car is a 1926 roadster with the large lower pulley. The idler was in place and adjusted as tight as it could possibly go and the belt still rubbed hard on the distributor cap. I can see that the setup would probably work OK on an earlier T with the small crank pulley. In this case there was no way to make it not hit the distributor. The cap eventually got melted by the heat of the friction, causing the rotor to catch on one of the contacts, breaking the rotor. Still, no reason for it as all the original components were working fine.

29spcoupe said:
The Stoltz distributor has an idler wheel to prevent the belt from rubbing on the cap. If not adjusted right, it will rub a hole in the cap, I know that from experience. Once I found the problem, I corrected it. You are 100% correct about the radiator needing to be pulled to work on the distributor. It is a considerable drawback.
Click to expand...
 
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