Model AA Dump or '46 One Ton Dump

[1930AADUMP]

A couple of things to know, It has a Model A radiator not a AA and with those
big front tires (look like 6.50 or 7.00) they will probably hit the front brake rods
when turning. The truck looks like a good start, I like it.

Bob,

Please elaborate. I saw him drive and run it so would this be obvious? He does have another radiator for it but it leaks.

 

[pat in Santa Cruz]

31 Ford car radiator shell, incorrect horn, 30 front wheels, 31 rear wheels, sealed beam headlights, possibly car headlights. AA should be painted steel buckets, not stainless.but in general a good looking truck.

The tires on the chevy are too big too: it has hydraulic brakes , which on an old vehicle almost always need attention and thats not cheap. It appears the frame has been shortened, giving it a disproportionate look.

The AA looks better all around. I think you'll have the AA up and running sooner and less expensively. Correcting the details to what should be found on an AA built on whichever date you (or we) determine it was assembled, is the fun part.

 

[pat in Santa Cruz]

An original AA radiator has a thicker core, with a heavier tank bracket. The correct shell is not stainless with the exception of certain deluxe 31 AA's. The correct shell has a straight line across the top, not a widows peak. If he has any of the original radiator parts, get 'em. The radiator can be re cored to the original tank. Unless you are hauling a heavy load, the car radiator will cool fine if the core is good and clean.

A couple of things to know, It has a Model A radiator not a AA and with those
big front tires (look like 6.50 or 7.00) they will probably hit the front brake rods
when turning. The truck looks like a good start, I like it.

Bob,

Please elaborate. I saw him drive and run it so would this be obvious? He does have another radiator for it but it leaks.

 

[Bob C]

The AA radiator is thicker, has four rows and the shell is straight across the top.

 

[1930AADUMP]

Pat, Thanks for all the information. I know absolutely nothing about these trucks less what I have read to date. I have purchased the truck but it will be a couple of weeks before I get her home. I have a few more pictures. Yes, this will be a family project over the course of many years to get her as close to original as time and dollars allow. The rear gate and another radiator go with the truck. Young and busy family of six so resources are limited. All comments and critiques are welcomed. I want to learn as much as I can. The previous owners were unsure of the exact year. It was advertised as a '30. We will use the truck as is for now. Thanks for all the help thus far.

 

[Purdy Swoft]

Actually the floorboards for the 1930 AA are a bit different. I got the measurements from AA wizzard and cut my own for the customer. I can't think of the guy's name at the moment but he is or at least was the head of the AA club as I recall.

Neil Wilson is the AA guy to contact.

I had an April 1930 AA The opening for the gear shifh has to be bigger to clear the larger 4 speed transmission top and tower There was a metal panel that covered the area with a hole for the lever. I got this panel from Steve at Berts. that was back in 1990. Hope this part is still available.

 

[1930AADUMP]

Is there a part number for that plate? I have a notebook at the ready for any part numbers I acquire.

 

[Purdy Swoft]

I'm sure that it does. I don't know the part number. call Berts tuesday, they are closed on mondays. 800-321-1931 . Berts has the largest collection of original and nos model A and AA parts in the world, probably.

 

[Bob C]

This is the plate with the cut out for the PTO handle.

Bob

 

[pat in Santa Cruz]

The only way to really accurately determine the year is via the chassis number, which is inaccessible unless you remove the cab. The number on the registration, if it is the original engine number, will tell as well. If the original engine is in there, that number will also tell. But engines get swapped. If the nose piece of the splash apron is spot welded to the fender, then that is a 30 fender. If the nose piece is bolted, so the fender can be removed without lifting the cab, its a 31. Maybe...after all these years things get mixed . Additionally, an early 31 would have any left over 30 parts on it. The one wheel you have on the drivers front is a 30 wheel. The others with the ribbed hub are 31. The 30 wheels cracked and were often replaced. Also, when using dual wheels, often using 31 wheels allowed for larger tires due to the extra space created by the recessed wheel design of the 31 style wheel.

Its a pretty decent truck to start with. Get it running and enjoy it. Don't tear it apart thinking you will restore it. Its not uncommon for a new owner to get excited about restoring something and tearing it apart, only to find a day's work taking a truck apart requires many, many years to reassemble. Often the project sits in pieces for 40 years after that until its sold as a basket case. If you want to restore it, do it in baby steps so you can enjoy it in between steps..

 

[Purdy Swoft]

The truck would probably have been made after june. The 29 style cab was used until june or through june. I had an april 30 AA here is a pic

 

[1930AADUMP]

I have no plans to tear anything apart any time soon. When I get the truck home, the first thing I need to address is the carburetor. It was spitting out a fair amount of gas from the intake. I think a rebuild is in order. Otherwise it runs, drives, lights work and horn works (albeit wrong and sounds a little like it is dying). The dump works as well. A good work truck to start us off. I will see what numbers I can find on the truck when it is home.

 

[mhsprecher]

Very exciting. I am sure you will have a great time with it.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

You might have a sticking valve if it's spitting back through the carb.
Try a can of Sea Foam in the oil and another can in the gas.

If you have a vacuum gauge connected to the intake port, a sticking valve will show as needle flutter.