Model A still wont start

Ok so I went through and did what Terry said.,with keyboff I have 6+ volts both sides of the coil. Than with key on at the points it will read anywhere up to about 1.2 but that's it. I have 6+ volts at fuse as well as at generator.
 
And just to verify I turned key on and turned car over and no spark. Also pulled plug and tried with points all back together and no spark. I unplugged where coil wire comes in distributer cap and I have 6+ volts there??
 
Pull the top plate off of the dist. and ck the wire that runs from the lower plate to the top plate...........................
Paul in CT
 
Eskildsm said:
Ok so I went through and did what Terry said.,with keyboff I have 6+ volts both sides of the coil. Than with key on at the points it will read anywhere up to about 1.2 but that's it. I have 6+ volts at fuse as well as at generator.
Click to expand...

When u got 1.2 were the points open or closed..

Ck on the moveable arm
 
You cable from the ignition switch may be screwed in too far at the dist. It can short out right at the end and is hard to find
 
I ckd wire that run from bottom to top plate-- points were open and I ckd on moveable side I also put piece paper in between points just to make sure the readings were pretty low or barely reading but if I moved it around I could get it to 1.2.-- now the car quit as I was driving it-- I took it out but it started to get hot-- it was low on anti freeze-- i brought it home topped it off with anti freeze than started it and drove about 1/4 mile and started down a hill and it quit!!??
 
Agreed on the 6 volts at moveable arm on points. Anyone have any ideas where I go from here. I have replaced the condenser but that's it??
 
If you don't have 6+ volts at the moveable arm when the points are open, you need to move upstream to find out why. I had that same problem with the engine quitting and finally got help here. When they directed me to the voltage at the points arm I started to get to the problem. Try turning the key off then back on. Does that change the voltage at the open points arm? In my case it would vary from 5 volts down to 1 volt each time I turned the switch. If yours stays at 1.2, check the voltage at each side of the switch to make sure you have 6 going in and 6 out. If that's ok, I would suspect the cable from the switch to the distributor. Let us know what you find and we can give you more help identifying the problem.
 
I think you all are getting it narrowed down to the distributer. If you have 6 volts at the end of the wire coming from the coil but only 1.2 at the movable arm then you are loosing voltage in the distributer. As Jackson said in post 26 the cable may be screwed in too far. Or possibly one of the insulators on the point assembly is to thin or cracked or the notorious wire is getting bad. It is somewhere between the end of the cable from the coil and the point arm.
 
As has been said, and you have the wiring diagram, keeping working thru the system to find the problem. Its doesn't make much difference which way you work from, but, just go from one wire to the next until the problem is found. It doesn't take long. The info has been given.

If there is only 1.2v at the open point arm, then work backwards until you find 6v. Then you found the problem.
 
If you have 6 volts at the end of the wire coming from the coil

I ment to say If you have 6 volts at the end of the wire coming from the switch to the distributer but only 1.2 at the movable arm then you are loosing voltage in the distributer. As Jackson said in post 26 the cable may be screwed in too far. Or possibly one of the insulators on the point assembly is to thin or cracked or the notorious wire is getting bad. It is somewhere between the end of the cable from the coil and the point arm.
 
Ok where did he say he had 6v at the end of the armored cable? Post 23 he says he has 6v fron the coil wire into the cap???
 
How do I find out if wire is grounding out inside armored cable. I only have small window of time to work on it after work so that's why it's next day before I am able to complete some of ideas you guy have. If i unscrew the armored cable from the distributer should I check for voltage there. I will recheck readings tomrow with let on and off as well as check for 6v going in and out of ignition which I think I have since I have 6 volts at end of coil wire where it goes into cap.
 
I'm sure this would be a lot easier for you all if I understood electrical better!! Have always hated electrical and avoided it as much as possible.
 
Perhaps dirty contacts inside the ignition switch, if the armored cable checks out ok. Or the switch contacts shorting out to the fuel tank.
 
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