Model A still wont start

E

Eskildsm

Member
Continuation from last week-- I took generatorvand cut out switch of my other running model A and still won't start. However it is not blowing the fuse now. I have power both sides back ammeter, power both side terminal box, power at generator. I am one man show so having hard time telling if im getting spark but don't think i am. If I pull wire off bottom of coil going to distributer and put test light in plug in it barely lights the test light -- very very dim. I have checked my brake switch rod and it moved back and forth fine. I have put in a new condenser as well. I'm thinking the coil might be bad even though it's putting out little power or enough to barely light the test light. Am I missing something ?? Also anyone know trick to turn car over while I'm under hood looking for spark in the points???
 
Just check for voltage [6v] at movable point arm when open. [Should be zero volts when points closed].

Take high tension lead [coil wire] out of distributor and place end 1/4" from a good ground.

Turn key on

Jump from open point arm to ground and look for high tension/coil wire spark.
 
Do you have a FULLY charged battery with good ground?? Does the engine turn over?? Is the fuel shut-off on?? Is the key on??

Paul in CT
 
Just stand on the generator side of the engine, shove the start rod down onto the starter, it'll crank the engine. As others have said, check the points. DON'T replace any parts until you troubleshoot the problem for sure. Check for six volts on point arm when points open, 0volts when points closed.
 
Eskildsm said:
Battery charged -- key on-- fuel on-- engine turns over fine but doesn't start!!
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Well, why doesn't it start ? Its either fire or fuel related. It takes 10 minutes to check #2. If you don't get spark then, its fire related. Then work back from the points to get voltage.

If you do get spark after checking #2 and if the ignition timing is correct, then your problem is probably fuel related.
 
135064


This may help;

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=704608&postcount=6
 
The pop out switch you guys are talking about is the brake one correct?? Any way to test it or take it out of equation. Also car turns over great but charged battery overnight and it pegged out when hooked up but only charged about 1/2 way in 12 hrs. Battery is only 6 months old??
 
The ignition switch is the pop-out, if so equipped. The brake light switch has nothing to do with the ignition circuit, or, should have nothing to do with it. The brake switch is either on the transmission or cross member defending on year.


Just check as previously mentioned and the problem should be found fairly easily. The diagram Mike provided will be helpful.
 
It is not the pop out type ignition switch and I found the pop out switch under floorboard next to brake rod--it moves in and out freely??
 
I think you're looking at the brake switch. The pop out we are talking about is the switch that your key goes. It doesn't matter which type you have for now to do the troubleshooting. Do as post #2 says. Then we can help you after you check the voltage at the points. Make sure your battery is showing 6.3 or 6.4 volts, then check at the points arm.
 
Pop out is the original style switch for the ignition on the dash, it feeds voltage to the distributor. Forget the brake switch, not related and not on the diagram on Mikes post #9. Diagnosis is the same if you have an aftermarket ign. switch, see post #2.
 
Eskildsm said:
It is not the pop out type ignition switch and I found the pop out switch under floorboard next to brake rod--it moves in and out freely??
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Many original type ignition switches have been changed to a more normal type switch, apparently thats what you have. Make sure the connectors are not grounding to the fuel tank.

The 'pop-out' switch you found under the floorboards is, as mentioned, the brake switch and should have nothing to do with your problem.
 
Air, fuel, and ignition! To which I add Timing! You can have all three, but without timing it ain't gonna start. I'm a one man show too. So I use the starter rod. Just push it down with your right hand. Do you have a six volt "Trouble light"? Or a volt meter? Assuming you do have one or the other. Key off, check both sides of the coil (Primary side, not secondary) It should read 6V or light the light on both sides with the key OFF. It sounded strange to me but thats how they are. OK? Go on to the distributor. Insulate the points , put a corner of a business card between them. with the key ON, is the arm hot? It should be. Another troubleshooting "tool" I use is a can of starter fluid. If it starts on starter fluid, it's a gas problem. If it won't start on starter fluid, it's a ignition problem. Yes, The reproduction "Pop Out" switches can be troublesome. Put the key in the cylinder and shake all around and watch the ammeter. If it fluctuates, the switch is shorted. Good Luck!
Terry
 
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