Model A Oil Pan Installation Questions

Bud Man

Bud Man

Member
Well, my motor is back from the rebuilder, and its time to mount the oil pan and flywheel housing. Would really appreciate any input to some questions I have before I proceed.

1. The pan gaskets are cork. Is it better to use sealant on the engine or the pan side, or both? Or would you recommend just a small amount to tack the gasket to keep it positioned against the block?

2. Does the rear cork seal butt up against the gasket where it is cut to index into the seal groove, and am I correct to assume some sealant is used there at those junctures?

3. Rubber one-piece seal in front. Is that left alone, or is there sealant applied on front pan groove where the seal resides as additional leak insurance or does it just rely on the crush fit?

4. Is the gasket used between the block and the flywheel housing installed dry or is sealant used on it?

First A engine for me, and just trying to get it right. Tips much appreciated!

Bud
 
Hi Bud Man,


From my memories:


1: I used Aviation Permatex on the block and pan.
2: I put the pan gasket into the groove on the rear main and then trimmed the cork square strip that goes into the pan to fit tightly with no gap.
3: Never used the rubber seal just the rope seal soaked in oil and then place in the pan.
4: If you are referring to the paper gasket then dry.


Mike
 
37 Coupe said:
Very good instructions which I will try soon.Wonder if a good foolproof headgasket seal has also been detailed.
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Yes, I only use the copper head gasket and coat both sides with Copper Coat.


I'd seal the pan gasket to the block, then use a thin layer of grease between the pan and gasket, so it comes off clean and easy to adjust shims many miles later.
 
I do same as Tom. Prefer to use an anaerobic gasket sealer on the block side as my mechanic for my other vehicles suggested to me (skim coat gasket with my finger) - allows you time to reposition gasket if the gasket moves, and then grease on the pan side. Used very small amount non-permanent Loctite on pan bolts since they can loosen over time.


Did have very small drippage leak once, simply dropped pan, re-greased gasket and put pan back on. As Tom mentions, makes pan removable without having to replace the gasket every time you drop the pan. Additionally it is not a struggle to break the pan loose when both sides of the gasket is coated with something that is semi-permanent.


As the instructions mention, put down a piece of plastic,. I prefer to drop the pan, then let it sit overnight or a couple of days before continuing. Let the motor drip drain before getting under the motor.


Careful not to over tighten the pan bolts, especially if using cork gaskets. 1st time I saw a spec somewhere, spec did not mention it was for a paper gasket, and really over torqued - damaged the gasket, warped the pan, cause leaks. The spec in previous procedure should be good.
 
With cork, no sealer except a dab of silicone at the rear corner, I like the black stuff. I also prefer the stock 'dog turd' at the front, I have a few soaking in oil at all times. You will likely have to trim both the front and rear pieces, not too much! Gasket on first at the rear, then the side pieces. I also recommend straightening the pan surfaces by hammering them down with a block of wood or steel as a back-up. Don't over-tighten the bolts or the pan will no longer be straight, re-tighten after some hours of driving. Nice article by Gary Duff, he did nice work but went over to the dark-side and built V8's! Have fun!
 
Jim Brierley Nice article by Gary Duff said:
That’s funny! He does have a really nice 40 though. He built my engine 20 years ago, including the Babbitt. Never had the pan off. 36,000 miles so far.
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