Manifold Torque

Use a 6" box wrench and when it feels reasonably tight, quit.

Recheck the tightness when you oil the distributor every 500 miles.
 
I won't say what torque I use, or discussion will ensue & I might get banned. Whatever torque you decide to use, DO use a TORQUE WRENCH, as uniformity is important, especially if using the crush type copper gasket! Bill W.
 

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I'll agree with the others. Good and snug is all they need. Make sure the retainer washers are installed correctly. If you need a torque spec, then 30-35 lb/ft is about right. Be careful with the torque wrench,I'm not trying to insinuate anything, but, I see people almost daily use a torque wrench improperly.
 
Patrick L. said:
I'll agree with the others. Good and snug is all they need. Make sure the retainer washers are installed correctly. If you need a torque spec, then 30-35 lb/ft is about right. Be careful with the torque wrench,I'm not trying to insinuate anything, but, I see people almost daily use a torque wrench improperly.
Click to expand...

What are they doing wrong? Bring the torque up in steps, in the correct order. What am I missing?
 
Thanks to all. Someone I know told me that the torque was 45 to 50 lbs. I was thinking that was too high. :)

Thanks again

Warren
 
I just bought from Bratton's a new exhaust manifold. I got it to use with my "Simmons" Swan Manifold {intake} found on eBay;). The exhaust manifold instructions state: "Install nuts and torque to 45 pounds.":eek:
Varying the torque on each nut untill finished. The manifold looks to be a very good quality product and is at least made in Taiwan. The free China and not the communist one.:p I think I will follow these instructions. Oh'
and is says you "usually will need to retorque the manifold nuts again to 45 lbs. when everything is hot.":)

Bob-A:D
 
warren va said:
Thanks to all. Someone I know told me that the torque was 45 to 50 lbs. I was thinking that was too high. :)

Thanks again

Warren
Click to expand...
That is the published torque in the modern book. Ford did not use torque wrenches when the cars were built. They used different size tools. Longer handle more torque then a short handle for the same "feel".

I only use a torque wrench when it is critical to get the same nuts to the same value as head bolts for an example..
 
Phil said:
What are they doing wrong? Bring the torque up in steps, in the correct order. What am I missing?
Click to expand...


'30 covered it.
Plus, depending on the type wrench it'll differ. A beam style is pretty much fool proof. The 'clicker' type is different. Most folks don't back them off when done and don't 'exercise' them before using. I've seen way too many folks grab one, twist the handle, give it a tug and wonder why something broke.
Plus, I'm of the opinion that the purpose of the wrench is consistency and not total 'tonnage' which goes along with what '30 had said. And, increasing 'tonnage' in steps as you mentioned is good practice.
After awhile most folks can develop a pretty good 'feel' as their elbow becomes calibrated. But, there are folks that just can't seem to ever acquire that.
 
Hi Warren,

1. "Proper amount of torque?"

2. Good question, but what is the correct answer?

3. Depends on the size & strength of the person turning the wrench plus his past mechanical experience as to what is the difference between tight, tight-tight, & tight-tight-tight, & oops, so tight something broke.

4. For example, don't feel like the Lone Ranger. Knew an owner of a canning factory who packed some food products in jars. The biggest problem he said he had was to find several men who knew how much to tighten the caps on the jars -- some were so tight a normal housewife could never open the jar. Finally he invested in an adjustable torque mechanical device to tighten jars & never had complaints thereafter.

5. Just in case you need a torque "guess" for a start, Bratton's catalog on the inside cover suggests 25-30 foot-pounds, & that is, if your engine block's surface & both intake/exhaust manifold surfaces are dead flat.

6. If surfaces are not flat, too much pressure could occur on one (1) cast iron manifold ear & cause it to break.

7. This may be one reason why many concerned Model A owners are cautious to suggest a "definite" torque value because they cannot actually "see" what you have & what you are working with.

Just hope this helps to give you a clue on "how tight".
 
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Those of us that did it for a living learned real quick torque feel .

After you have to buy drill bits , ezy outs , taps , dies and spend hours and lose money on a job because you broke bolts , studs , stripped threads , etc , its a costly education .

Since torque wrenches were not used on the A , be careful tightening fasteners until you get the feel .

Remember you can allways tighten it more if needed , but when it goes ping , you cant go back .
 
remember were not building a mars rover or an atom smasher. were installing 4 nuts on a motor that was designed 80 + years ago
 
Mitch//pa said:
remember were not building a mars rover or an atom smasher. were installing 4 nuts on a motor that was designed 80 + years ago
Click to expand...

Maybe your not!!!
As soon as they build that bridge, I'm going to be the first to drive my A to the Moon!!!:D:D:D
 
Bob-A said:
I just bought from Bratton's a new exhaust manifold. I got it to use with my "Simmons" Swan Manifold {intake} found on eBay;). The exhaust manifold instructions state: "Install nuts and torque to 45 pounds.":eek:
Varying the torque on each nut untill finished. The manifold looks to be a very good quality product and is at least made in Taiwan. The free China and not the communist one.:p I think I will follow these instructions. Oh'
and is says you "usually will need to retorque the manifold nuts again to 45 lbs. when everything is hot.":)

Bob-A:D
Click to expand...

Hey Bob,
That Simmons swan manifold is a good find !!!!!!! There is a copy of an old advertisement for the Swan manifold on page 79 in the book Those wonderful unauthorized accessories for the model A Ford. It tells how the design removes vibration and adds smoothness and increased performance at all speeds. The flat top design better distributes the fuel to the cylinders. I hope you will post a picture when you get it hooked up. It should all work great with the Flame thrower coil.
 
When I was working at the airport, The guy I was helping told me to put the propeller on a plane, snug the six bolts. However, don't torque too tight. The specs called for 30 or 35 lbs, on the 3/8-24 bolts (IIRC). I was able to torque them to about 20 lbs with nothing more than a 3/8 rachet wrench. He had a torque wrench (and a A & P license) and finished the job without backing any of the bolts off. Our abilities to duplicate our efforts with a fair amount of precision are underestimated.
Terry
 
Hello Purdy,

Yeah man, I'm going to try and mount the "Swan manifold" with a Jim Adams rebuilt Zenith carb. some time next week. I've also got an Aires
muffler set-up to go with it. This weekend I'm painting the new exhaust manifold with cast-blast paint if the weather holds out. I picked up on the Simmons manifold on eBay a couple of months ago. I sweated bullets for a week praying nobody else would notice it:eek:....and they didn't!:p:)
With the Flame Thrower coil you turned me on to and now the "Swan
manifold" I bet I can give those new {for 1929} 6 cylinder OHV Chevrolets a run for their money..............LOL.;)

Bob-A:D

PS: I'll try and get a pic of the manifold once it's mounted and post it here if I can.
 
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