Mallory twin point distributor for 8BA

4

49r

Senior Member
I am thinking of replacing my original 8BA vacumn advance distributor with a new Mallory twin point distributor that I have. It has centrifugal advance weights with no vacumn advance.
What experience is there out there of using these?
In what ways (if any) are they an improvement on the original distributor?
Do they require any special setting up, or, being designed for the 8BA, are they ready to fit and go?
Any advice appreciated.
 
Good unit and you will notice the difference right away, its mechanical advance and dont need vacuum.
It may or may not have the right curve in it, check the timing with a light and at 2500 rpm.
Adjust timing on the pin and drive er.
Should function very well..
 
I am using one of those mechanical advance Mallory dual point distributors,but I bought the kit and converted it to electronic two years ago. No more condensor or points to worry about. Seems to work fine.
 

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I just bought one for my Dad for use in his 8BA. He is running one of those hateful Ch**y converted distributors. I can't wait to install this mallory unit because that Ch**y distributor is junk, much like most of their products,lol.
 
I don't think much of the Mallory distributor for this reason. It doesn't have a vacuum component in the advance curve. As Jim says they work Ok and are a deffinate improvement over the Load a matic. Under normal driving conditions we've found the engine produces more torque at WOT with 18-22 degrees advance, and best economy in cruise at 26-28 degs. Working with this type ignition system and a properly jetted carburetor you will realize more power and better economy.
Critizung the GM didtributor, means you have no idea how the ignition system works. Send it to Bubba and compair it to the Mallory. nuf said.
 
Ron, what I don't like is the little door on the GM distributor and the set screw used to adjust point gap. It is very difficult to access that set screw. Bubba is very good at distributors (he has done a two bolt crab for me, electronic) and I'm very pleased with his work. You guys know more about ignition and timing than me no doubt about that. It's just a preference I guess and I don't personally like the GM distributor design. I plan on converting the mallory to electronic as well. I have electronic ignition on my Model A, mustang and 39 pickup and love it. Some guys don't but that's just a matter of comfort and preference.
 
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I have two 8BA powered cars. One has a Chebbie conversion from Bubba the other has a "new" Mallory dual point, I think I got it from Speedway. The advance was not coming in at all. I sent it to Bubba and he fixed me up. has about 2000 miles on it and works great. I guess they might not be correct out of the box........
 
Ol' Ron said: It doesn't have a vacuum component in the advance curve.
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I agree based upon lots of personal experience with a converted GM that has BOTH centrifugal AND vacuum advance. The role of the vacuum advance for the flathead seems to be often misunderstood. The benefit is FUEL ECONOMY, not more power.

If these artificially bloated gas prices have no effect on your wallet, then I guess you don't need to learn about vacuum advance.
Ol' Ron said: Under normal driving conditions we've found the engine produces more torque at WOT with 18-22 degrees advance, and best economy in cruise at 26-28 degs.
Click to expand...

These are actual numbers road-tested in a 3300 pound car. We went through a dozen or more combinations and variations. Of course, each flathead is different, so you may have to tweak those numbers for your engine/car.

Ol' Ron said: Critizung the GM distributor, means you have no idea how the ignition system works. Send it to Bubba and compair it to the Mallory. nuf said.
Click to expand...

Too often, it seems, guys get Chevy conversions from someone who has little or no flathead experience, and it arrives making 36 degrees of mechanical advance and has the wrong springs in it. Without a doubt, this could produce terrible results.

However, set up right and adjusted right --- they are versatile reliable workhorses. I've used them with points, HEI, and now as a magnetic trigger for an MSD box.

They're all potentially good; the cast iron units are great.
 
Seth Swoboda said:
Ron, what I don't like is the little door on the GM distributor and the set screw used to adjust point gap. It is very difficult to access that set screw. Bubba is very good at distributors (he has done a two bolt crab for me, electronic) and I'm very pleased with his work. You guys know more about ignition and timing than me no doubt about that. It's just a preference I guess and I don't personally like the GM distributor design. I plan on converting the mallory to electronic as well. I have electronic ignition on my Model A, mustang and 39 pickup and love it. Some guys don't but that's just a matter of comfort and preference.
Click to expand...


Seth,

Quite a few guys dont like the chevrolet window and i cant say i blame them.
We have built a ton of different options.
The early chevrolet is cast iron and doesnt use a window cap, the chrysler distributor works very well also and is a solid ( smaller cap). In reality we can make any of them fit the flathead .
Its just the chevrolet allows us to easily machine for fit and the mechanical advance works very well.

We also make a new Model A ( mallory) unit with full centrifical advance..:)
 
Seth Swoboda said:
Ron, what I don't like is the little door on the GM distributor and the set screw used to adjust point gap. It is very difficult to access that set screw.
Click to expand...

If the Chevy set screw is hard to access thru the window, just proceed like every other side-mount distributor: remove the cap, set the points, and replace the cap.
But, having said that, I agree, it's mainly a matter of personal preference.
 
John R said:
If the Chevy set screw is hard to access thru the window, just proceed like every other side-mount distributor: remove the cap, set the points, and replace the cap.
Click to expand...
The BIG advantage to the little side window is you can set your points with the engine running using a dwell meter.
 
You can re-clock, for the lack of a better term, the distributer to move the window to a better position. The Chevy distibuters are real easy to get the engine to run decently with out a dwell meter. Turn the screw in until the engine sputters then back it out one turn. That will get the points real close to the right dwell setting.
X2 on sending that unit to Bubba to set the advance curves.
 
Bubba,
'if it makes spark, we do it' ; 'we also make dist for model A'...
Well, can you make a Model A distributor out of the large Chevy dist (one with the window)?
I once saw such dist made for four banger by a guy named Kong Jackson. Never did get a pic or close scrutiny, but wonder if YOU could make such?
 
hardtimes said:
Bubba,
'if it makes spark, we do it' ; 'we also make dist for model A'...
Well, can you make a Model A distributor out of the large Chevy dist (one with the window)?
I once saw such dist made for four banger by a guy named Kong Jackson. Never did get a pic or close scrutiny, but wonder if YOU could make such?
Click to expand...

Sure , i just happen to have one on the bench right now . Rotation is a issue and we have to use a early pontiac housing .....
Advance would work perfect...I will clean this one up and post a couple pics.
 
The new Mallory dual point comes with a pretty poor set of points and an even worse condensor. You'll notice the points don't squarely line up and they're built real flimsy and cheap.

Swap in a set of #2300 Eichlin points from Napa and you'll be glad you did. I went a step further and swapped in a Pertronix unit into the Mallory case. The points plate with the Eichlins is in the trunk in case the Pertronix ever fails. So far, about three years and no problems.
 
Installing a mallory dual pt on a '52 8ba with the only mod being a pair of stromberg 97's. What should the advance gap be (in thousands of an inch)?
 
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