Mallory Ignition

1939Deluxesedan

1939Deluxesedan

Member
I am doing a little planning here. I recently acquired a 39 Deluxe. I want to get a spark out of the ignition system. The previous owner installed a Mallory ignition, with a crab type distributor. I am a bit confused about positive ground. If I apply 12 volts from the positive battery post, and 12 volt negative to the coils respective positive and negative, I should get spark at the plugs when it spins over. Right?
I have a new set of Moroso plug wires, and the crimp tool. so I can feed them thru the tubes. I just haven't installed them yet. One solution would be to replace with a new system. I may do that. To be honest, trying to get a new one in the right spot, and finding TDC is a concern. I'm thinking a new coil and wires should be a good start, IF I can determine how the voltage should be connected. I don't know if this distributor is points, or solid state. I took the cap off. I didn't see points. Is the big resister to drop the voltage back to 6 volts for stock function?
Thanks
 

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Need to know what model Mallory distributor you have to determine voltage requirements. You really need to determine TDC. Do a search to determine the method.
 
if its a mallory lots of luck msd took them over and killed all the spares been looking for a recurve kit for mine for 3 years could be cheaper /smarter move to change out i wont be repairing mine if it has a major failure dont get me wrong it works well and small parts are avalible after market but its days are numbered we just dont know how many are left check the part no on the tag should give you all the info you need
 
Not sure what you are trying to do, but looks like you have some things messed up. It is not common to switch to 12v and use a positive ground. It is possible, but seems like that would make things a lot more difficult than they need to be. Secondly, a points distributor doesn't care what the voltage is 6v or 12v. If it is an electronic pickup distributor, that is a different matter, voltage does matter. Now, how do you know if distributor is 6v or 12v? The coil can be the 6v one with an added ballast resistor or a 12v coil that doesn't require a resistor.

Few questions, who started the 12v conversion? If not you, how do you know which components were changed over and which ones have not? Think you need to sort some things out and go through a few steps one at a time.
 
OK, look a little closer at the photos you posted, a ballast resistor has already been added. I would assume however did it know to change the polarity on the battery. But start there, negative post to ground and positive post to the starter solenoid. With the polarity correct (negative ground 12v) the wire from the ignition switch goes to the (+) terminal on the coil. The (-) terminal on the coil goes the the points/condenser on the distributor. I would have to look at a Mallory wiring diagram for the pickup wiring, but I would be faily sure it requires a (+) input.

OK, again assuming this wiring diagram is close,

Red wire to 12v source
Green wire to coil (-) terminal
Brown wire to ground

Need someone with older Mallory experience to verify.
 

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JSeery said:
Not sure what you are trying to do, but looks like you have some things messed up. It is not common to switch to 12v and use a positive ground. It is possible, but seems like that would make things a lot more difficult than they need to be. Secondly, a points distributor doesn't care what the voltage is 6v or 12v. If it is an electronic pickup distributor, that is a different matter, voltage does matter. Now, how do you know if distributor is 6v or 12v? The coil can be the 6v one with an added ballast resistor or a 12v coil that doesn't require a resistor.

Few questions, who started the 12v conversion? If not you, how do you know which components were changed over and which ones have not? Think you need to sort some things out and go through a few steps one at a time.
Click to expand...

The guy I got the car from got it when the owner before him died. He let it sit up for years. It had an old 12 volt battery in it when I got it. My goal is to condemn or resurrect this old system. What I am hearing is that replacement might be better. There is an ID number on the distributor. I will post it tomorrow. As far as finding TDC, there would be 2 places where number one would be on top, not being able to "see" the lifter/rocker position, it would have to be one or the other, each 180 degrees apart. Is that right? (forgive my ignorance on the flathead, I am learning)
 
I see red wire to distributor is after the resistor, so will be providing something less than 12V.
 
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Ive got two mallorys , one points and one electronic. Both bought new . Im only using the point one as its easier . Id leave it as is . Maybe replce the condenser . The dist can only go on one way .
First chrck the headlights and tail lights , just to see if it wasin fact converted . Ive come across many 6v cars with 12 volt batteries in them , just because the young mechanic had no idea 6 volt was used / needed . Or it was all they had available . If the bulbs are in fact 12 volt it would most likely be neg ground .
Remove plugs , make sure no gas is leaking , take a jumper wire from battery to the resistor ( opposite side of the one wired to the dist ) .
Crank , check for spark . Have a plug attacked to the wire and the base of blug grounded . It should be all thats needed to verify ign .
HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEAR BY !
Good luck
 
It looks like Jrseey has got it . I see a red ,purple ?, green wires coming from your dist , so forget what i said , mine was for points .
 
1939Deluxesedan said:
The guy I got the car from got it when the owner before him died. He let it sit up for years. It had an old 12 volt battery in it when I got it. My goal is to condemn or resurrect this old system. What I am hearing is that replacement might be better. There is an ID number on the distributor. I will post it tomorrow. As far as finding TDC, there would be 2 places where number one would be on top, not being able to "see" the lifter/rocker position, it would have to be one or the other, each 180 degrees apart. Is that right? (forgive my ignorance on the flathead, I am learning)
Click to expand...

Locating TDC is fairly simple. First you have to set up a pointer near the crankshaft pully. You remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the engine over. Then you place something the the #1 cylinder that will fit between the piston and the cylinder head to act as a stop. It can be anything soft enough to not damage anything (large zip-tie end works). Now turn the engine over until the piston is against the stop (go slow, don't smash into it!). Make a mark on the crankshaft pulley that lines up with the point you installed. Now reverse the engine rotation until the piston again contacts the stop and mark that position. TDC is half-way between the two marks.

It is best to repeat the process several times to be sure you are getting consistent results. Also, but sure you understand Ford firing order, 1-2-3-4 on the right bank (passenger side) and 5-6-7-8 on the left bank (drivers side). So, number 1 is the cylinder closest to the front of the engine on the right (passenger) side.

Mart here on the Barn has a video on location TDC if you need more information.
 
Ggmac said:
It looks like Jrseey has got it . I see a red ,purple ?, green wires coming from your dist , so forget what i said , mine was for points .
Click to expand...

So mine is the solid state model?

I looked carefully. All I can find is the words "Mallory" but no number
 

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Headlights are 6 volts. Does that mean its a 6 volt system, or that the previous owner never finished. Other things look left incomplete. I know he had a collection. Several old coupes. I don't know.
 
Well, the headlights were not changed, you now know that. The coil appears to have a ballast resistor, so ok there. Need to see if you can figure out what the generator is. Next would be the other bulbs, such as tail lights, dash lights, etc. Dash lights and gauges could be using a voltage drop resistor. Just the way project cars are, you have to check out everything.
 
1939Deluxesedan said:
So mine is the solid state model?

I looked carefully. All I can find is the words "Mallory" but no number
Click to expand...
Take the cap off and take a pic . I can tell you the part number . I bought a replacement module ( the part that goes bad ) on ebay for $19 dollars and it is working fine . I used it in the flat head dist like yours ,then i found the mallory point dist . I replaced the electronic , with the point dist , removed the $19 module and installed it in an other mallory . Its still running in that dist 9 months now . $19 is a heck of a lot cheaper than $70+ for a name brand .
I think someone just used what they had , as far as battery’s go . Or they had the mallory that was 12 volt and installed the 12 v battery .
Either way , as Jseery says , everything needs to be checked . Checke the voltage regulator, see if its 6 or 12 volt . It may be easier to source a original dissy and stay 6 volt .
More pics would help .
Gary
 
The headlights have a pigtail wire hanging from each of them. Tail light assembly is totally missing. It has the old generator. Pretty sad shape, There are replacement units available, but they're expensive, and only optic triggered ones, no points systems, not that I can find. My overall goal is to determine if the motor runs. I'm pretty sure its original. Stock is the way to go. Otherwise, I could make it a hot rod, or some other modified version, but it's not my first choice. Its a convertible, so original as I can afford. Do many of you guys run the original distributors? I guess that would be harder to get ahold of then the solid state jobbers. If I can prove she runs, I can start putting money into other arias. But if not, I will need to adjust my plans.
Where is the replacement module? What does it look like?
I believe I can take some pics of the cap removed. What else would you you like to see?
Thank you Ggmac, and the rest of you kind gentlmen....
 
Looks like you came to the right place. Just go slow and ask a lot of questions before you make any major decisions. There are a lot of very knowable folks here especially on original vehicles. Doesn't sound like it would be very difficult to get it back to stock 6v positive ground. Just need to work your way through what you have. Photos always help.
 
JSeery said:
Looks like you came to the right place. Just go slow and ask a lot of questions before you make any major decisions. There are a lot of very knowable folks here especially on original vehicles. Doesn't sound like it would be very difficult to get it back to stock 6v positive ground. Just need to work your way through what you have. Photos always help.
Click to expand...

Here are some pictures...DSC_0004.jpg

DSC_0006.jpg

DSC_0010.jpg

DSC_0011.jpg
Note the regulator has a wire that is not attached. Generator is in sad shape. There is a rotor button in the distributor. Does that mean a points system?
Thanks!
 
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