Lock Nut or Castellated?
- Thread starter 1955cj5
- Start date
redmodelt
Well-known member
I used those on a Model T with no issues. They are a one use nut so use regular nut when fitting the rods then use those for final fit up. They are very snug when putting on so can affect the torque. Because of how tight they went on I did go back to castellated nuts when I took up the bearings. 35-40 foot pounds is what I use for both T and A.
Pete
BANNED
Try an auto parts store.
Boston Bruce
Senior Member
Google can be you friend...
1955cj5
Well-known member
OK found them....$30 for a pack of 50..I need 8....maybe I'll stick with the cotter pins..
http://www.amkproducts.com/bulk3.asp?part=B-10060
http://www.amkproducts.com/bulk3.asp?part=B-10060
Chuck Sea/Tac
Well-known member
I know a guy who uses regular nuts, with pal nuts most of his engines have upwards of 40,000 miles, nothing has come loose. That includes mine at 27,000 and no overdrive.
Pete
BANNED
One of his came loose on an engine I had and caused a super blowup. Parts all over the street.
He didn't build the engine for me though. I got it second hand.
Chuck Sea/Tac
Well-known member
Yah Pete, but I know you. How many rpm were you turning?
1955cj5
Well-known member
I've called Tacoma Screw, Fastenal and Napa auto..I did not think it was worth calling O'reillys...no one has them or knows where I might find them...
Might Marsden nuts be known by another name?
Flex-Loc maybe?
McMaster-Carr does not have them, nor Grainger....
Might Marsden nuts be known by another name?
Flex-Loc maybe?
McMaster-Carr does not have them, nor Grainger....
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J Witt
Well-known member
The lock nuts you showed in your original post should work fine. Those work by punching the sides of the nut and slightly distorting to top threads to create friction.
If the nuts are correctly torqued, they likely would never come loose anyway.
The cotter pins just keep the nut from rattling around in the crankcase while the loose rod cap pounds itself to pieces.
Many modern cars use a one-time stretch bolt and correct torque, with no locking system at all. To make that work, however, the fasteners are part of a designed system that includes the material of the rod and cap. I wouldn't do this on a Model A with a stack of shims between the cap and the rod.
John
If the nuts are correctly torqued, they likely would never come loose anyway.
The cotter pins just keep the nut from rattling around in the crankcase while the loose rod cap pounds itself to pieces.
Many modern cars use a one-time stretch bolt and correct torque, with no locking system at all. To make that work, however, the fasteners are part of a designed system that includes the material of the rod and cap. I wouldn't do this on a Model A with a stack of shims between the cap and the rod.
John
Kohnke Rebabbitting
Well-known member
1955cj5
Well-known member
Mike,
I looked at aircraft spruce but did not see the size, but I will look again.
It seems there are lots of options....the Marsden being sort of elusive..
Kohnke Rebabbitting
Well-known member
If you want to ruin threads, use the punched nuts.
There is nothing wrong with Castall nuts, and keys. They will never come loose if done right, as long as the threads on the bolt, and nuts are in good condition.
Torque to 40 Foot Pounds, and then align Key hole if need be.
Herm.
There is nothing wrong with Castall nuts, and keys. They will never come loose if done right, as long as the threads on the bolt, and nuts are in good condition.
Torque to 40 Foot Pounds, and then align Key hole if need be.
Herm.
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1955cj5
Well-known member
So I guess that answers the original question, castellated or lock...
I'll used the castellated........
Aircraft spruce has the others, but for 8 rod nuts and 6 main bearing plus shipping it's nearly $30...
