It's never simple....

L

lucky_stripe_garage

Senior Member
So I was worried about a bad head gasket. When running about 35-40mph the water would foam. Since I know the previous owner had rebuilt the engine (back in 1975) and ran it less than 50 miles I thought I'd start with re-torquing the head. Started at 35lbs, torqued 13 with no issues, Number 14 decided it was too much and snapped. Guess it was time to change the gasket anyways.

Not wanting to have the issue again decided it would be best to replace all the studs while the head was off. Bought a tool from the local parts store, got two studs off and snapped another before the tool broke. Exchanged the tool and had the same results. Had to step away for a few days before too much frustration set in. 4 studs removed, 3 studs snapped, 7 studs soaking with penetrating oil.

Took the stud remover back and exchanged for a different style yesterday. 3 studs removed with no issues. Put the tool on the passenger side water neck stud ensured that both valves were closed on cylinder 1, but apparently it wasn't seated all the way. The tool caught the edge of the valve and seems to have bent the stud. Now I get to do even more engine work.
78b3c1e3f7e5ea3431aa74c0bdc41944.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Since all the valves look nice and burnt, besides the installation, is there any difference in performance between the modern valves and original style valves?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Heat the studs up very hot and take a plumbers candle and touch it to where the threads are. It will draw in and make them easier to remove.
 
lucky_stripe_garage said:
Since all the valves look nice and burnt, besides the installation, is there any difference in performance between the modern valves and original style valves?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I guess the answer is "depends on which modern valves you use". If you use the kits with standard sized valves, I can't see there being any change in performance. If you use the ones with larger inlet valves, it will breathe better but you won't get full value out of them if you still have the same cam and carby for example. I recently used the larger valves but didn't like how close they came to the bore so I turned them down 0.100". That meant they were still 0.100" bigger and I cleaned up the ports. Very happy with the improvement. Oh yeh, HC head, improved cam, my own inlet manifold, downdraught carb helped too!:D
BTW The appearance of the valves from the top doesn't mean much. If you're not sure, remove them and check them and the seats.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top