It was no point gap !!

The tool should be the same as the diameter of the cam lobes PLUS .040".

OD= cam diameter + .020" in wall thickness, which would make it .040" larger than the cam outside diameter.
 
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I like the "idea" of the tool,but the "idea" of paying $30 for it does not thrill me.
Seem $10 - $15 would be more inline.

I agree Keith, I think it is a bit high in price. But it is handy for us guys that can't eyeball the gap and when I use it, I also try to use a feeler gage to verify the results.
 
ID = cam diameter
OD= cam diameter + .020"

Yep, easily made.
IF you have the machine tools to do it.

For me, $30 is a bargain. And it's a handy tool to have.

Having a Model A is only an excuse to buy more tools in the first place isn't it? :D
 
ID = cam diameter
OD= cam diameter + .020"



Yep, easily made.

Not being a machinist and not knowing anything about this sort of thing, wouldn't some cams be different in diameter based on how much use they have had? So to make these it would seem like a person should start with a new cam to get diameter??? (just asking)

Also note that the gap gage is embedded in rubber which becomes a plug into the end of the cylinder. Maybe the 30 bucks is not to far off as far as cost.

Also this is maybe another reason to check the point gap after using this thing because your cam may be smaller than the "standard" diameter???? (again just asking) But on the other hand, it should get a "close" setting on the points anyway.
 
Not being a machinist and not knowing anything about this sort of thing, wouldn't some cams be different in diameter based on how much use they have had? So to make these it would seem like a person should start with a new cam to get diameter??? (just asking)

Also note that the gap gage is embedded in rubber which becomes a plug into the end of the cylinder. Maybe the 30 bucks is not to far off as far as cost.

Also this is maybe another reason to check the point gap after using this thing because your cam may be smaller than the "standard" diameter???? (again just asking) But on the other hand, it should get a "close" setting on the points anyway.




[Just saying] But isn't this a lot of asking for someone that has one ? [ just saying]

I have no intention of buying one, or, making one. Don't need one. [ just saying]

I just gave dimensions for making one, thats all. [ just saying] You could easily make several of different sizes for your different size cams, easy. [ just saying] :D


You may want to re-read #14 and #25 as they tend to contradict one another. [ just saying]
 
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It seems demystifying setting points just got more complex. Maybe I'm too lax, what's a thousandths or two among friends?

I could tell mine were closing up and just eyeballed them to 20 thousandths.
When the car was at the shop that's what it was...lucky I guess.:)
 
Whoa.............we need to make a correction. The wall thickness of the tool would be .020", so the overall outside diameter would be .040" more than the cam diameter.

I agree with Vince and the thickness or feeler gauge works for me.
Also agree with Willie that my calibrated eyeball gets it in the ballpark.
 
Whoa.............we need to make a correction. The wall thickness of the tool would be .020", so the overall outside diameter would be .040" more than the cam diameter.

I agree with Vince and the thickness or feeler gauge works for me.
Also agree with Willie that my calibrated eyeball gets it in the ballpark.






I thought we were ending this thread.

But, I agree with the .040, I should have done my own math.

I also have a feeling that some don't read all the posts.
 
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I'm not finished here yet. You all go on ahead without me.

Half the posts say it is cam diameter plus 0.040, and the other half of the posts say it is cam diameter plus 0.020, proving you guys can't even agree on how the thing is made or how it should work, so at least half of you are wrong 100% of time on this. :eek:

I say use a 0.020 feeler gauge, and I am right on this 100% of the time. :eek:

I agree with Vince!
Bill
 
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