Insulation

milesoftexas

milesoftexas

Junior Member
I currently have the interior pulled from my 39 Deluxe Coupe for upholstery job. Seat, door panels, kick panels, floormat etc. I know that there some sticky products out there that the boom boxers like(DynaMat, Fat Mat, Peel & Seal) No Boom Box here and love sound of my 258 CI 59 AB. Any suggestions on what to use? Floorboard in excellent condition all thru. Concerned about use of sticky stuff.
 
The "sticky stuff" is the best to use anywhere where the insulation needs to be waterproof. The inner panels of the doors, cowl and quarters can all get water as the trim clips holding the trim will leak. You absolutely do not want to use any insulation in these areas that might contain jute or any other material that soaks up water. If you glue in any waterproof insulation you must make sure your glue is waterproof or the insulation will eventually come loose. The "sticky stuff" will stick down and be there for a long time. It's up to you how you approach this, but to me the "sticky stuff" is the best.
 
TJ makes some very good points. Many years ago when I "redid" my interior I did not use any sticky stuff as I was not concerned about "noise" - just water. I made sure that drain holes in the bottom of the doors were "clear" as i figured it was the best way to drain any water. I left the floor painted "stock" and installed a repro floor mat from Carpenter. However, I would recommend using some good "sticky stuff" insulation inside the roof as that really soaks up the heat and cooks the interior - especially in Texas..
I am assuming you have the firewall insulator installed already.
 
go to the big box home store and buy a roll of bubble insulation, has two shiney sides and spray on some contact cement on the pieces you have cut to fit and on the roof above the headliner, kick panels, floor, in the doors, and anywhere else you can get to and you will insulate/quiet your car cheaper than the sticky stuff--have done 4 cars and two trucks with this and it works great and does not absorb moisture
 
I got some of this at caryle a couple yrs ago ,looks like it has some kind of foam BEYWEEN something shinny on both sides,,glad to hear it works ok,if I ever get to putting it in the 36
 
Alan, does the spray glue hold in the heat? Summit does have stuff like Dynamat and it is much cheaper.
 
Here is some tests I did a few years ago while doing my 40. I later tested lobucrods stuff and found it to be excellent. I will see if I can find that post. When I do my 40 tudor I will use Lizard Skin and lobucs stuff.

This past weekend I had the chance to do some testing with a non-contact temp sensor on my three hot rods. I have just completed installing B-Quirt over the Lizard Skin sprayed earlier. I was a little concerned about that decision and wanted to see, before upholstery, how it performed. The outside temp was low 90's in bright sun. The car is a 1940 Ford coupe painted black. First I tested outside of an area that does not yet have B-Quiet on it [ran out]. I was shocked to find only a 5 degree difference between the outside and directly opposite on the inside. I had the Lizard Skin applied by a local shop that does so regularly. Did they not do it corectly???? Certainly looked good, but how do you ascertain 40 mils? I later decided to do the underside of the car and sprayed it myself, I don't know if I got 40 mils. I do like how the Lizard Skin seals the surface. Anyway, next I tested the area with B-Quite over the Lizard Skin. WOW, a 60 degree difference. I also tested my Blue 46 coupe with some insulation that comes from the aircraft industry [not sure of the name, black, closed cell foam type stuff] and a headliner. It was 40 degree's different. Then I tested my 53 F100 with two layers of the "jute" backed foil. I put the first layer in with the foil toward outside and then was told by many that was the wrong way, so I intalled a second layer with the foil to the inside. It has a Rod Doors ABS plastic headliner. It also tested at a 40 degree difference. Of course, what I don't know is what a effect a headliner will have on the 40, I hope for the better. I have attached some pictures to validate my comments.
Attached Thumbnails
 
Here is the follow up on lobucrods stuff.

Test results with Lobucrod's insulation. I wish that I could have done this in the same temperature as the last but didn't want to wait untill next summer. It was only about 78 degrees on this day. I used the trunk lid on my 46 because it has nothing in the way of insulation on the inside. I attached a piece of B-Quiet, Lobuc's, jute with foil, and the airline industry stuff. With the outside temp on the decklid at 111 degrees I obtained the following results. B-Quiet 84 deg, Lobuc 84 deg, jute/foil 88 deg and airline stuff 86 deg's. Later it dawned on me that I could create heat with my "halogen lights on a pole". So I set this up in the shop and tested the Lobuc and the B-quiet on my 40 project that has the Lizard Skin sprayed on. I was able to heat the outside surface to 160 degrees. The area that I had already installed B-quiet over the LS showed 80 degrees on the interior side, the Lobuc over the LS was 85 degrees. I have pics to back this up if anyone needs to see them, well not the halogen light induced temp because the lite was too bright to take any pics. Some thoughts about what I think that I have learned. First Lobuc has a good product that I will use again. It is as good at temp reduction as B-Quiet for a lot less money. It also is lighter than B-Quiet and easy to remove if needed, I learned that removing the B-Quiet after it has been on a while is VERY hard, as it leaves a coating of tar on the surface. Yes it looks and smells like a fresh asphalt coating on a parking lot. I would not be happy to deal with this stuff after it has been on the car for awhile. This experience makes me rethink the value of using this type of stuff. I don't know how Lobucs product would stack up against B-Quiet as far as sound control goes. Also, there did not seem to be any advantage to adding a layer of Lobuc's over the B-Quiet I already have. Putting two layers of Lobuc's product together also seemed to not lower the temp reduction. My next project will probably get a coating of Lizard Skin with Lobucrod's product over it. One last thing in case you did not see my other post regarding the thickness of Lizard Skin. I was recently able to test what was sprayed on my 40 [some by me, most by an experienced shop] with an expensive device that measure mills of coating thickness. Lizard skin recommends 40 mils, my 40 varies from 10 to 20 miils. A friend that recently did the floor of his car had to apply three coats with a roller to get to 40 mils of thickness. Just FYI. Joe
 
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