Inner Wheel Bearing Stuck

Thanks for all the advice. I tried two screwdrivers on either side and I tried heating it with a heat gun, to no avail. I also noticed, as was mentioned earlier, when I first took it off that discoloration that didn't seem to be the original color of the grease and wondered if something was wrong. I'm going to try again this weekend. I fear I may have damaged the bearing and am past the point of no return and will have to remove it one way or the other.
 
If you've been doing some prying on it I would think that the odds are it is probably trashed. I have heard of some taking the bearing cage off and then welding a bead on the race in order to get it hot and expand it enough for it to be removed.
 
Squally said:
Thanks for all the advice. I tried two screwdrivers on either side and I tried heating it with a heat gun, to no avail. I also noticed, as was mentioned earlier, when I first took it off that discoloration that didn't seem to be the original color of the grease and wondered if something was wrong. I'm going to try again this weekend. I fear I may have damaged the bearing and am past the point of no return and will have to remove it one way or the other.
Click to expand...


You probably don't have a small torch but if you do you could try heating the inner part of the bearing that touches the axle... just get it good and warm, not cherry or anything. If you don't have an oxy torch try using a propane.. might be kind of messy and doesn't really heat enough but might be enough to make it expand a little or if there is any locktite enough to break the bond. I doubt that is the case but who knows.
Unless you have a welder and are very good at it I would not do that.

Take the backing plate off so you can get to it better. Keep the steering arms connected to keep it stable.
Keep us posted... happy to help!
Larry Shepard
 
If push comes to shove, then I'd use a Dremel or small angle grinder to grind away as much as possible without touching the spindle. Then use a cold chisel to know it off or split it.
 
Yes
Remove the wedge bolt down below first and pull the brake actuating pin down out of the spindle bolt. Then remove the 4 backing plate bolts.
Remember when you the install eventually that those must be very tight
Larry
 
I couldn't figure out how to remove the wedge bolt, so I went ahead and removed the four bolts and was able to then pry the bearing loose. It did get a little bent. However, now I have the issue of the new bearing, even though it seems to be the same size is so tight that I don't see how I'm going to get it on the spindle. Just pressing it on by hand I almost couldn't get it back off once I realized it wasn't going to get even close to going on. I purchased it from Mike's and it's a Timken. The one that I removed was also a Timken, but it has a different part number etched on it. The old one is A1201. The new one has a sticker A-1201 on it, but the actual box has 15118. Not sure how I should proceed.
 
Feel around the spindle for rough edges or a place or two where someone made punch marks. Take a little emory cloth or if necessary a fine file and smooth down any of these rough spots. The bearing should slide on fairly easily.
 
That's the current timken number so it should be ok
Make sure the spindle surface isn't burred up. If so dress it a little
Fit should be snug

Grease and if you have to use a small punch to lightly tap on that's ok

Hopefully all goes well
Snug bearings as you normally would.
Keep us posted
Thanks
Larry
 
After cleaning it all off, you can see it looks like little dimple marks were impressed on the spindle all the way around. I ended up rubbing it with emory cloth and was able to get the new one on. Thank you for all your help.
 

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