Inner Wheel Bearing Stuck

Squally

Squally

Junior Member
I had all the wheels removed to have them painted and to get new tires and decided to try to pack the wheel bearings while they were off. It's my first time trying this. The left side came loose pretty easily with just a little nudge from a screwdriver, but on the right side I cannot removed the inner bearing. I've tried spraying it with PB Blaster over the last few days and Liquid Wrench for a couple of days before that. Does anyone know of a good way to get it loose? I've tried a screwdriver and pry bar, but I'm afraid of bending the hub if I put too much pressure. I've tried banging on it from the front to "break" it loose.
 

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How about heat from a hair dryer or heat stripping gun? Maybe you could heat the bearing while keeping the spindle cool with wet rags.
 
Try prying with two screwdrivers from both sides at the same time.. or lady fingers maybe better.

Last resort would be to bust the cage and rollers off, use heat, a puller or, i score them then wack it with a chisel to split it
Wear goooglees
 
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Might be that someone used a locktite product to keep the bearing from spinning, might need more heat then hairdryer.
 
Mitch//pa said:
Try prying with two screwdrivers from both sides at the same time.. or lady fingers maybe better.

Last resort would be to bust the cage and rollers off, use heat, a puller or cut /slit through the inner race ..
Wear goooglees
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As Mitch said try prying with two good fitting screwdrivers evening opposed to see if you can get it to move off the spindle. clean off the grease first so you can see what's going on. I don't think PB blaster will make any difference in this case. If you damage the grease retainer you will have to dress is up or replace it. Repros are junk.. just know that.

Hopefully someone didn't basterdize the spindle too much and drive it on.
Larry Shepard
 
larrys40 said:
As Mitch said try prying with two good fitting screwdrivers evening opposed to see if you can get it to move off the spindle. clean off the grease first so you can see what's going on. I don't think PB blaster will make any difference in this case. If you damage the grease retainer you will have to dress is up or replace it. Repros are junk.. just know that.

Hopefully someone didn't basterdize the spindle too much and drive it on.
Larry Shepard
Click to expand...

What part is the grease retainer? I don't see it in the diagram.
 
larrys40 said:
As Mitch said try prying with two good fitting screwdrivers evening opposed to see if you can get it to move off the spindle. clean off the grease first so you can see what's going on. I don't think PB blaster will make any difference in this case. If you damage the grease retainer you will have to dress is up or replace it. Repros are junk.. just know that.

Hopefully someone didn't basterdize the spindle too much and drive it on.
Larry Shepard
Click to expand...
Agreed on the bastardization...good fitting slide hammer with the hook end may be able to nudge it loose if you work around it like a paint can lid.
 
it.s the small lip ring that fits on the step of the spindle behind the bearing. Kind of hard to get them off with the black dust ring ( held on by the 4 spindle backing plate bolts) but it can be done. I agree with sea slugs that you might try a thin slide hammer attachment but I don't think you will find it fits. I usually am able to finagle them off. Just try not to do damage. I hate to say it but if the bearing isn't having a great issue grease in place as best you can, pack race, re-install if you have to.

Of course removal, clean/repack is best. Check all races in the hub for tightness and smoothness. No gauling, etc Wiggle outer race and check inner for looseness.
Larry

310060
 
Larry beat me to it, but I was also going to suggest clean it with gas and a blow gun, then if the rollers and race look good, grease it in place and go with it. Be sure to push the grease well into the space between the rollers.
 
Maybe its the picture or the brand of grease but it sure looks Metallic gray to me. Inspect the rollers and races real good. There should be no pitting, just smooth surfaces as Larry and Tom mentioned

Maybe someonee went around the spindle with a center punch then jammed the bearing on
 
Go read the backside of lock tight RED (locker) or bearing fix and see how to remove it. I use locktite products all the time and they work as intended if your surfaces are clean.
 
I had one the same. Ended up getting the cage and rollers off and gave the remaing inner a good hit across it with a cold chisell and it cracked through on the second hit. I put a bottle jack up to the underside of it to support it so as not to put strain on the rest of the stub and king pin. Might be a bit hard to understand what I'm saying but just think about it and you should get it.
 
Mitch//pa said:
Maybe its the picture or the brand of grease but it sure looks Metallic gray to me. Inspect the rollers and races real good. There should be no pitting, just smooth surfaces as Larry and Tom mentioned

Maybe someonee went around the spindle with a center punch then jammed the bearing on
Click to expand...
same - maybe it spun and friction welded itself to the spindle (hopefully not)
 
I've had luck with those large dust cup removal pliers from Snap-On.
Set the jaws in the crack behind it & TAP-TAP-TAP on the big curved part of the pliers.
Bill Tricky
 
I would clean all that built up dirt and grease in front of it, PB Blast it, take a large pair of channel locks and turn and pull.
 
If it ends up that the cup/cone does have to be removed, breaking the cage and getting rid of the rollers will leave the cone/cup. Then use some REAL heat and heat a spot on the cone red hot, take 2 ball pean hammers, place the ball of one against the red hot spot and give it a whack with the other. That should stretch the cup enough to allow it to come off.
 
TIP# 219:
REMEMBER, with a small screwdriver, you can flip out 1 roller, to carefully inspect the INNER race for pitting & wear. Just TAP-TAP-TAP it back in.
Bill Thorough
 
The bearing may be a situation like I just encountered while putting on new cast iron front drums. A new Timken inner bearing would not go over the spindle. When I miked it it was very slightly undersized. I am sure that I could have forced it on, but I had an extra one that I used.
 
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