Ignition switch

I order a new nu-Rex "looks like pop out but isn't" ignition switch about 3 months ago. I tested it for continuity when it arrived, and there was no continuity between the two terminals when in the "on" position. The supplier sent me another one. It did have continuity, so I installed it. The other day my "A" wouldn't start. No voltage at the cable that screws into the distributor. Pulled the dash out again and checked the continuity of the switch. No continuity in the "on" position. What's going on here? Has no-Rex cut their quality to the bone?
 
Any time I use a nurex switch I needed to insulate the back of the switch from grounding on the tank. Why yours did not have continuity out of box is interesting as I never had trouble with them ..
 
I had a similar problem. Took it apart and found it full of grease. The grease got between the contacts. Cleaned out the grease and works fine now. A second one I returned to the vendor showed some loss of continuity so I just sent it back and fixed the one I had.
 
Any time I use a nurex switch I needed to insulate the back of the switch from grounding on the tank. Why yours did not have continuity out of box is interesting as I never had trouble with them ..
I "wunder" if anyone has ever "dented" the gas tank, so a LONGER switch will fit, safely?
Dad
 
Thank you Hook !!! I just now took mine apart and it was full of grease also. Cleaned out the grease and re-assembled. I now get continuity between the two terminals when switch is "on". I know there is such a thing as "conductive grease". Obviously, this is not it. Maybe the assemblers ran out of conductive grease and just used regular grease. I did notice that the switch was assembled in Mex. After observing the inside of the switch, it does look well designed and well constructed.
 
Here's some Pics of the disassembled Nu-Rex ignition switch.
 

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