Ignition switch

D

denver9

Member
I want to install a modern style, multi-position ignition switch in my 31 Model A Coupe. Does anyone know of an ignition switch that will fit behind the stock Model A panel? The switches I have found are all too long to fit in the limited space.
 
NuRex makes one that is "ACC-OFF-ON" that will fit and look like an original PopOut (available at most of the vendors). If you want "START" added to the equation, that's a whole nuther story. I don't have the info right now, but there is a guy down in Texas that has modified a switch that will work and has made them up for some of the guys in the Dallas/Ft Worth area clubs.
 
It might help a little if we new what type of ignition system you have and what you are trying to accomplish?

Bob
 
Bob:
I have FSI electronic ignition by First Street Ignition (Highly recommend). I want to wire turn signals to accessory position to guard against leaving them running when I forget to cancel. Also, I may install a power strip that is fed from the ACC position in case I add other doo-dads that I want to turn off when the ignition is off.
 
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Carl G:
Sounds like what I am looking for but don't recall seeing it in the popular supplier catalogs. One problem though; the base that mounts the pop-out to the panel is missing so will need to use conventional attachment method (nut and jam nut). Thanks for the info and I wioll re-search my catalogs.
 
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Machine Girl:
Thanks for that info. However, it appears that switch requires the mounting base that is normally swaged (sp?)onto the panel. That base is missing from my car. I need to use the conventional mounting using a nut/jam nut on the switch shaft.
 
Bob, That's a possibility but a new panel added to the cost of the switch ($50 plus handling and postage) brings the cost up to almost insane. Thanks to all for your suggestions.
 
Mitch//pa was gracious enough to send me one he got from Tam's Model A. Last time I looked, it didn't show up in their catalog, Mitch told me it was also available with an accessory position, also, but NO key start position. Doesn't look like a "pop out" but has a nice appearance. Haven't installed mine yet, but it IS short & will fit well.
I always glue a leather patch on the gas tank, just behind the ignition switch, just in case ANYTHING "might" ever short out, I do the same behind my junction box, just in case them screw heads "might" ever short out. BY THE WAY, I've seen 3 cases of POOR contact in junction boxes, even when both sets of nuts were TIGHT & NO visable signs of CORROSION!! CLEAN them dudes GOOD & internal star washers are a GREAT help, also. There's NOTHING sophisticated in a junction box, jist a quick & easy place to HOOK/UNHOOK stuff. If your wiring system is decent & you use good quality, solder-on, terminals, rarely will you ever have electrical problems. DON'T EVER use them CHEEP "squeeze-on" terminals!!! I, personally, use jist a tiny drop of RED Loctite on ALL electrical connector screw & nut threads. THE DOG SEZ I'M PARANOID??? BUT, I don't ever want to be stuck 'aside the road with my wiring SMOKIN'!!!!---Bill W.
 
Thanks Bill,
Lots of good tips and advice. I recently discovered the tie down bolts on the junction box are electrically hot. Seems strange to me.
 
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denver9 said:
Bob, That's a possibility but a new panel added to the cost of the switch ($50 plus handling and postage) brings the cost up to almost insane. Thanks to all for your suggestions.
Click to expand...
Well, denver9, I ain't rich, but I sprung for a NEW panel from Snyder's, cuz sumbody "polished" mine with sandpaper, looks REALLY good & looks like it's gonna' fit well:D The Dog:cool: tole me to tole you, thet if you BROKE, he's got a few bucks buried in the flowerbed:eek: Ol' Glen Blue told me once, "IF YOU GONNA' PLAY, YOU GOTTA' PAY":eek:!!----Bill W.
(YEP, it has a nice looking nut on the front & a jamb nut in the back)
 
If you don't care about looks you might even find a switch from a riding lawn tractor or mower. I bought a Cub Cadet key and switch a few weeks ago for about $7. It looks shallow enough to fit the panel on an A, and has the jam nut for mounting.
 
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denver9 said:
Thanks Bill,
Lots of good tips and advice. I recently discovered the tie down bolts on the junction box are electrically hot. Seems strange to me.
Click to expand...
YEP, Denver, them one sided nuts that hold the cover on are HOT! When you need power to test sumpthing under the hood, jist clip yore ALLUMIGATOR clip on either one. While torqueing Mineva's head, I got against one & ACCIDENTALLY "tested" her main power circuit breaker, IT WORKED! & I DIDN'T smoke any wires!--Bill W.
 
Well, Bill, now you got me to wondering. I just got off the phone with Tam's Model A and they said they have "access" to such a switch but it is the one that mounts like a pop-out.
Do you by any chance know the manufacturer/part number of the switch you have?
And I agree, "If you gonna play, you have to pay" and pay I do. Just sprung for a Weber Carb and manifold for "Old Yeller" as well as a FSI electronic ignition distributor from First Street. sure smoothed out the engine and flattened my wallet at the same time ;-) But well worth it.
 
here is the good quality fake pop out with the accy terminal from nurex... its the same switch the suppliers sell
 

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Hi all,
I have been away from this site for awhile, but here is what I did. I found a switch for a Golf cart. It sticks out in front a bit further than the stock switch but is shallow enough to fit behind the panel and has the accessory position. Works well.
Thanks to allof ytou for your help.
-Denver
 
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