I need a Project

T

Terry Burtz Calif

Senior Member
Now that the oil pumps are in stock and being sold, and the flywheel housings will be in stock around October 5th, I need a new project.
I've been designing a lightweight piston and a water pump that utilizes a carbon/ceramic seal, similar to those found in modern pumps. The water pump will have the exterior appearance of an original water pump.
If you have any suggestions for a new project or a comment on a piston or water pump, please don't hesitate to share them with me.
 
I love double clutching my crash box ******, but a lot of people just cant get it. What about a syncro ****** or even an automatic one, although I cannot imagine an automatic stuffed into that small std box.
 
For years, I have been running water pumps I made by fitting a ceramic seal to an existing core or casting new ones. They have a ball bearing front and back and the first one I did now has about 60,000 miles on it and going strong.
The bodies I have cast are aluminium and the impellor is beefed up a bit to accommodate its share of the seal.
I haven't gone over board with keeping the appearance original - there is no castellated nut that used to tighten the packing but with one of those leather grease shields (totally unnecessary) fitted, nobody can see that.
Each pump takes me a lot of time on my simple lathe and I have considered producing them in commercial quantities but as I have said when talking about it, shipping and tariffs would be a killer even though the exchange rate is in my favour. To produce the expected quantities of these pumps, I would have to contract out some of the work - more costs and I would have to establish a relationship with a company in (probably) China to get that done. You already have that.
For those who cannot grasp shifting a crash box, how about a brake on the flywheel?
 
what about building a new flathead V8, maybe a copy of a 59A block,
Im sure it won't take up much time.
Lawrie
 
Compared to what you have brought onto the market so far, Terry, this suggestion may be like making Tinker Toys for you. An intake manifold that is already bored out 1/8" to increase air flow would be welcomed by the Model A community. For years I have been frustrated in my attempt to get local auto machine shops to bore out my Model A intakes. I always get the same answer, which basically boils down to these Einsteins can't make a small hole bigger. No luck. We all know the benefit of greater air flow into the Model A engine. A bored-out Model A intake manifold would help those of us installing Model B carbs and obviate the need to use the odd-looking and incorrectly angled Model B intake. I suggested to Snyder's years ago that there was a ready market for such a manifold, but I received a lukewarm reception.
I don't know if you are the supplier of new intake manifolds to the vendors, but if you are, can't you go one step further and offer a bored-out version for an extra $25 or so? I'm sure the Model A community would be willing to pay this amount to gain the added performance boost that such a manifold would offer.
Marshall
 
Marshall V. Daut said:
Compared to what you have brought onto the market so far, Terry, this suggestion may be like making Tinker Toys for you. An intake manifold that is already bored out 1/8" to increase air flow would be welcomed by the Model A community. For years I have been frustrated in my attempt to get local auto machine shops to bore out my Model A intakes. I always get the same answer, which basically boils down to these Einsteins can't make a small hole bigger. No luck. We all know the benefit of greater air flow into the Model A engine. A bored-out Model A intake manifold would help those of us installing Model B carbs and obviate the need to use the odd-looking and incorrectly angled Model B intake. I suggested to Snyder's years ago that there was a ready market for such a manifold, but I received a lukewarm reception.
I don't know if you are the supplier of new intake manifolds to the vendors, but if you are, can't you go one step further and offer a bored-out version for an extra $25 or so? I'm sure the Model A community would be willing to pay this amount to gain the added performance boost that such a manifold would offer.
Marshall
Click to expand...

1. This item is already produced and being sold at Berts.



A-9449-B

Model "B" Bored Intake Manifold
Product Code: A9449B
Availability: In Stock
$125.00


2. I have been using such a manifold for some time on my Model B engine.
 
Last edited:
Benson et al -
I just looked through Bert's on-line catalog and found the manifold you cited. Hurray! FINALLY someone listened to the market and responded with a product to fill a void! I suggested this manifold to Snyder's at least 10 years ago when the on-line Model A community decided it was more fun to drive their Model A's than to drag them around to shows on trailers, worrying about getting scratches in the paint. Naturally, the desire for more power and speed accompanied this change in purpose. I don't know how long Bert's has been offering this manifold, but I'm sure glad to know it's available. I wish I had known about this two years ago when I was fighting a mismatched Model B manifold to an already shaven exhaust manifold. 'Paid a fortune (relatively speaking) to have the two manifolds machined level across their faces, losing quite a bit of the gland ring recesses in the process. I would have MUCH preferred to buy this manifold from Bert's. 'Serves me right for not requesting an updated catalog from Steve for a number of years. Mea culpa...
Thanks for the tip, Benson!
Marshall
 
As I become senior, it gets difficult to shift gears in my Model A's. How about designing an efficient automatic transmission with overdrive that is a bolt-in for the Model A.
 
Besides boring the upright portion of the intake manifold, some radii were it transitions to the horizontal parts would help a lot. The air gets restricted where it makes that sharp 90 degree corner.
 
nkaminar -
Is this feature already built into the Model B manifold? If so, the B intake manifold has a double benefit in air flow missing in the Model A manifold.
Marshall
 
Terry, please look into building a New Model A Steering Gear Box that is patterned off of the F-100 box with the rolling sector gear element, or it could be the "recirculating ball" design used in the 1950s.

The only improved steering gear box alternative today is the F-100 conversion, and the number of these units available to modify to fit the Model A are limited and shrinking.

It would be good if the New Model A Steering Gear Box had a modern sector shaft seal, and a seal or tube at the bottom for the horn rod to go through without oil leaking. We put up with entirely too much oil leakage.

It does NOT need needle bearings on the sector shaft; that is not a good application for this style bearing. Bushings are good, perhaps with a grease fitting.

I don't know how the F-100 box is adjusted, but some form of external adjustment would be really good on the New Steering Gear Box, similar to the 2-tooth stock gear box.

Similar to what is done with the F-100 box conversions, the top of the gear box should accept the steering column tube to slide down over the top and clamp on.

The more the New Model A Steering Gear Box could look like an original 2-tooth box, the better.

I think the F-100 box is more turns "lock to lock" than a stock Model A box. I think that's OK, but not required. With the F-100 box, we get what we get in terms of ratio and turns. Your New Model A Steering Gear Box could closely match the stock Model A ratio (or be a bit more favorable).

It probably needs to be manufactured with a couple of different steering shaft lengths, to accommodate the 1929 steering column and the '30-'31 column. That is a detail that would have to be studied. I don't know if you want to try to accommodate the 1928 and early-'29 columns (currently 7-tooth).

Thanks for asking for ideas.
 
Terry, with as much tooling, fixtures, patterns, etc. from your present 5 main block, what is the feasibility of creating a replacement block that accepts a stock Ford A crankshaft? This market would be for the individual that maybe has need for just a replacement block (-due to thin castings, cracks, etc.) or for the vintage racer that must run a stock-type block.
 
I saw Terry's post last night, but didn't respond because I wanted to think about it a bit more.

Several folks have suggested transmissions. There are four things about the stock transmission that could be "improved" upon, IMO. Non-synchromesh, whining second gear, the huge jump between second and third, and lack of an overdrive top gear. Steve Mitchell's transmission and "gear splitter" take care of the first (mostly), third and fourth. My understanding is that the gear noise is inherent in the straight-cut gears, and without significant internal modifications is just not practical (or possible) to eliminate. And all of these can be taken care of with a swap to a more modern transmission, well documented.

Rather, I think efforts towards an automatic transmission might be well received. We are none of us getting any younger. One member in my club frankly required an automatic to be able to continue driving his "A", and the process was quite extensive and invasive (he wrote it up in a recent Restorer). If there was a way to make this conversion more painless with a redesigned transmission that would fit a stock rear end assembly this would be a tremendous benefit to the Model A community.

I also really like Brent's suggestion of a Burtz block that would accept standard Model A crankshaft, although admittedly that removes much of the benefit of the new engine with the larger and more plentiful main bearings.
 
The Berts product is well-made and well-machined. It will have to be matched to the user's exhaust manifold and flattened/decked (machined).

Enlarging one's own intake that is already mated to an exhaust should not be too big a task for a machinist with a boring bar and mill.

The bored enlargement needs to be carried up to the division point from updraft to sideways and the increased in area exists. As thin as the wall is, as deep as the transition is, a cutter on cast iron loses too much rigidity and a radius is unnecessary. Just boring the updraft tube to the transition is all that is required; at the top of the updaft portion, the volume increases 224%.

Send me your intake manifold and I will bore it out for you, if Berts can't.

D-n-t-S
 
The steering box suggestions above are well worthwhile but would only be for LHD cars. A RHD version would not sell as well but.....
 
How about a new bigger carb? My Tilly is simpler than a Zenith, maybe use its jet and venturi design, if patents allow.
 
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