How Much Crank to Buy

JWL said:
Tim, I use heads which have been modified. As I wrote in my book, I use the same bolts/studs, washers, gaskets, and torque values and sequencing that will be used in the final assembly. After both head plates are on I also torque the main caps in place.

I will lend you my modified heads if you pay shipping both ways. Probably more cost than we would ever guess.

JWL
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Hey John:

Yep, got your book out as reference. Forgot about bolting up the caps until I re-read that section.

I really appreciate the offer and will let you know. I may still give hole cutting the heads a go just for the experience.

Thanks again.

Tim
 
I have the Potvin 425 Eliminator cam in my engine of 290 cubes. The cam was ground by Pete. It is an excellent cam and I couldn't be happier.
I recommend one for whatever you're planning to do.
JMO
Jim
 
Dennis.... listen to Pete and JWL, no-one on the planet knows more than those two.

There are two ways of approaching a hot engine, one is the standard bored/stroked torque monster, the other is the stock bore/stroke high and fast revver. You have to decide which is your best option, but I'll just say I know of two 35s running more or less stock displacement engines that rev to kingdom come and will scare the pants off many an SBC.
 
I'm putting together a 294 stroker that I bought from Gary from NY(He's on the barn here) he does the balancing The rods he furneshed cleared the cylinder bore and the L-100 cam. I have a modified stock head as well for a torque plate and I follow JWs method, works well. I use the 74cc Edelbrock heads and founf pd the piston to head clearance to be about .070" on the edge of the cylinders and .090" at the dome, CR checked out at 7.7. I'm having the heads milled 025" to tighten things up alittle.

One interesting note is the clearance over the spark plugs is enoug to run a powertip plug. I've checked 2 different styles of 3/4" reach plugs and both left 2 exposed threads, which will have to be removed. I'll have some pics soon.
 
Dennis Jarrell said:
Actually the block was honed with a torque plate. Thanks to every one for the info. Has anyone tried the comp cams thumper series?
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I'm building an engine for a fellow who bought the Thumper cam from Speedway. The cam was ground straight up while the timing card called for it to be ground 6 deg advanced. I've ordered a cam gear that will put it where it belongs.
 
Ol' Ron said:
I'm putting together a 294 stroker that I bought from Gary from NY(He's on the barn here) he does the balancing The rods he furneshed cleared the cylinder bore and the L-100 cam. I have a modified stock head as well for a torque plate and I follow JWs method, works well. I use the 74cc Edelbrock heads and founf pd the piston to head clearance to be about .070" on the edge of the cylinders and .090" at the dome, CR checked out at 7.7. I'm having the heads milled 025" to tighten things up alittle.

One interesting note is the clearance over the spark plugs is enoug to run a powertip plug. I've checked 2 different styles of 3/4" reach plugs and both left 2 exposed threads, which will have to be removed. I'll have some pics soon.
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Ron:

I know I'd appreciate a picture of what the plug looks like in the head after the threads are removed.

I don't doubt that the threads need to be done, but I'm I guess I'm intrigued about how those exposed threads can cause havoc during ignition.
 
My thought on the 4.25 crank was if the the engine doesn't rev much more than 4700-4800 then why not try to make as much torque as possible on the way and not wind the snot out of it. But I do recall when I was a pup, I new a guy that ran 1/8 over bore with stock stroke on the oval track that ran real good. He sold it and that guy put in a 33 sedan that would wear out most 55 Chevy's. It had edelbrock heads, fenton 3 deuce and 97's, and isky super something cam. So, I guess your guys are right there are many ways to go.
 
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