How do I use my $160 reamer?

Paul from Maine

Paul from Maine

Senior Member
Got the old king pin bushings out and pressed the new bushings into the spindle with my vise. 5 minutes later the UPS man dropped off my $160 spindle bushing reamer. I can guess how to use it, but don't want to make any stupid mistakes. There were no instructions. Can you guys tell me the proper method of reaming out the bushings?
 
I assume by the price you got the long style with the pilot to keep them aligned. Put the spindle in the vice, incert the pilot end through both bushings and oil the reamer flutes. Turn the reamer in a clockwise direction and ream both in one pass to keep the alignment the same. Never turn a reamer in a counterclockwise direction. Be prepared to catch the reamer as you finish the second bushing, letting them drop on the floor may put nicks in it. Be sure to clean all of the shavings from the spindle and clean out the holes for the grease zerks. Rod
 
I assume that you pushed out the old/worn bushings. After pressing in the new bushings, use a good quality cutting oil to coat the inside of the bushings. Then start the reamer in the upper bushing while turning the reamer clockwise. NEVER TURN THE REAMER COUNTERCLOCKWISE AS IT WILL DULL THE REAMER. Keep the reamer well lubed with cutting oil and with very little downward pressure until the reamer is thru both of the bushings. When the reamer has done it's job, check to see that the new "King Pin" fits thru the bushings. There will be some posts telling you not to use a reamer, that you should use a burnishing tool and that is each persons perogative. If I just purchased a $160.00 reamer I would use it. I have done a few bushing and king pinreplacements using a reamer with good results and am sure I will wear out long before these repairs do. Don/WI
Sorry, I guess I am a little slower than Rowdy. He has said basically what I did. Use both ideas for a good job.
 
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Followed your instructions to the letter and they worked! No play when I inserted the king pin! The reamer did fall out when I did the first spindle, but I had piled rags on the floor to catch it. Thanks guys, I probably would have fouled up the job with out your advice.
 
Its been many years since I did a king pin job on a Model A but if I remember correctly you have to drill a hole in the bushing so grease can get thru?? Then tke a little round file and clean up the burrs on the inside of bushing.
 
Bill in NJ said:
Its been many years since I did a king pin job on a Model A but if I remember correctly you have to drill a hole in the bushing so grease can get thru?? Then tke a little round file and clean up the burrs on the inside of bushing.
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Luckily, my bushings came with the hole pre-drilled. I noticed one of the old bushings had a hole and grooves for the grease, but the hole was not lined up with the passageway in the spindle itself! Probably the reason why that bushing was worn more than the others. I was careful to press the new bushings in with the hole lined up with the grease fittings. Will pump a little grease through to remove any filings.
 
forever4 said:
Not being a smart ***, but how?
I mean like stropping a razor to sharpen it is in the opposite direction of cutting.
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When the reamer is manufactured it is ground in the opposite direction to sharpen it, the same as the razor is sharpened in the opposite direction. I do not have any better answer than that, although when I went through my apprenticeship, that is one of the first things that I was told. I never turned a reamer backwards and I never ruined one. I guess if a person wanted to prove me wrong he could try turning it counterclockwise and see what the results are. Don/WI
 
I am no expert but I envision the cutting edge with a slight relief behind but there is support. By turning backward in a hole that is not cut or slightly undersized you could be pressing down on this high point that is poorly supported thus ruining the edge.
 
I was told the same thing in tech school. It is is even in the FAA's General Hanbook for A&P Mechanics, so I beleive there is something to it. Rod
 
The man I used to work for harped on me about not turning a reamer backwards.He ran an automotive machine shop until he died,and told me the reason was not so much about dulling,but when you turned it backwards the angled cutting edges became ramps for the chips to get under.Then,depending on the application you could bind up the reamer in the bushing,spinning it,or take a chip out of the reamer.I also remember him washing out a reamer and part being reamed,then turning it backwards to burnish the bushing a little.He said he only did that with a reamer that chattered because it was dull.It was only done on things that were not critical,pedal bushings,truck spring bushings,trailer suspension parts.etc.
 
Keith True said:
The man I used to work for harped on me about not turning a reamer backwards.He ran an automotive machine shop until he died,and told me the reason was not so much about dulling,but when you turned it backwards the angled cutting edges became ramps for the chips to get under.Then,depending on the application you could bind up the reamer in the bushing,spinning it,or take a chip out of the reamer.I also remember him washing out a reamer and part being reamed,then turning it backwards to burnish the bushing a little.He said he only did that with a reamer that chattered because it was dull.It was only done on things that were not critical,pedal bushings,truck spring bushings,trailer suspension parts.etc.
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Turning a reamer backwards will not dull it.
The reason for not backing it is that it will burnish the hole and then not cut to size when turned forward.
Like Kieth says, after the hole is finished taking a turn or 2 backward won't hurt a thing even with a sharp reamer.
Sometimes a reamer needs to be slightly smaller than the marked size for a special job..It can be taken down a thousanth or 2 by turning backward with a drill motor or drill press in a full length hole with some fine lapping compound on it.
 
forever4 said:
Not being a smart ***, but how?
I mean like stropping a razor to sharpen it is in the opposite direction of cutting.
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A knife is sharpened running the cutting edge forward on the stone, on both sides, to a point that will be an edge as thin as you can get it. I normally use diamond blocks. From there you use a steel, to remove the wire edge, which is the remnant, that the stone couldn't clean up. You can easily shave with a well sharpened knife. A straight razor on the other hand is hollow ground on both sides, as some knifes are, and when they get a nick in the blade, they also have to be stoned, but not as aggressive as you would a knife, also on a very fine stone. Now as long as the edge of the razor is thin, with out nicks, you use the leather strap to touch up the edge, and as Mr. 4 says pulling it backwards, on one, side, and then the other. ((( Besides, If you went the other way, you would have to many small pieces of strap to work with))) This really doesn't remove metal like a stone, but it does keep the edge straight, and thin, and not laid over. The reamer is another story. The best reamers, are the spiral fluted, rather then the straight fluted. The spiral is made that way, to give less chatter, I normally use cutting oil, unless there is a problem with getting rid of the chips, with the oil. Now, NEVER TURN A REAMER BACKWARDS, as the reamer cuts in ONE direction ONLY. The cutting edge is relieved with a 45 degree angle, so your cutting edge is the first point on the flute that touches when it is sharp. If you turn the cutting edge backwards, the cutting edge will role over, and look like a sled runner, and as you try to cut again, the cutting edge is now below the point of contact, and IT DON"T TAKE MUCH. When your cutting edge wears, the cutting edge gets wider, and starts to get dull, if you let the reamer go to long without sharping, you can not bring the reamer back to spc,s. They can normally be touched up about 2- 4 times, if you don't let them go to long. If you are having trouble with the bushings moving, or not staying tight, use sleeve retainer, or make your own, with larger O.D.'s. All brass, or bronze bushings are fit with a .002 thousands press, NOT OIL LITE BUSHINGS, Now, the sunnen hones work very well, as you always have control on the size you want, No bind, and no other movement. thanks Herm.
 
What is the secret to using one of those adjustable reamers that has the separate loose blades? I have never had any success with them. It seems they just bite, and then you can't turn them.
 
Russ/40
The adjustable reamers have to be adjusted out a small amount then the hole reamed. If the reamer bites in and gets stuck you are taking to much out at a time. A standard reamer only takes out a 1/64" to a ream. The hole should be drilled a 1/64" under the size of the reamer. Hope this helps.
 
You're tightening them too much to start with.After you have ruined a couple dozen thin wall bushings you will get the feel of how to start.If it is dull,or a cheapie,you may never get it to start.Those reamers are what I learned on.The shop had wooden boxes of bushings,so if I ruined one I could pop it out and drive in another one.I was kingpin boy,130 pounds of rosebud torch,and a 10 pound hammer with a 12 inch handle.I thought I wanted to be a mechanic so I did just what I was told and kept my mouth shut.It got so that I could say,one more pass of the reamer and that kingpin will be a thumb-press fit.And,most of the time I was right.
 
Russ/40 said:
What is the secret to using one of those adjustable reamers that has the separate loose blades? I have never had any success with them. It seems they just bite, and then you can't turn them.
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There is no secret to using one, it is more what prayer to use! They are to be used on just a single bushing, not to be used to line two bushings in perfact alignment. They don't work to well in hoging out a lot of metal at a time, I normally try not to take more then 2 or 3 tenths of a thousand at a time, maybe less. If it turns real hard, it is probably to much. They do not work very well in a bushing that have a stright line oil grove in it, as it want's to hang up. They have to be kept sharp, for them to work with any success. Most used reamers I have seen at Swap are all ready dull, but they could be touched up, if they are not ruined. The easiest way to check how dull your reamer is, is hold it up to the light, and look at the cutting edge, and see if you can see any light reflection, just behind the cutting edge, that is your wear. thanks Herm.
 
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