How bad have I screwed up?

Here is another shot in the dark...Is it possible that you A) have a high volume oil pump or B) some passage way is plugged?

Mike
 
It may just be coincidence, that something happened unrelated to your dropping the pan, and may not be something you caused. We are all hoping for the best, keep us posted as to your findings, this is perplexing....
 
I have seen the dipper pan pop loose and hit the rods. could be your knocking noise, Some times the sides get bent inward and dont seat good on the pan sides. just a thought...Dave
 
1931fordor said:
I replaced the oil pan after having the oil plug not spin out due to the ring on the pan coming lose, fixed that and oil pan went on with little trouble, now I went to put oil in it and had been told 5 quarts and I used castrol 20w-50. When I went to start it it ran fine, and then after driving the car maybe a mile and stopped back into garage and it was smoking like crazy and when I got out and cut it off I had oil seeping out the top of the head and steam/smoke coming from plugs and even from the distributor. Check oil 3 times and noticed that it was consistently way over the F about a quarter inch or so. Left car for day then went back later drained some oil out. Check next day and topped off oil and again started her up ran fine so put everything back on (previously replaced starter and battery). And noticed car was smoking again but only from the oil cap and dipstick slot, I figured it was just needing driving to settle out but I went to get gas was no problem but three miles later it cut out and then when I went to start it, it smoked and finally caught and I limped it a little more in
hopes to limp it home but it was running horrible, almost like it had a knock or something in the motor. I had it towed home, and tried to show my dad what it sounded like and it would not start, I am in the process of asking a model a club member for some help but wonder if this has happened to anyone here before?
Click to expand...

Are you saying you put a different pan on? If so was there a spring on the bottom of the oil pump, if not there that might be your problem. The 28's had the oil pump spring in the bottom of the pan. Latter ones had it on the oil pump.

I have worked on cars all my life. 95% of the time when a problem happens when you first start it, that was not there before, it is some thing that was done wrong when you worked on it. Sorry I do not make the rules that just is the way it is.
 
Last edited:
1931fordor said:
The oil pump is in and did not fall out... and the dipper tray is in there.

How would I know if the carb check valve is open?

It ran perfect, it did not leak timing was correct and never overheated or anything...QUOTE]

It ran perfect before the pan work.
The oil pump is in and the dipper tray is in place.

If the car has an updraft carb you don't need to worry about the check (float) valve. Any float valve leakage will be on the floor.

When the pan was removed, did the oil pump come out with or in the pan?

My next move would be what Kurt said, remove the plug on the passenger side of the motor that is just above the pan lip. Remove the spark plugs. Turn the engine with the handcrank. Oil should come out of the hole where the plug was removed. It takes about 11 revolutions to get oil into the valve chamber so if the oil doesn't come out of the hole after 11 revs it is not pumping.

Let us know if it is pumping or not.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
You don't have to pull the oil plug, and drain the oil to see if the pump is in it. Just pull the little screw on the side of the block, and see if there is a pump in the hole. If you are over full with your oil fill a 1/4 ', that would be enough to flood the pistions with oil, and it would smoke a bunch. Herm.
 
If you did over fill with oil, and had it coming out the head, and plugs, the oil would kill the plugs, and they now would smell like gas, you now have dead plugs. Your plugs shouldn't smell like gas, put in some new, or ones that you know are good, and they will have to burn the cylinders free of the oil that is trapped in there. If it was a gas problem, you wouldn't have oil leaking out of the head, and the plugs should be an off white, or gray, and dry. Herm.
 
Last edited:
FYI, once the plugs become oil fouled they are pretty much toast unless they can be cleaned with a plug cleaning station. Do as Herm suggested get new plugs.

Napa has these for 3 dollars each; Part Number: ASP 307 which will work 'til you find out what's wrong.

GW
 
gweilbaker said:
FYI, once the plugs become oil fouled they are pretty much toast unless they can be cleaned with a plug cleaning station. Do as Herm suggested get new plugs.

Napa has these for 3 dollars each; Part Number: ASP 307 which will work 'til you find out what's wrong.

GW
Click to expand...

Ive always cleaned plugs by taking a lighter and burning off all the oil. This is kind of a shadetree way of doing it, but itll work.
 
I've also had good luck cleaning fouled plugs by using carb cleaner, then a blow gun, then heat them rod hot with a propane torch.
 
The way you describe the smoking/steaming engine and oil pump is in place and functioning, it sounds like the "block" is getting too hot, perhaps no water circulation? Check for fan belt slipping, or perhaps a problem with water pump circulation. Sometimes a very hot block will "cook" old oil from the head gasket seam too, like you mentioned.
 
Thanks for all the input I have not checked here in a while because of time and priority, but I have found a local person who is helping me step by step figure out what is wrong, unfortunately I have to believe my head gasket needs replacing, but not sure
 
How was the drain spinning problem stopped? Could something like epoxy have gotten into the Oil pump to stop its working properly? I reheated my pan so the lead resealed and the oil drain didn't spin anymore.
 
Last edited:
I have an oil pan with the same problem, it turns and I can't get the plug out. I dropped the pan and cleaned it out, Can I just heat it up with w torch to remelt the lead, or do I need to somehow get the plug out first? Thanks
 
No, I just re melted the lead, and then the plug spun out, I then cleaned the threads. I am now using a new magnetized plug; the old one was the culprit.
 
I had the oil plug fixed by welding a repair kit on it. I have to replace the head gasket now because I did not have any water in it. I know I will receive a lot of flac for that but I cannot help what I did, I would like any advice on replacing the head gasket that anyone gives. I can tell that the engine just over heated because one of the wire harnes had melted to the block.
 
1931fordor said:
I had the oil plug fixed by welding a repair kit on it. I have to replace the head gasket now because I did not have any water in it. I know I will receive a lot of flac for that but I cannot help what I did, I would like any advice on replacing the head gasket that anyone gives. I can tell that the engine just over heated because one of the wire harnes had melted to the block.
Click to expand...
If you got it that hot, a head gasket won't fix it. You got worse problems than the head. Just "overheated" will melt more than wiring. Pistons swell, babbitt melts, and piston tops get burnt through as do valves. Bad news. This would have been good to know in the beginning since it is a determining factor.
 
A couple years ago an engine in our club overheated to the point of burning off any paint and old grease. This was caused by a worn water pump chopping holes in the radiator. I would have sworn the engine was history, but the owner fixed the radiator and the engine is still running fine.

How do you know that you need to replace the head gasket?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top