Here we go again...

I havent blackpearl. I will try those. I do feel a cyclic repeated vibration on that line when I hold it with the engine running. Is the advance plate supose to advance even a bit to get to idle? Or just to advance spark on acceleration?
Thanks
 
It depends on if you are using ported vaccum or manifold vaccum, if using manifold vaccum it should advance at idle so if your diaphram is split your timing would be retarded at idle causing it to idle rough, this is why you block the vaccum line when setting the base idle.. So having said that I would check to see if the diaphram is split by using a syring or some form or vaccum to see if you can move the breaker plate or you can check to see if you get an increase in timing when disconnecting and reconnecting the vacuum line.. If using ported vaccum the advance is added at cruising speed not idle so it would esentially be a symtom of a vacuum leak....so in this case you should be able to block the vaccum line to the carb and the idle should improve.

Hope this helps
 
Good lead, that might just be the thing. The vac line is connected to a port on the intake manifold, just below the carb if I recall correctly. So, that cyclic vibration that I feel when holding the metal line might come from air getting through a split on the diafragm.
Also, I forgot to mention that the exhaust is crackling and poping sometimes. That is consistent with retarded timing, correct?
 
So this sound like manifold vacuum, so yes the vacuum advance is applied at idle...popping from the exhaust could be the mix of retarded timing and lean mixtures ( vacuum leak )
 
OK, so extra air would be admitted into the manifold, the principle of vac leak.
Sounds good to me.
Cant thank you enough for this solid lead. I'll get back later when I test it.
Regards.
 
BTW, what to use on that little lubrication point wuth a cap on the dizzys body? Oil? Grease?
Engine's manual says lubricate but I cant seem to find with what? I've got super thin elevator grease...
 
RCM said:
BTW, what to use on that little lubrication point wuth a cap on the dizzys body? Oil? Grease?
Engine's manual says lubricate but I cant seem to find with what? I've got super thin elevator grease...
Click to expand...
For part # 12135 in the previous exploded diagram? Use regular motor oil.

FYI: on the rubbing block for the points, use a small dot of light grease that is compatible with plastic, silicone based(?), so it doesn't damage rubbing block.
 
Thanks dmsfrr, I'll follow your advice.
Just tested the vacuum advance with a syringe as Blackpearl suggested. It moved the advance plate but didnt hold it so I guess its leaking. Right?
Also a correction, the vac line is connected at the carb, I mistook it with the line going to the fuel pump so that makes it a ported vacuum advance control unit.
Thoughts?
Regards
 
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If it's on the base plate of the carb it still can be manifold vac, if it's higher up on the carb it is probably ported, however the breaker plate should hold, test this by checking the timing with and with out the vac line connected, or when you block the line dies idle improve?
 
if your happy with your dist. ck spark should be blue not orange also very poss. you have dirt in the idle circuits of the carb when you have it running poor, slide your hand over the top of the carb only closing off a little bit at a time this will cut down on the air flow and give it the fuel that it needs if it runs smooth you know where your problem is, hope this helps
 
just another thing when re reading one of your posts in regards to your point gap, when you increased the gap to proper spec's (0.24) you said that it ran worse so you decreased it back to a smaller gap, dwell angle play's a part in timing and spark, if you have a small gap you generally get a weak spark and you dwell angle will be incorrect...this will also effect the timing this is why timing is the last thing you adjust in a "Tune Up", this makes me think there is definitely something going on in this area...
 
RCM said:
Thanks dmsfrr, I'll follow your advice.
Just tested the vacuum advance with a syringe as Blackpearl suggested. It moved the advance plate but didnt hold it so I guess its leaking. Right?
Regards
Click to expand...
Yes, if it won't hold a vacuum and the leak isn't in the syringe or tube connections, it's in the advance diaphragm.

Blackpearleb434 said:
just another thing when re reading one of your posts in regards to your point gap, when you increased the gap to proper spec's (0.24) you said that it ran worse so you decreased it back to a smaller gap, dwell angle play's a part in timing and spark, if you have a small gap you generally get a weak spark and you dwell angle will be incorrect...this will also effect the timing this is why timing is the last thing you adjust in a "Tune Up", this makes me think there is definitely something going on in this area...
Click to expand...

I agree.
 
Well guys, thanks for helping out.
The vac is ported blackpearl, it is on the upper portion of the carb.
From your input I understand that a new vac advance control unit is demanded. Is this adequate?:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Airtex-4V11...ar:1956|Make:Ford&hash=item1c3c7d55e6&vxp=mtr

@joe1950: spark is blue/whitish alright, just seems weak to me.

I'm a bit concerned now to start the car in this condition, improper timing can really harm your engine from what I've read (ignition way before time while the piston is ascending for instance), so I'm afraid to conduct all this testing you proposed.

Do advise on the vac unit above so I can clear this one rapidly.

Regards.
 
Ported vacuum advance is generally for economy and the advance is put on at the end of the curve so to speak so doesn't effect idle timing, if the base timing is set correctly the engine should run fine at idle so you can still trouble shoot, just block off the vacuum line to the carb until you get the new part. Set the point gap to correct spec (0.024 you mentioned) and check initial base timing is correct......what other vacuum operated accessories are run? What is the wiper set up on this model...vacuum or electric motor? Does it have a brake booster? Block off all vacuum hoses to eliminate a vacuum leak, try joe1950's idea to determine idle circuit blockage....
 
OK.

Wipers are vacuum (from fuel pump ~ intk manifold) and advance is vacuum (top carb). I'll block off those and try at proper point gap spec. I thought vacuum advance was needed to idle. Did I mention the carb makes a loud wiss whistling sound at idle that grows up at throttle? Is does. Vac leak?

Joe1950's idea is to cover the carb throat lightly to see if idle improves, right?

Is this vac advance unit correct? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Airtex-4V11...ar:1956|Make:Ford&hash=item1c3c7d55e6&vxp=mtr

Thanks
 
A whistling carb usually indicates a leak at the carb base. This can be pinpointed by using a length of vacuum or fuel hose cut to the desired length. Put one end to your ear and check around the base of the carb and other suspect areas. The leak will be where the whistle is loudest. Your carb base may not be flat enough for the gasket to seal properly. This can be due to warpage or loose fasteners or overtorquing/uneven torquing of the fasteners. If the warpage is minor using 2 gaskets may fix it, otherwise the carb will need to be replaced or have the base milled flat by a machinist.
 
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Very well Dobie, I'll come back with that later. That and plugged vac lines.
What do you guys think about the advance unit? I gotta order it right away.
Can't stand to see her sick.
 
If the advance unit won't hold vacuum then it's bad. I've never tried to open one up to look at the diaphragm, I just replace the unit. I don't think the diaphragm itself is available as a service part.
 
Will this one fit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Airtex-4V11...ar:1956|Make:Ford&hash=item1c3c7d55e6&vxp=mtr
evilbay does not list customline as a fit, but, at bottom of the page you can see many 56 models with the 223 six, so I guess its ok.
What do you guys think?

PS-Just on the side, the part will cost 37$. Shipment and customs will be another 37$! Awsome.
I might as well buy a whole new dizzy (autoline or cardone) from rockauto for a total of 97€ shipped and custom payed: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[year_1994]=true&ck[mkt_US]=true&ck[mkt_EU]=true&ck[mkt_CA]=false&ck[mkt_MX]=false&ck[viewcurrency]=EUR&ck[ID]=c449f8d24f7f0caacdd1786bac1a8437&ck[idlist]=c449f8d24f7f0caacdd1786bac1a8437&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=iqdc1mpqsdv5togl1n4kedmjs0

Regards
 
RCM said:
Well guys, thanks for helping out.
From your input I understand that a new vac advance control unit is demanded. Is this adequate?:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Airtex-4V1109-Vacuum-Advance-Control-/121273931238?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1956%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item1c3c7d55e6&vxp=mtr

Regards.
Click to expand...

The loud whistling sound you said the carb makes is important to find. If it is a vacuum leak fixing the worst ones first will make more improvement, then fix the smaller ones.

From their Compatibility List that advance unit sure looks like the right one, But I'm more familiar with the ones for the V8's. If the photo of their new one looks like the old one you have, it's probably right.
You can click on the Ask the Seller a Question button and send them a message with; what you have, include a picture, and see what they have to say.

You could buy the new/rebuilt distributor and everything in and on it will be new. If you do, save your old one just in case.
 
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