Here we go again...

@dobie
I've got a 53€ price from a EU dealer!
Of course, mercury, ford, the same stuff. Never thought of that.
My first line of search is rockauto. I've always been satisfied with their service on the 6 or 7 orders I made. They ship internationally, but shipment fees are high. Gotta deal with that.
The vac advance units look the same. Are they the same? Manual says these pieces are the same for sixes and for vee8s.

@dmsfrr
@blackpearl
Couldnt test those leak possibilities today. Only tomorrow will I do that. Is it possible that the whistle comes from a leak at the ported (vac advance) or manifold (gaspump/wipers) vac ports?

Thanks for helping
Regards
 
The whistle as every one has said is a vac leak. If you don't want to spray carb cleaner all over the place use a butane torch ( un lite of course) and wave it around the area until whistle goes or engine idles better then fix the leak
 
I just looked again at the eBay listing and checked for a V8; the part number is the same. Henry Ford was nothing if not a skinflint so his vehicles were wonders of parts interchangeability.
 
There are different calibrations internally among different engines. On the older units you were able to put a small Allen wrench down the vacuum port and tighten or loosen the spring tension to adjust rate of spark advance on vacuum side of distributor.
 
RCM said:
Couldnt test those leak possibilities today. Only tomorrow will I do that. Is it possible that the whistle comes from a leak at the ported (vac advance) or manifold (gaspump/wipers) vac ports?

Thanks for helping
Regards
Click to expand...
Yes the leak(s) could be in any or all of those places, and the vacuum booster diaphragm in the top half of the fuel pump, since your car has one.
I like the suggestion from Dobie Gillis about using a length of hose, one end held to your ear and the other to search for the whistle/sound. It usually works very well, just watch out for the radiator fan.
 
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As sweet dreams said you should ask if the unit has the Allen key ajustment... I purchased one s couple of year back which had the adjustment Allen key, as long as the fittment is correct with your setup being ported vac it is very easy to set up with a timing light and a marker pen
 
Guys, I'm gonna repeat what I have just said do a hamber friend 54vicky: I am truly gratefull for having half a dozen of guys from other corners of the world trying to help me, a self declared rookie on these matters. I have a little experience with other EU old cars, which gave me some ground to adventure myself at buying a dream car (for me that is), knowing well of the challenges which I would have to face. So, thank you very much for your input.

With this said, and if you can reply, I'm gonna shoot you some very straight questions:

- Can I block all the vac lines (fuel pump and vac advance unit) and start the car?
- Can the car be driven like this?
- Could I replace the present metal vac lines with new rubber hoses?
- Could I connect the vac advance (carb ported) unit to the manifold port presently used for fuel pump/wipers, since I'm planning on installing a electric newport wiper unit?
- Does the advance plate on the dizzy have to be removed in order to instal the vac adv control unit's rod?

Thanks again.
Regards.
 
Most of the joy with the old cars is fixing and learning, so to answer your questions....
Question 1: yes, the top of the fuel pump is the vacuum pump ( fuel pump is the bottom part) , loop those two hoses ie join the in to the out
Question 2: yes, you can run no vac advance, More advance at crusing speed is for economy
Question 3: yes, as long as it is vacuum hose
Question 4: no, leave it as ported vacuum but block it until you get the new unit
Question 5: it looks like you may be able to do it with out removing the plate

Hope this helps
 
Thanks blackpearl.
I'll comeback with results as soon as I test these leads.

Regards.
 
Here's a good article from classicinlines: http://www.classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.asp
Here's a particularly important paragraph:

"As such, the "Load-O-Matic" distributor has a vacuum circuit that supplies manifold vacuum to the distributor. This is accomplished by positioning a vacuum port in the carb body slightly below (not above) the throttle plate, when in a close position. As such the distributor delivers manifold vacuum advance to the ignition system, at idle and light throttle."

Good right?!
 
RCM said:
(1)- Can I block all the vac lines (fuel pump and vac advance unit) and start the car?
(3)- Could I replace the present metal vac lines with new rubber hoses?
(4)- Could I connect the vac advance (carb ported) unit to the manifold port presently used for fuel pump/wipers, since I'm planning on installing a electric newport wiper unit?

Thanks again.
Regards.
Click to expand...

I agree with Blackpearleb434,
#1. Cap all the vacuum fittings at the carb and manifold when setting the points and initial timing. This will also narrow down the places you have to look for other vacuum leaks.
#3. "Vacuum hose" is thicker so it won't collapse, that's also why they use metal, and so it doesn't melt from being in contact with the engine. If yours aren't kinked or too rusty you can clean them up with a wire wheel brush & paint with clear, aluminum or silver color.
#4. yes, I agree w/ Blackpearleb434 again, if it's supposed to be connected to the carburetor & you connect it to the manifold it might suck out/ruin the (new) advance diaphragm. The internal passages & ports thru the carburetor provide enough restriction to prevent damage from 'full' vacuum.
 
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OK, thanks dmsfrr.
Just another thought: taking in account the previous info retrieved from classicinlines, isn't it mandatory to have the vac line connected to the vac advance unit to achieve idle?
 
Well now I'm confused... Is it a load o matic distributor that is connected to ported vacuum???? Something isn't right.... If it is a load o matic distributor the vacuum should be manifold vaccum not ported so maybe you need to supply a pic of the setup you have. And then the answer to question 1 and two is NO.
 
OK so maybe I've got something wrong here.

I re-read your posts and the classicinlines's article.
You said previously that manifold vacuum doesnt have to be at the intake manifold. The classicinlines's article states, from what I understand, that the difference between ported and manifold lies on where the vac port is: above or below the throttle plate.
On my case I believe that after all it might be manifold vac with port placed just below closed shut throttle plate.
Does this make sense?

See pics attached:
1 - Dizzy, cap, wires and the infamous vac advance unit
2 - Holley (valve cover side), at the left the line to the vac advance unit, at the right fuel line
3 - Manifold vacuum to the double action fuel pump (wipers)

Thanks.
 

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The load o matic is provided with manifold vacuum and the canister is calibrated as mentioned in a previous post to work with the springs on the breaker plate to provide the correct ignition curve for you application, i believe this set up provides advance at idle, if you canister is bad idle will be retarded and you will have a vacuum leak to the carb....replace the canister with the correct one as you can't easily calibrate it yourself
 
Blackpearl, probably my bad on assuming ported. Must be manifold placed just below the shut throttle blade. Keeps vac at idle, maintains low vac for low rpm driving and the rest of the advance at throttle doesnt depend anymore on this unit, right?
I've got a new one on its way here.
Ok to close the manifold vac port for the wipers? Can I still loop the two lines on the fuel pump?
Hate to see her parked.
Thanks
 
RCM said:
Blackpearl, probably my bad on assuming ported. Must be manifold placed just below the shut throttle blade. Keeps vac at idle, maintains low vac for low rpm driving and the rest of the advance at throttle doesnt depend anymore on this unit, right?
I've got a new one on its way here.
Ok to close the manifold vac port for the wipers? Can I still loop the two lines on the fuel pump?
Hate to see her parked.
Thanks
Click to expand...

OK to close the wiper vacuum and loop the 2 lines on the fuel pump; you just won't have wipers.
 
No problem there. I usually keep her out of the rain and I'm considering (raising$) newports during this coming year.
Thanks
 
RCM said:
OK, thanks dmsfrr.
Just another thought: taking in account the previous info retrieved from classicinlines, isn't it mandatory to have the vac line connected to the vac advance unit to achieve idle?
Click to expand...
I haven't worked on a Ford 6cyl since '89 and it was a '78 model, but all the tune-up spec's I remember seeing tell you to disconnect the vacuum line to the dist, and plug/cap the carb end of that line, before setting the timing.
 
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