Help diagnosing engine problem

This is about the most useless methodical troubleshooting thread I have seen in a long time.
While every suggestion is a somewhat valid one, its probably bit the owner before, you would do yourself a favor and search for a recent thread that said " No spark" or something like that.
SteveB31 and Mike V from Florida, IIRC both had good ways to diagnose your apparent no spark condition.
Otherwise you will be running around in circles.
Good Luck.:)
 
Sounds like you are trying to follow up the things mentioned here.
Not too clear on the fuel side, but at least you have some.
Try the testing sequence Mike V has posted many times.
If the points wear, you would have no spark. Look at the gap of the points.
Do not start tearing into things until you determine what is wrong.
Bob
 
As you can see by the responses on this thread, there are numerous possibilities. I had a similar issue coming home from an event and some club members helped me determine that my carb float was stuck. Using a wrench (the only tool I had at the time), we tapped the side of the carb and off I went. I haven't had the problem since.
 
I have 6 volts @ both sides of the fuse block, both sides of junction box, and 6 volts @ both sides of the coil. I did as Mike V. suggested, opened the points with a piece of paper, removed the condenser and turned the ignition on and I have 6 volts @ the points. Next step from Mike V.

Remove the paper from the points and see that the points are closed. You should not have 0 volts at the points. If not,
The points are dirty or the distributor is not grounded well to the engine.

How do I know the points are closed? I shouldn't have 0 volts. What should I have?

Chris
 
CWilson said:
I removed a spark plug and with the plug wire attached, set it up against a head bolt. There was no spark.
Click to expand...

My apologies, I realized when I had my wife helping me turn the engine over I might not have had the key turned on. Tried it again with the key on, and I do have spark.
 
What you're experiencing is exasperating and a little depressing. You begin to think this thing will never run again! But stick with it, you'll find out what's wrong and fix it, and be wiser next time. Hope this is not useless information, Rex.
 
Thankfully I do not become discouraged easily. I understand that it is a process of elimination, I'm just not sure of the methods, or what to check next if I have spark, and voltage everywhere I should.
 
I tried starting with the choke full out for awhile then quickly pulled the plugs and I have wet plugs so it's getting gas.
 
Chris, you asked about how to know if the points are closed. Removed the cover with the coil wire in it, remove the rotor and "cap" with the plug leads attached to it.
Look at the rubbing block on the points, if it is on a flat on the distributor cam and the points are touching they are closed. Now use the crank and rotate the engine until the rubbing block is on top of the cam and see if the points are open (.018 to .022).
If they are still closed, set them and you may have found your problem. ;-)
 
It looks like you have lots of "meat" on the points but the stationary point block appears cracked pretty bad. As others mentioned hand crank the engine until the points are fully opened and check the gap. It appears they may not open enough or at all due to the apparent wear on the rubbing block.
 
With the points open or closed, I am still getting 6 volts on both sides of the coil with the key on.
 
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Looks like the points are dirty and do not open much.
1. What is the gap measurement when the points are full open?
2. Are the points shiny and clean where they make contact or are they grey and burned looking?
 
With the dist cap and rotor off and key on do you have a spark at the points when you turn the engine over with the starter?
 
I think you have a broken timing gear. take the cover off the right front of the engine and you will probably be able to see the problem. Do not try to start the engine before checking this or you may create serious problems with your valves! The timing gear is easy to replace. Just check Les Andrews or similar manual for instructions.
 
I think you have a broken Timing gear. Remove the cover on the right front side of the engine to check. Turn the engine with a crank and watch motion of the gear. It is easy to change this gear,but use the suggested manuals as a guide.
 
With the points open see if you have 6 volts at the movable contact. If not, then check the sitch to see if both terminals have 6 volts.

The points ground contact mounting block should work, but also should be replaced because it's broken.
 
If there is voltage on both sides of the coil with the points closed, the circuit is open between the coil and the points. Possibly the ignition switch, the ignition cable or the pig tail.

A's Always
Dave
 
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