Head Stud Removal

41Joe

41Joe

Senior Member
Okay, I have come to a halt on my project.
I have 21 studs left to remove, and they are all in there really good. I don't want to break any if possible. I bought 2 different types of stud removal tools.
I think I was able to attach the pictures.
What is the best way to remove them? The socket style tool gave up at 28. Then on the 29th stud I used the 3 jaw tool. It got torqued on the stud so tight I can't get it off.
I was going to heat the block up with a propane torch, but I am worried that I will weaken the stud at the same time and it will break.
I have been spraying the studs at the base with Kroil every once in a while. I really don't want to pull the engine and have to take it somewhere. Don't have the tools or money for that.
Any suggestions?
 

Attachments

  • 100652.jpg
    100652.jpg
    16.2 KB · Views: 48
  • SK-76014.jpg
    SK-76014.jpg
    11.4 KB · Views: 41
Heat is your friend and you are right about using propane. You don't want to get it to hot because it will warp.

You are going to break some so you better study up on how to get those out. It involves a drill motor.
 
heat stud, use wax while hot at base of stud. may take more than one try for stubborn studs but will work.
 
I have been very lucky when removing studs
I heat the individual stud, then as it's cooling
spray WD-40 at the base, and let it cool. Then,
I use a stud puller, usually trying to tighten it
first. If it won't loosen, I repeat the process.
There may be better processes, but this has
always worked for me
 
Last edited:
You will have a birthday before you will get that hot enough to warp anything on that job with a propane torch.More heat is what you need.Heat the stud only not the block.Quench with a candle don't try to remove until it is cool to the touch.Gripping the stud now becomes the next hurdle.

R
 
I have had good luck with heat/wax, Titan remover, and impact wrench on manifold studs. With that your force is really equal on all sides of the stud. You have to be careful with that Titan though because it actually is cutting into the stud and will shear it off with enough torque. My key I have found is just the right amount of heat shock to get it moving. If you have to keep torquing on it, it will shear. Then you are left with the welded nut trick or a machine shop visit with your block.

I have gotten them stuck also like you have done. Be careful with anything you do so that you don't torque it more, bind it, and ultimately snap it. Maybe spray some penetrant up in the tool to help loosen it.

Some of the stubborn ones you have to work and tweak numerous times. That stud is probably rust welded on the coolant side 1/2-3/4 deep from where you are working so the wax has to make it that far.

Jonathan
 
Joe, As everyone has said heat is the tool. otherwise you will break some or have several birthdays before you get done. Jseery has what I call the answer. I have tried every possible way and had results but not 100%.
Question-do you have access to a electric welding set, mig or stick? You need this.
I get 1/2 nuts (the cheap ones that you can buy by the pound. They will be corse thread but we don't care. They will just slip over the 7/16 " studs and will go all the way down to the top of the block. Cut off the old studs with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel so the studs are about 1 to 1 1/2" long. Put the nuts on the studs so they are touching the top of the block. Now, weld the hell out of the nut to the stud but do not destroy the outside hex on the nut. The heat from the welding will break loose the old rust. Since the nut is touching the top of the block, you cannot bend the stud which is what makes them break. Now get an impact air wrench and just sit on the welded nuts until something happens. Either the stud/nut comes loose or the weld breaks and you just reweld it. This system is 100 % and you will never break a stud.
With the tools handy, you have ALL of them out in a couple of hours.
Just my opinion, but I have played this game.
 
Floyd, for all here, once the weld is laid, should the nut be immediately turned or allowed to cool completely? Should/could wax be applied while the stud and nut are red hot?

Jonathan
 
3twinridges said:
Floyd, for all here, once the weld is laid, should the nut be immediately turned or allowed to cool completely? Should/could wax be applied while the stud and nut are red hot?

Jonathan
Click to expand...


The wax will burn off if you quench red hot.Let it cool somewhat till it isn't smoking hot apply wax candle let it wick down.Wait till cool to the touch and an impact gun will get it out.I have done 100's from 10/32" to 3/4" and haven't failed yet.
The key is to get a weld with lots of heat penetration nothing else.You can try to tighten it first and then remove.

R
 
I agree with Ronnie 100%, remember that heat severely weakens the metal (while it is hot, not after it has cooled back down). Think of a blacksmith shaping metal.
 
I actually have access to a mig welder. Since I still have 21 studs left to remove, I can try each method. Thanks everyone for all the great tips.
 
The tool on the left in your picture is what worked for me. I used an impact wrench with the lowest setting and the studs came right out. Keep the impact wrench lined up straight.
 
Yeah, that 3 jaw grip worked really well on one stud. But it gripped it so tight that I can't get it out right now. It's locked on there. I have to bring it to work to put in a vise or something. The other style with the cam locks worked for about 12. Then the cams started to get loose and fall out. I eventually gave up on that.
 
to answer 3twinridges, I let the weld cool down. I have not used wax with this method. By the time you get them all welded and you take a beer break, they will have cooled down. You do not want to impact them when hot as the stud is the hottest and therefore bigger than the hole in the cooler block. Let the stud shrink back to its original size and gather its strength back. Does not have to be all the way to room temp.
Good luck on your experiment as all of us have done that in some form and fashion.
But if a method looks like it may not work, stop and go straight to the welded nut method. If you break a stud it will be flush with the deck and the welding gets a lot trickier. I first try the double nut on a stud with an impact wrench. That is a safe way to get the easy ones out. It will tell you quickly whether they want to come out or not. This method will get none to some of them.
I them go directly to plan "B" which is the welded nut routine. That gets all of 'em.
MY opinion
 
41Joe said:
I actually have access to a mig welder. Since I still have 21 studs left to remove, I can try each method. Thanks everyone for all the great tips.
Click to expand...

You are a little vague do you want to save the studs as well get them removed? Or just remove them and live with the results?

R
 
I twisted off a stud on my 1941 and removed them all with a cam gripper and 4 foot persuader pipe. Worked well.

I tried for three days to weld a nut on broken stud but my little welder would not get hot enough to make it stick.

I used the head as a guide and drilled out the bolt. Very simple and easy. If you need the measurements I can look them up. A machine shop made 2 sleeves to use as drill guides in the cylinder head. Cost $10. I drilled everything out but the threads. Takes 5 minutes once you have the sleeves.
 
Just removed my studs. Broke 4. But I used the 3 jaw style stud remover. I also did the heat and wax method, and then when beginning to turn out the stud, working it back and forth trying to turn it further each time, till it comes out. Good luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top