Head Stud Removal

Joe, report back on your results after the weekend "adventure". If you go for the welding technique, the tech term is "weld the hell out of it". You are welding fairly thick material, nut to stud. This is not sheet metal type work. Besides you want a lot of heat into the stud quickly so it can expand against the cold block and crush the rust and corrosion and then when cooled will shrink back to size leaving a microscopic gap in the crude that is holding the whole thing together.
Best of luck!! You will get them all out.
 
Ronnie said:
You are a little vague do you want to save the studs as well get them removed? Or just remove them and live with the results?

R
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Sorry, yeah I am planning on getting new studs, washers and nuts. So I am not worried about messing these ones up. Just don't want to break one in the block.
 
Floyd said:
Joe, report back on your results after the weekend "adventure". If you go for the welding technique, the tech term is "weld the hell out of it". You are welding fairly thick material, nut to stud. This is not sheet metal type work. Besides you want a lot of heat into the stud quickly so it can expand against the cold block and crush the rust and corrosion and then when cooled will shrink back to size leaving a microscopic gap in the crude that is holding the whole thing together.
Best of luck!! You will get them all out.
Click to expand...

I was wondering what the principle was behind heating the stud and not the block. Makes sense.
 
The blue wrench, oxy-acetylene for me, and plenty of patience, and I have not broken any yet. The heat, cool cycle, and repeat, little by little, they come out. I prefer the old Craftsman cam typed puller, as I am able to save & re-use the majority of the original Ford studs.
 
my cousin retired from Ford with 30 years,as a repairman on the truck line....he said to loosen bolts,soak them with brake fluid for a few days,I did it once ,it worked...I just removed a broken stud in a 8n block by melting wax around it,then welded a nut to it.put a thin washer on it first so you don't weld the nut to the block...let it cool a little
 
Okay,
So I finally have been able to get around to working on those studs. I heated them up and used candle wax. I also had bought another stud remover socket since my last one I used basically fell apart.
They are finally all out!
And it looks like this engine has been worked on before. Or at least it appears to have the hardened valve seats. It also had adjustable lifters and the one piece valve guide assemblies. From what I can tell this is a 41 block. Did these come from the factory with sleeves? It looks like all the cylinders are sleeved. Is that good or bad?
Now I get to clean out that valley of all the sludge, remove any cylinder wall ridge, hone the cylinders and replace the rings and reinstall new valves and lifters.
 

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The valve seats wouldn't indicate it has been worked on, as they are stock (except on very late motors) but the adjustable valve lifters certainly would. You probably already know this, but don't be tempted to run a tap down the threads in the block.

Mart.
 
Id call the block 41-42 it has what they call raised intake manafold, The are 3-1/16 sleeved cyl, steel sleeves .040 thick, don't try to bore the cyl, if there just a little ring ridge you can cut the ridge and hone the cyl, if the sleeves are worn you can remove the sleeves and you will have a a ,080 over bore, Ford used to make a ,0825 piston but you can't get them any more, I just bore the cyl another .045 and use 8BA std pistons, 3-3/16, makes a good engine with those A heads, Walt
 
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