Head puller For the model A

I had a friend use a hatchet and it ruined the block as the water channels are real close to the edge and collapse easy
 
jayvee34 said:
I saw your write up when you posted it and made one to remove my stuck head. I used a 3/8" plate rather than the 1/2" plate,(just happened to have the 3/8"plate). It worked great. I think I have about 25 bucks in the puller.
Had 2 old plugs, 2, 1/2" X 6" Bolts, bought the rest of the bolts and nuts from
Lowes.
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I'm building a clone of one these pullers. How do I break the porcelain out of the old plugs? It was easy enough to break off the top but no go on the remaining piece inside. I've tried a punch and BF hammer and it doesn't budge.
 
dmaxweb said:
I'm building a clone of one these pullers. How do I break the porcelain out of the old plugs? It was easy enough to break off the top but no go on the remaining piece inside. I've tried a punch and BF hammer and it doesn't budge.
Click to expand...

Don't know why but one of the plug tops twisted out and the other I broke
off and used a 1/2 drill and drilled from the bottom of the plug.
 
I hope you have already tried using 6 putty knives of various sizes and a few screw drivers' Just drive then in from the corners and other placed you can slide them in. It will come off. The wide blade ones work great. Just keep pounding them in.
 
Half the fun is repurposing scrap into a useful tool. It's been too hot to drive the A and I have a friend whose a machinist and likes beer. Need I say more? :)
 
I'm not understanding a couple of things.
1. In the first picture of the write--up, the bolts that come up through the spark plug "shells" will spin freely. How do you tighten the nuts (above the plate) on these bolts if they spin?
2. What is the purpose of the stack of fender washers?

I'll be using 6" 7/16-20 fully threaded bolts for the "table legs" and tap the holes in the plate.
 

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dmaxweb said:
I'm building a clone of one these pullers. How do I break the porcelain out of the old plugs? It was easy enough to break off the top but no go on the remaining piece inside. I've tried a punch and BF hammer and it doesn't budge.
Click to expand...

I just made one of these pullers last year. I did not have any junk spark plugs so I purchased these engine eye bolts from Brattons. Remove the eye bolt and put a hex head bolt in its place.

A video I found helpful was this one: Ford Model A Cylinder Head Puller Tool. He puts spacers between the head and the puller to keep them parallel and to avoid it getting cockeyed and binding. It also makes it easier to place the puller on the head.

I too tapped the holes in the plate which makes it much easier than trying to hold the nut under the plate.
 
If you have access to a lathe, chuck the plug in and turn the top lip off that holds the porcelain in, then just tap it out from the bottom. Save a lot of work.
 
7_Zero said:
I just made one of these pullers last year. I did not have any junk spark plugs so I purchased these engine eye bolts from Brattons. Remove the eye bolt and put a hex head bolt in its place.

A video I found helpful was this one: Ford Model A Cylinder Head Puller Tool. He puts spacers between the head and the puller to keep them parallel and to avoid it getting cockeyed and binding. It also makes it easier to place the puller on the head.

I too tapped the holes in the plate which makes it much easier than trying to hold the nut under the plate.
Click to expand...

I came up with 2 old rusty C-4 plugs. After soaking a few days with Kroil, I was able to remove the threaded insulator retaining bushings with an impact wrench. I still had to use a hammer to remove the insulators. They will still need to be de-rusted and tapped for a bolt. Up until now I did not realize the engine puller from the vendors could be disassembled. Anybody know where I can get just the half that threads into the head?

That video has been very helpful in gathering the parts that I will need. What did you use for the spacers?
 
After removing the guts. I embedded the lifting eyes with JB Weld and ground the nut corners to fit through the spark plug hole; no tapping.

picture.php
 
I built a "killer puller" some years ago it has featured on the "barn" .Uses all 4 plug holes and pushes off ALL head studs including the front water outlet pair 1/2" thick plate .I will get my computer savvy son to post a pic .

john in Suffolk County England .
 
31a said:
hold engine with eye bolts drive thin putty knife in corners of head works for me every time
Click to expand...

One question, do you leave the front motor mount in place and remove a bolt from each side on the rear or support the engine another way?
 
dmaxweb said:
I'm building a clone of one these pullers. How do I break the porcelain out of the old plugs? It was easy enough to break off the top but no go on the remaining piece inside. I've tried a punch and BF hammer and it doesn't budge.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem on the last 2 I made a couple years ago. I just kept pounding away with a thin punch and big hammer. I don't remember if I used a center punch to chip away, but it sure took a lot of hammer swing to clean it out.

That's a good idea to use a lathe to cut the lip off to remove the guts.

I also made my own head puller like Gord's. I threaded a half inch steel plate, and it worded great. So far I haven't seen it since my terrible fire 4 weeks ago, but hope it shows up.
 
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I was putting together a good size order from Snyders so I checked with Tom Jordan:

"Yes, we have extra lift adapters available. The cost is $4.00. These are not a cataloged item so you will not be able to order them on the website. If you do order on the website you can include a note in the special instructions field to add one to your order. Part# is A-17022-LE. Of course you can order on the phone also. Just give the person taking your order the part#"

My order just arrived via UPS.

Thanks to Tom at Snyders!
 

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