Grandpa Goat's Mostly '31 Roadster

Thanks guys. How many digits is the vin stamped on the frame?

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Yeah..you got it, great looking too! Looks like paint on the rail. If it is, I wouldn't scrap and/or sand it just yet. That stamp looks 'proud' enough to show perfectly if you use paint remover to first uncover it. Wow, that number location is a foot back further than my '30 roadster!
I've always wondered ...WHY such inconsistency in stamping location:confused:
Was it Friday and guys were a little anxious to get home for wkend, or just no firm orders to always...put it right here..and no where else. Oh well, what the hay..close enough for govmnt work, eh:)
 
Glad you found it, by any chance does it match the motor? If not it means nothing as many did not right from the factory, but if it does, then you know that you have an original matched chassis, complete, which is pretty high up on the cool scale to me. And if it doesn't it still could be all original, it's just cool to have matching numbers.
 
QGolden said:
Glad you found it, by any chance does it match the motor? If not it means nothing as many did not right from the factory, but if it does, then you know that you have an original matched chassis, complete, which is pretty high up on the cool scale to me. And if it doesn't it still could be all original, it's just cool to have matching numbers.
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I suppose the factory worker could have misstamped a number, but I've never heard of such an instance.:confused:
 
Well, if it is not true then I beg forgiveness for perpetuating a myth.

I was told at some point in time that as engines and frames moved into production there were instances where one issue or another would cause the assigned engines and frames to be separated. To keep production moving, the next engine in line would be grabbed and installed. I never really gave the story a thought as it was relayed to me by an old friend who always had a few A's around, and "restored" several. I just presumed it true. He said it was not uncommon for frames and engine numbers to be mismatched from the factory.

Personally he has been a great wealth of information and support that I have known for 30 years, we have spent a lot of time in each others garage. He was very excited when I told him I bought an A. Sadly I am losing Roy as he has been moved into Hospice and is no longer be available to me. He has a half completed Closed Cab Pickup in his garage.

He may have been victim to the myth decades ago and has passed it along unknowingly as I apparently have. Or he may have been "funnin" me. He did that from time to time as old timers do to younger fellers.
 
There are 4 of what are being called steam holes, the other 2 are at the very front and very rear of the head. If it is on a Model A block do not bother plugging them, just use a B gasket. The reason for plugging those holes on a B block is to support the A gasket which is also used by most after-market (performance) heads. On the B block I recommend plugging them with a threaded-in plug and made flush with the top of the block, as they must be sturdy enough to support the gasket when cylinder pressure is applied. Have fun!
 
It would not create an issue at the DMV back in the day, (if it is even true) I had asked that question to Roy when I realized that the VIN was not readable on the cars. That is what spurred the information that he gave me. He said that everyone used the Engine VIN to register cars. So the VIN number on the frame was not important. Many states did not use titles, but the "record of ownership" as a document issued by the dealer. The OBS (original Bill of Sale) was serialized and the serial numbers issued to dealers from the state. That was the document of record. Many states did not issue titles until the 70'S? Again, just what I was told, your mileage may vary...
 
Hey QGolden,
Well, there's really no reason to disbelieve what Roy said and/or what you have repeated. It would be an exercise in futility to ...deny...that such situation was possible/not possible! Sure anything is debateable as to serial vs vin vs block vs frame registration numbers and practices, as it's fun to discuss. For those that chose to disbelieve Roys 'story'...ask for their unequivocal proof,eh ! For entertainment, just read thru the back threads...if you have enough time:D ! Sorry for the loss of your friend..Roy.
 
So I know at least one method of removing the crank pully nut that doesn't work....
img0785u.jpg

Any suggestions?

I looked at the vin compared to the motor, they don't match.

I also pulled a string across the frame. How much sag if forgivable?
Passenger side - deepest point at about the gear shifter...
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Driver side - deepest point at bell housing...
img0999u.jpg


Also... Does anyone recognize this carburetor? I think it's the one Grandpa was using, but it doesn't look A or B (I was kind of hoping it was a B carburetor)
img0995wx.jpg

img0997rr.jpg


Thanks again guys! I really appreciate the comments and conversations.
 
I also pulled a string across the frame. How much sag if forgivable?
Passenger side - deepest point at about the gear shifter...

Well you have way to much there. You want no frame sag. The closer you get it the better it will look, and the easier it is to get it right.
 
Did you mean to break the pulley? The ratchet bolt in the center must be removed first. I bent a box wrench to fit around the pulley to remove the center bolt. The Model A parts houses sell the same tool.
 
I think that someone tried to remove the bolt by blocking the pulley with something to turn the bolt, and that's how it was broken.

My question is how to block the engine so that the bolt can be turned. Is there a tool or something easily accessible that can be placed in the flywheel teeth? Or is there another way that I'm not thinking of?

Thanks again.
 
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whyitw said:
I didn't break the pulley, but I think that someone tried to remove the bolt by blocking the pulley with something to turn the bolt, and that's how it was broken.

My question is how to block the engine so that the bolt can be turned. Is there a tool or something easily accessible that can be placed in the flywheel teeth? Or is there another way that I'm not thinking of?

Thanks again.
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The best way I have found is to drop the pan and block the crankshaft. The second best way is to put it in reverse and adequately block the rear wheels so they can't turn. The third best way is to remove the starter and jam the flywheel in such a way that the engine can't turn. I'm not recommending any of these, mind you; they're just ways I have done it in the past. It's a tough nut to crack. :rolleyes:

BTW Wyatt, since you live in Lake O you should get thee to a Beaver Chapter meeting. You'll find lots of guys who know lots of stuff and are willing to come over and help any time. I'm one of the ones willing to come over and help, and have a little knowledge. PM me if you want more info about the chapter or anything else Model A.
 
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I put my wrench on the ratchet bolt and lay the end of the wrench against the left side of the frame, then hit the starter for a second with the key off, and the bolt will be loose.

If the starter or battery is out of the car, then lay the wrench to the right side, and give it a quick slam with a rubber mallet, or heavy board. That should break it loose.
 
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