Grandpa Goat's Mostly '31 Roadster

W

whyitw

Junior Member
(Sorry if this is a repost, I couldn't find my post after submitting the first time)

I recently inherited my grandfather's Model A. It belonged to my mom's dad originally, but the restoration was started by my dad's dad, for the last 25 years the car was in my uncle's garage with very little being done to it. I'm new to restoration, but fairly comfortable in the garage. I'm glad to have found this forum as I am going to have lots of questions as I put this car together. I'm a dental student now with limited time and money, but the car I believe is mostly complete and I don't plan on building a show car on my first effort anyway.

When Grandpa Goat owned the car originally in the 40's he changed some things- the wheels are newer and the head are newer, and probably lots more that I haven't noticed yet...

My current plan is to get the floor pan pieces down and then the body bolted to the frame, unless there's a better way to do it. I have a body block kit and a diagram I found showing where to mount to the frame, but the subrails have been patched and I don't know where to place holes. Does anyone have a picture of the blocks in their car? Thanks so much!

Here's the car coming out of my uncle's garage.
img0738kk.jpg


And here it is where I'll be working on it.
img0740n.jpg

img0747a.jpg


Here's the patched subrails.
img0875eij.jpg


And from below.
img0882ox.jpg
 
I would suggest to leave the body alone for now and go over all the mechanical stuff on the chassis while the body is out of the way. Once you have a finished chassis then mount the body. While the body is off the frame try to locate another roadster in your area and look at it up close and take your own photos. It will help you understand awhole lot better how these are assembled. Looks like you have a model B head.

Also if you notice at the top of your post there is a tab marked thread tools. If you click on that you will see subscribed to this thread. If you click on that you are saving the thread. To recover go to quick links and it will be in there. Saves from searching.
 
Welcome to the Ford Barn, nice Roadster! You need to get new subrail crossmembers. I got mine from Brookville, and cut the ends to the proper dimentions. I have one more to do and can give you that info later. Check out threads like the one Flop did on a 30-31 Roadster body save. There are a lot of Roadster projects here and on the HAMB with info that you will find helpfull. Bob
 
Welcome to the Barn!!!! , What a great start you have there!!!
Lots of good advice on here . I agree that now would be a good time to sort the mechanics out.
You can use that B head on a A engine but there are some small steam holes on the head that don't match the block they need to be blocked off or you could get water in your oil , Now's the time to verify if it has been done.
I dont know if it's my eyes but it looks to me like the left hand frame horn is bent out . check the dimension there with a known good one , otherwise you will have a problem lining up the front fender
.Have a look at flop's post " hotrod in 56 time for a refresh in 2012."
It shows how it should be done.
Don't be afraid to ask Question's lots of helpful people on the Ford Barn

John Cochran
 
Whyit , welcome and its looking good . I will agree about the frame . I hope that strap holding the body is better than what my old eyes see .


Go to the top of the posts and click on the sticky thread , A model websites , . go down to frames and you will see , Westcotts web site and it has the frame diagram and much more info .

Starting with a strait frame will eliminate a lot of unnecessary work .

I am sure you can find more info on the frame and building up the chassis.

Others will guide you .
 
Welcome to the club. You have the beginnings of a really nice roadster. Get a hold of the Beaver chapter, I know they are very active and they have cars that you could look at. And being from L.O. you are right in the middle of where most of the people live.

Mike
 
Welcome!
Also if you go to the top of the header you'll see the search button. Use the advanced tab and try the different settings to peruse the previous threads. Much has been covered before and there is allot of good info in the archives. While you’re looking at the frame pull a line or use a large straight edge and check the length of the frame. Many will agree (and some will argue) that most frames have sagged at the rear motor mount areas and this affects the hood to the cowl fit. There are several methods to fix that if yours is sagging.
Good luck!
 
Great start. There are a ton if things that can be done to that banger. Looks like fun.
 
Thanks for the warm welcome. Good advice already, that'll get me started. I wish I had more time to work on it.
 
img0988ai.jpg


John,

These are the two holes I found that don't correspond. Am I missing any? What would recommend to block them?

Thanks!
Wyatt
 
Is your block Model A, and you are using that Model B head on it?
I've threaded and plugged Model B block holes when using a Model A head on it, but I haven't done the opposite, as your seems to be. Have you fitted the gasket to each to see if it will safely block off any water holes from entering the cylinders?
 
You should be fine using the B head on the A block,as long as you use the B gasket.Using an A gasket would likely leak at those two holes as the edge of the gasket barely clears the holes.
 
whyitw said:
img0988ai.jpg


John,

These are the two holes I found that don't correspond. Am I missing any? What would recommend to block them?

Thanks!
Wyatt
Click to expand...
Just use a 5/16 tap and thread them, no need to drill since the cast will thread easily. Run 2 socket head screws into the threaded holes with a little permatex on the threads. The Model A gasket most times won't cover these holes and you will have a leak. Plug them just to eliminate the possibility.
 
One thing you need to check before you put the body on is the frame rails. Pull a string across the top of the frame from front to back. You will most likely find they are bent down at the rear motor mounts. If you do not get it right now you will never get the body and hood to fit right. I've had 25 Model A's over the years, only a couple had frames that were straight.
 
Thanks for the help again. I have yet to run a line to test the frame, but I'll post my findings.

Are the screws necessary? I was hoping to use JB weld to block the holes.

Here's where the holes mark the gasket...

img0989m.jpg
 
I threaded the holes and used set screws in the holes, then put JB-Weld on top of the setscrews. I used a razor to make it level.

You must be using a starter relay since the push rod is missing from the starter switch. :confused:
 
Welcome to the Barn, lotsa' folks here with a vast amount of information.

One thing that would be good to do now, is to find out from other local owners how your State's DMV works to register you car. Do you have title? There may or may not be a serial number on the engine, it may or may not correlate to manufacture date, there was a serial number on your frame that may or may not match the number that is on your motor. The serial number on the frame was located on top of the frame near where your left foot would be if you were driving. This area is hidden by the body when it is installed. So knowing what you need and what you can find is key. Some states will use an engine number, some a frame. Some don't care one way or another.

If you cannot read the frame number due to age and rust, then some states require a number to be issued. Some states require the VIN number be documented by a State Safety representative, which could be a mechanic at a garage certified to do State Inspections.

It will be frustrating if you need to pull the body after it is built to verify the VIN.
 
I'm thinking that you are a lucky guy..give thanks to Gramps,eh:)
First things first. Since you are lucky enough to have the body off the frame, now is the time to get the 'VIN' # off of the frame..left frame rail TOP..couple feet back from front end. Then match that number...(if you are lucky enough to have 'pink slip') with paperwork. Don't know Oregon DMV , but if you can get a NON OP status going...now is the time to save $/heartache later. And, if for some unfortunate reason they don't match..now is the time to straighten that out. Darn nice start. WELCOME and Good luck !
 
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