Gas valve

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WHMCJM@SBCGLOBAL.NET

Junior Member
How do i free-up the gas valve on a late '31 model a with an indented fire wall without draining the tank? It is very hard to turn and seems to be getting getting worse! Lube doesn't seem to help.
 
WHMCJM@SBCGLOBAL.NET said:
How do i free-up the gas valve on a late '31 model a with an indented fire wall without draining the tank? It is very hard to turn and seems to be getting getting worse! Lube doesn't seem to help.
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Look under the shut-off lever on top and you will see a hex headed packing nut. Slightly loosen the packing nut to relieve some tension. The valve stem is actually tapered, and someone has likely overtightened it due to the stem leaking from being scored.
 
Wow Terry!! I just found this message today (10/05/25) and found it very helpful. Thank You for all that you do for the hobby. Best Regards, J.R. Shaw
 
I have had nothing but issues with the original design gas valves. The new style ball valve is so much better and lasts longer.

Edit: My bad, I didn’t see the OP mention he had an indented firewall. I don’t know if they make a ball valve for the indented firewall.
 
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The Master Cylinder said:
I have had nothing but issues with the original design gas valves. The new style ball valve is so much better and lasts longer.

Edit: My bad, I didn’t see the OP mention he had an indented firewall. I don’t know if they make a ball valve for the indented firewall.
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I installed a ball valve ! From the tank out, close nipple, ball valve, close nipple, a tee, 2 in drop leg from the bottom, adapters down to the gas line ferrule. The drop leg catches junk and hopefully any water, the ball valve turns very easily!
 
Guten Abend!

I keep having trouble too with the original cone valves. The problem is that the car's fuel tank sheds quite a bit of rust grit, which scratches the brass cone. Polishing and greasing does not help enough; it still drips no much, but drips.

Unfortunately, I didn't quite understand the last post. Is it correct that a ball valve is used because they provide a better seal?
And that a T-fitting was inserted into the horizontal internal line so that the sediment could settle there down in a vertical line?

Ich bedanke mich im Voraus für jeden Hinweis!
 
Werner said:
Guten Abend!

I keep having trouble too with the original cone valves. The problem is that the car's fuel tank sheds quite a bit of rust grit, which scratches the brass cone. Polishing and greasing does not help enough; it still drips no much, but drips.

Unfortunately, I didn't quite understand the last post. Is it correct that a ball valve is used because they provide a better seal?
And that a T-fitting was inserted into the horizontal internal line so that the sediment could settle there down in a vertical line?

Ich bedanke mich im Voraus für jeden Hinweis!
Click to expand...

That’s my set up for a late 31 Tudor with the indented firewall and the valve at the firewall . The valve is a hardware store 1/4 turn ball valve , I believe the ball is stainless steel in a brass housing . I placed the valve before the drop leg tee fitting so to keep particles out of the carburetor . I tried the drop leg tee fitting before the 1/4 turn ball valve which would keep particles out of the valve and carburetor but the only time you could clean out the drop leg trap is when the gas tank is empty .

I don’t turn the valve off unless the car will be unattended for several weeks . I believe this helps with any particles scratching the interior of the valve by not turning the valve off after each driving session . My carburetor ( Zenith ) doesn’t leak or drip , probably because of the drop leg tee fitting catching any particles before they could contaminating the carburetor . Short of like not turning the gas shut off valve ?!
 

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Ball type valves are a common replacement for problem installations. The advantage of the ball valves are that they're "modern" and usually include a plastic/delrin/teflon mating surface for the ball to wear against.

The plastic seal is very forgiving. Actually, that is its strength in that particles are readily "embedded" in the plastic, but the ball portion "overrides" the embedment.

The downside to plastic is that it does wear. Eventually you will get to the point where the seal won't be made, or the plastic "galls" (i.e. cold works in attempting to override sufficient foreign material.)

The arrangement described above for piping is to create a sort of "dead leg" which particles will gravitate to - a "low spot" of sorts somewhat out of the gas flow. Your filter on the firewall accomplishes the same end and glass version filters allow you to see the degree of collection. Of course you could incorporate an "inline filter" on the passenger side of the firewall which could accomplish the same end.

My Gordon Smith compressor has a "Delco" spin-on fuel filter of small size to take the place of the glass filter.

Probably your best filter arrangement would be the small "stub" filters frequently added INSIDE the fuel valve on the tank. These of course confine the detritus to low level and keep it from dropping into the fuel line and creating more mayhem.

Snyders doesn't seem to carry this now. Check out https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A9193TM.html


Joe K
 
I have a repo gas valve in my car that leaks to the carb which also doesn’t stop filling and then leaks out the throat. I have a Marvel carb so I know I have to replace the float valve there. But the under tank valve, is it rebuilds me or should I just get a new one? I do have an original valve that needs a rebuild as well.

Thanks,

Mike
 
Mike, if you purchase and install one of the new reproduction valves that has a modern ball valve in the guts, you will get a good, positive fuel shut off.
.
 
If you want to continue to use the stock valve you can use EZ-Turn. See post #4. It will stop the leakage for about 6 months depending on how much use use the valve.
 
Mike, buy a new under-tank valve, as Jim says, they are a ball valve construction inside.
Steiner Tractor sells a Viton tipped float valve for Marvel carbs.
 
Big hammer said:
That’s my set up for a late 31 Tudor with the indented firewall and the valve at the firewall . The valve is a hardware store 1/4 turn ball valve , I believe the ball is stainless steel in a brass housing . I placed the valve before the drop leg tee fitting so to keep particles out of the carburetor . I tried the drop leg tee fitting before the 1/4 turn ball valve which would keep particles out of the valve and carburetor but the only time you could clean out the drop leg trap is when the gas tank is empty .

I don’t turn the valve off unless the car will be unattended for several weeks . I believe this helps with any particles scratching the interior of the valve by not turning the valve off after each driving session . My carburetor ( Zenith ) doesn’t leak or drip , probably because of the drop leg tee fitting catching any particles before they could contaminating the carburetor . Short of like not turning the gas shut off valve ?!
Click to expand...

First successful photo post !!!!
 
So the new gas valves have been redesigned with a ball valve inside? These are the ones the vendors sell? I just want to make sure I understand which one you are talking about.


Thanks,


Mike
 
WHM,
The original shut off valve in our '30 was almost impossible to turn. After digging out the old packing and lightly lapping the valve it was reassembled with new packing. It has been in use six years now and will turn with one finger and does not leak or seep. I shut the valve off every time the engine is stopped. Dale
 
Art, the answer to your question is a definite….. maybe. I don’t know if all the suppliers are now stocking the ball valve or not so I would ask before ordering. I got mine from Snyder’s.
 
1930artdeco said:
So the new gas valves have been redesigned with a ball valve inside? These are the ones the vendors sell? I just want to make sure I understand which one you are talking about.


Thanks,


Mike
Click to expand...

YES.

Read the description. If it says it has the modern ball valve internals, it does. Here is that valve on Snyder's web page. Others may also sell it.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=979339&cat=41707

Install it with a non-hardening sealer on the threads (like Permatex #2) and do not over-tighten it. Just tight enough that it does not weep gas where it screws in
.
 
Guten Abend,

I would like to order the modern ball-type valve from Don Snyders, since only the old cone-style version is available in Germany.
Unfortunately, the pencil-style strainer is currently out of stock. Can the existing old one be modified to fit?

Dankeschön im Voraus!
 
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