Fuel Push Rod in Pieces

M

mcnewt

Junior Member
This is my first run at a flat head- needed to replace fuel pump- While I had it out decided to check the wear on the push rod. Nothing I had read said it would come out in pieces, but it sure did- There was one solid piece machine to insert into a hollow tube at the top, then another machined piece on the bottom (luckly came out with the middle section)- The top also had a small machined sliver about the width of a dime resting on the top, (which incidently is now resting inside my block- Once I get my magnetic retriever I loaned to my neighbor back I can get it out- luckily can still see it)- I am guessing that this rod would have been machined in one piece and what I am dealing with is some idiot's idea of homemade? My apologies if that is the intent, but why not just make a solid rod to the right dimensions? Guessing the sliver was used to extend the rod length to make up for wear. Ideas? I intend to order/ have machined the correct rod.
 
All the stock pushrods I've come across are a center section with hardened ends. At least it appears to be a separate piece at each end.
 
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Well, you came to the right place. Under NO circumstances try to make a fuel pump push rod. They are readily available. With the year of the engine, and the material the intake manifold is made of you can buy the correct push rod. Whether it has a cast iron or aluminum manifold will determine which push rod is correct.
 
Here's the pump rod for the cast iron intake:

48-9400-A_pJPG.JPG


$5.95 at Mac's with others a little more here: http://macsautoparts.com/search.asp?sb=0&ls=y&camid=F30&year=0&make=&ss=fuel+pump+rod&x=13&y=3

Certainly no need to be hand making those.
 
mcnewt said:
This is my first run at a flat head- needed to replace fuel pump- While I had it out decided to check the wear on the push rod. Nothing I had read said it would come out in pieces, but it sure did- There was one solid piece machine to insert into a hollow tube at the top, then another machined piece on the bottom (luckly came out with the middle section)- The top also had a small machined sliver about the width of a dime resting on the top, (which incidently is now resting inside my block- Once I get my magnetic retriever I loaned to my neighbor back I can get it out- luckily can still see it)- I am guessing that this rod would have been machined in one piece and what I am dealing with is some idiot's idea of homemade? My apologies if that is the intent, but why not just make a solid rod to the right dimensions? Guessing the sliver was used to extend the rod length to make up for wear. Ideas? I intend to order/ have machined the correct rod.
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Too bad you didn't mention which year that you are talking about but it sounds to me like it's a 7/16" dia. 8BA rod and if so would be this one.

http://macsautoparts.com/1949-59-fo...d-v8-eab-9400-a/camid/F50/cp/JS0R3CHL1083793/
 
Ok so I have an aluminum intake ('50)- based on the pictures that were sent what I have is what they are selling. If you blow up the picture at Mac's you can see the lines at the separation between what appears to be the solid machined piece (top and bottom) and the hollow tube I experienced. If the PO used this- it is a piece of crap IMO. Why would you not machine a complete single piece? Machining 2 pieces and connecting them not only seems like more expensive to make but it also creates a spot for this thing to come apart- Am I missing something? Did the original rod come in as one piece?
 
mcnewt said:
Ok so I have an aluminum intake ('50)- based on the pictures that were sent what I have is what they are selling. If you blow up the picture at Mac's you can see the lines at the separation between what appears to be the solid machined piece (top and bottom) and the hollow tube I experienced. If the PO used this- it is a piece of crap IMO. Why would you not machine a complete single piece? Machining 2 pieces and connecting them not only seems like more expensive to make but it also creates a spot for this thing to come apart- Am I missing something? Did the original rod come in as one piece?
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The originals on the 8BA's are three piece and the ends are pressed into the tube.
These assemblies have been in use for hundreds of thousands if not millions of miles and yours is the first that I have heard of that came apart.
If you want to machine one out of solid stock, by all means go for it, but unless you have a means to harden the ends, I suspect that you are going to have premature failure due to wear, especially on the cam lobe end.
 
I strongly suspect that the metallurgy specifications of the rods that Mac's sells are not equal to the originals (which are readily available as cited above).
 
If you have an aluminum '50 intake...you must be Canadian! Anyway, the aluminum/iron division refers to the earlier cars and is based on the 2 common lengths of rod for various '35-48 cars. All the '49-later engines use the same piece. The critical metallurgy is really the bottom piece, which rides on the cam. It has to survive the wear and not wear the cam it rides on.
As David points out, learn to be deeply suspicious of your parts sources. Original Ford parts are getting scarce, but there are repro parts made for actual use and there are repro parts made to achieve the lowest possible cost. In many cases a used original part (though probably not one that is in more pieces than it should be!) will be a much better choice than the nearest reproduction.
 
Someone on the truck forum was looking for an 8BA-style pushrod, and found they are out of production. (Note that Mac's says they are too) He was able to locate a source in Calif. who had a few left in stock, NOS ONLY in San Jose CA 800-667-6659, and Vintage Ford & Street Rod Parts in Duarte had a couple.
 
mcnewt said:
This is my first run at a flat head- needed to replace fuel pump- While I had it out decided to check the wear on the push rod. Nothing I had read said it would come out in pieces, but it sure did- There was one solid piece machine to insert into a hollow tube at the top, then another machined piece on the bottom (luckly came out with the middle section)- The top also had a small machined sliver about the width of a dime resting on the top, (which incidently is now resting inside my block- Once I get my magnetic retriever I loaned to my neighbor back I can get it out- luckily can still see it)- I am guessing that this rod would have been machined in one piece and what I am dealing with is some idiot's idea of homemade? My apologies if that is the intent, but why not just make a solid rod to the right dimensions? Guessing the sliver was used to extend the rod length to make up for wear. Ideas? I intend to order/ have machined the correct rod.
Click to expand...

"NO" There is a reason for the hollow tube " its a weight thing":o .. a solid bar wound weigh more if not twice what the original push rod would... Not to wear the cam lob.... So fish that top out of the engine, and put it back together use some Green Lock Tight to hold it in place?? and your good to go..... oh yes welcome too the barn, we are restorers we put thing back together ,and make em run better...or so we thing;).... how about a long screwdriver or short stick;) with a glob of grease on it ..to pick-up the top out of the engine ?? ... good luck we-er here to help....:cool:OLD....BILL:cool:
 
Thanks for all the info- think I got my problem solved. In the process of ordering one. Think we are all good. Some of you guys are a hoot so I thought I would clarify a couple of things-

1) I am not Canadian
2) Every problem in the world can be solved under the hood of a ford
3) I'm a worse machinist then I am mechanic, so I will buy one.
4) thanks for the grease suggestion, but my little magnet is my most used tool.

While I am at it- I heard from a guy in West Texas that there is a place any Dallas that specializes in flatheads- supposedly world renown, but I've never heard of them. Has anybody else? He couldn't remember the name so I questioned the world renown claim.
 
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