Fuel line flare

Gooseloony

Gooseloony

Senior Member
So I ordered a fuel line replacement from sediment bowl to carburetor from Snyders a week ago, finally arrived, went to install and noticed the ends weren't flared to hold the line from being pulled out. I wouldn't think I would have to put my own flare on the ends, if that was the case I would've just made my own fuel line. I am I missing something or shouldn't this already have flares?
 

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No you do not need to flare it. it utilizes a compression style fitting when after tightened the ferrule connected to the nut breaks off. make sure the end of the line does not protrude past the ferrule more than 1/8 on both ends...
 
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Gooseloony said:
The barrel moves freely along the line, how do you maintain an 1/8th of an inch?
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Gooseloony,

Position the new fuel line with ferrule at the desired depth and tighten the nut, that will set the ferrule in place on the fuel line.

It is a good idea to dress the fuel line 45 degrees or so in case tubing comes into contact with the casting.

Darryl in Fairbanks
 
Are you saying to hold the ferrule with say pliers while tightening the nut?
And, not sure I understand the second part of your answer.
 
Place the brass furrule so 1/8" steel tubing sticks out, then slide the brass nut against the furrule and put a piece of tape on the steel tube at the end of the brass nut. Screw the nut into place while holding the tape at the edge of the nut. When the furrule is squeezed tight to the tube you can remove the tape and do the same for the other end.

BTW, looking at the picture, something looks strange. What's all the white stuff, and where are the threads on the nut?
 
The white is Teflon tape (not sure I needed it) and there are threads (maybe the lighting in the photo obscured them).
I just don't get how the ferrule works if it just "butts" up to the nut. I would think the taper on the ferrule would fit into the end of the nut?
 
Gooseloony said:
The white is Teflon tape (not sure I needed it) and there are threads (maybe the lighting in the photo obscured them).
I just don't get how the ferrule works if it just "butts" up to the nut. I would think the taper on the ferrule would fit into the end of the nut?
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The nut taper squeezes the ferrule tight to the line. Don't use any teflon.
 
Pay a mechanic to install the fuel line for you. If you don't get it right, gas will drip on your passenger's (wife) feet, and that is not good.
 
desotoguy said:
Pay a mechanic to install the fuel line for you. If you don't get it right, gas will drip on your passenger's (wife) feet, and that is not good.
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he is installing the fuel line thats under the hood.. it shouldnt hit her feet unless the floorboards are missing;)
 
start the lines by hand while holding it at the proper distance to the end of the ferrule. dont try to wrench them in at fiirst or you can easily cross thread it.
 
There are reverse tapers inside the nut and the carb that receive the tapers of the olive, this is what some are calling the ferule. As you wind the nut in, it slightly squeezes the olive into both tapers and reduces the diameter of the olive, squeezing it against the outside of the fuel line as well as against the two tapers. This will provide enough friction to prevent the fuel line from coming out, as well as a fuel tight seal if installed correctly.
 
Here is a link to a youtube video showing how one works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQGL8MBLlaE
The first part is on pex tubing. Skip ahead to 1 minute 50 seconds into the video and it covers the compression fitting on a copper line. Works the same on a steel line.
On the video the copper line extends too far past the ferrule after he tightens it for your carburetor. You can fit your fuel line up to your carburetor and adjust the length of how far the line extends past the ferrule when it is hand tight. After you put a wrench to it you will not be able to slide the pipe through the ferrule again. If you get it a little too long you can file some of the excess off.
 
Check the nut that came with your fuel line. All the ones I've seen lately have the ferrule built into the nut and you have to tighten the nut a lot to make the ferrule snap off and lock to the steel pipe. In your picture it looks like you might be trying to use a seperate ferrule in addition to the combination nut/ferrule.
 
Get rid of the teflon tape. Buy a 1/2 by 20 bolt about 2 inches long. Screw it into the carburetor at the gas strainer opening, attach the gas line to the carburetor and tighten it up this will set the ferrule at the right place on the gas line, do this to both ends and your are set to install the line. You can file the ends of the line on a slight taper. just don't hit the ferrule.
 
There is no flare because this is a "compression fitting" and it works by compressing the "ferrule-olive-sleeve" between the nut, and the carb or sediment bowl. This compression also squeezes the ferrule tight against the pipe. If it is tight enough then the gas will not leak around or through the ferrule. You need to keep the end clearance at 1/8" or the pipe will go in too far and that can cut off flow.

Do not use Teflon tape anywhere on the car. It tends to shred and leave little white pieces of tape in places like pipe elbows and carb orifices where they cause real problems.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Check the nut that came with your fuel line. All the ones I've seen lately have the ferrule built into the nut and you have to tighten the nut a lot to make the ferrule snap off and lock to the steel pipe. In your picture it looks like you might be trying to use a seperate ferrule in addition to the combination nut/ferrule.
Click to expand...

One end of the line has the nut and ferrule what seems to be "built in" together but the other end the ferrule is loose from the nut. The first time I installed it--it leaked out the end of the nut and I could just pull the fuel line right out.
 
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