Fuel line flare

When I do choose to use any teflon, such as on a rad. hose barb on a modern car like a SBC i get the kind that comes in a tube, and use it very sparingly. The tape can be very troublesome.

Tom Endy has a unique situation of removing the fuel line often because he tests many many carbs

Tom W's way of making a ferrule seal again by tinning on a layer of solder is actually very creative, but soldering is a skill not all have mastered.

But everyone on here is correct: the threads of the brass nut do not account for any sealing at all; so no sealer belongs there
 
The ferrule seats in two locations; on the gas line and inside the carb. If the seat inside the carb is dirty or miss-shaped fuel will leak around the threads. I use a Dremel bit (911) to clean and reshape the seat.
 

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We replace the one piece ferrule and nuts with loose ferrules and nuts when we sell the tube. The thread for the nut is 1/2-20 not a normal Ace stocked item.
 
Who would have guessed such a simple task could require over 40 posts. If you must use a joint sealer, google "Gasoila E-Seal". Specifically for E10 and E85 fuels.
 
If the ferrule is not compressing around the fuel line and into the seat in the carb/fuel bowl and nut, no amount of sealer is going to help. The thread on the nuts is straight not tapered and only holds/compresses the ferrule to make the seal. We clean the seat in the carb/fuel bowl using a ball type, but gets to same place. Those areas need to be clean to seal. More often then not, just needs a light clean to seal.
 
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