Ross, you don't need to modify the taper on the ferrule itself. The sorta' rounded surface is on the nut itself & pushes just on the angled side of the ferrule. Bill W.I'm thinking that it would be part #13490 on pg 58 in Brattons catalog.
I think that you're right Bill, about one side not having the taper on that ferrule. I may try removing most of the taper on one side.
Doghere, And now, have we completed FERRULES-101?
What mind stimulating subject will we do next?Motor Oils, Timing, Anti Freeze, Gear Oils, Frame Sag, those dreaded FAM's, Alternators, Torque Specs, etc, have ALL been exhausted, along with exact procedures on replacing the Muffler Bearing!
Buster T.
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OH NO! Ross, I got in more trouble on that thread from smart a**ed remarks I made, and won't repeat! Some purists didn't interpret my remarks as "humor"! I don't think I was ever forgiven for calling Ol' Henry cheap, when it came to buying cotter keys. It was almost as if I had offended GOD!Bill, I was thinking cotter pins!
Well, Brother Purdy, I'll find out tomorrow. Have a new gas line with "that" kind of fittings. I feel that if they are really "squeezed" down good, that they will be as re-usable as regular ferrules. Maybe they're tougher brass than the usual ferrules & take a little more OOMPAH! & a smear of grease to get them mated to the line well. They're designed to "pop" loose from the fitting when tightened to "squeeze" on the line. Bill W. (Even REAL brothers don't always agree on everything!)When the ferrule snaps off the fitting and fail they are usually junk and are not going to be re usable.
Possibly, these "new fangled" fittings might not pan out & so back to the regular fittings. MAIN thing, through this long thread is that we don't want someone to have a GAS FIRE & destroy their car!! Bill W.
I bought a new gas line from the carb to the pump, when I installed it I couldn’t get it to stop leaking at the pump. When I took the line back off, the ferrule at the pump end was lying loose in the pump. I noticed a tiny nick on the ferrule so I got a new ferrule. I can’t get the new ferrule to seat on the line where the line should stick out at the end at least 1/32”. Subsequently I can’t tighten the line enough to get it to not leak, there’s no more threads left to tighten.
I can’t tighten the line enough to get it to not leak, there’s no more threads left to tighten.
I know you’re not supposed to do it, but I have been known to smear a light coat of thread sealant on the ferrule and on the threads of the compression nut when assembling. If nothing else it lubricates when you are tightening the nut to swedge the ferrule to the tubing, and helps prevent stripping out the pot metal on the sediment bowl.
Maybe, but if the nut does not tighten on the ferrule, what is going to hold the line in?