FS electronic ignition

O

oldredford

Senior Member
I keep saying the next time I have a problem with my electronic ignition I am going back to points. The coil got hot and car would not start. Hardly no spark. The module either works or not. Took the coil off the other A and now the car starts fine. Paid $44. for a new coil when a regular coil cost $15. I keep saying no more but I find myself paying the price....
 
oldredford said:
I keep saying the next time I have a problem with my electronic ignition I am going back to points. The coil got hot and car would not start. Hardly no spark. The module either works or not. Took the coil off the other A and now the car starts fine. Paid $44. for a new coil when a regular coil cost $15. I keep saying no more but I find myself paying the price....
Click to expand...
Are you on 6 volt or 12

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
 
oldredford said:
I keep saying the next time I have a problem with my electronic ignition I am going back to points. The coil got hot and car would not start. Hardly no spark. The module either works or not. Took the coil off the other A and now the car starts fine. Paid $44. for a new coil when a regular coil cost $15. I keep saying no more but I find myself paying the price....
Click to expand...

Most coils are off shore cheapies no matter what you paid.

The best ever ( havent seen a bad one ) is the Bosch Blue # 00012, not 12 bucks but could be the best money you ever spent ..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CO4WA2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
Electronic Ignition systems on a Model A are like having a pet rattlesnake......
one day.......
 
The Bosch Blue 00012 12 volts are I believe made in Brazil not Germany. Anyone have issues with these?
 
I'm running a late 70's honda civic electronic distributor for 24 years with no problems but I use the coil that came with the honda. I also used the bosch blue coil on our 72 Bug and they are the greatest. The honda distributor body needs to cut .060 down and the shaft needs to be notched like the Model A. They both turn counter clockwise.
 
briphaeton said:
I'm running a late 70's honda civic electronic distributor for 24 years with no problems but I use the coil that came with the honda. I also used the bosch blue coil on our 72 Bug and they are the greatest. The honda distributor body needs to cut .060 down and the shaft needs to be notched like the Model A. They both turn counter clockwise.
Click to expand...

Wait a minute. Are you also using a vacuum advance with this setup? Tell me more about this setup. I'd really like to try a vacuum advance on one of the As.
 
Corley said:
Wait a minute. Are you also using a vacuum advance with this setup? Tell me more about this setup. I'd really like to try a vacuum advance on one of the As.
Click to expand...

I'd really like to hear about this too. I've yet to hear of anyone who has incorporated vacuum advance or retard--which is crucial--along with their centrifugal advance system. I set up my Pertronix and in-valve-chamber centrifugal advance with three clicks of retard left on the spark lever at tdc, so I can play the role of human vacuum retard and stop knocking at low rpms under load.
 
Yes it's has vacuum advance running off the vacuum port of the weber 32/36 carb (probably both centrifugal and vacuum) and averaging 25 plus mpg (fordor sedan). The distributor has around 28 degrees advance. The mechanical advance is not connected. I learned of this 25 years ago from the Nor Cal FAST club hill climbs. Charlie Yapp's front drive distributor uses a VW distributor. It's timed just like a Mallory Distributor. I've only looked under the cap a couple of times all of those years.
 
I don't know why so many people have a problem with electronic ignition in a Model A. Electronic ignition has been around since the middle 70's and is very reliable. The Pertronix Ignitor II module is pretty bulletproof if installed correctly(dedicated ground from distributor to battery). After installation, your timing doesn't change EVER due to point block wear. In the rare instance that the module does fail(hasn't happened to me), it's easily changed on the roadside. A spare module cost less than the value of a spare distributor many Model A'ers carry "just in case". I'm adding a note I got from Mel Mallory of FS Ignitions just before I bought my Zipper distributor in 2008. The Pertronix module is extremely reliable and I have nearly 10 years and 15,000 miles on this ignition setup with absolutely NO PROBLEMS. How many times have you "points guys" adjusted your points and fiddled with your timing in that time period!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..............See Mels note below.
 
Mel's Note...........
 

Attachments

  • mel Mallory note.jpg
    mel Mallory note.jpg
    56.6 KB · Views: 229
The problem I see with coil is the way they are wired. The power comes off the starter and goes to the coil then the switch. I prefer going to the switch then to the coil.
 
AL in NY said:
I don't know why so many people have a problem with electronic ignition in a Model A. Electronic ignition has been around since the middle 70's and is very reliable. The Pertronix Ignitor II module is pretty bulletproof if installed correctly(dedicated ground from distributor to battery). After installation, your timing doesn't change EVER due to point block wear. In the rare instance that the module does fail(hasn't happened to me), it's easily changed on the roadside. A spare module cost less than the value of a spare distributor many Model A'ers carry "just in case". I'm adding a note I got from Mel Mallory of FS Ignitions just before I bought my Zipper distributor in 2008. The Pertronix module is extremely reliable and I have nearly 10 years and 15,000 miles on this ignition setup with absolutely NO PROBLEMS. How many times have you "points guys" adjusted your points and fiddled with your timing in that time period!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..............See Mels note below.
Click to expand...

Same here Al,10yrs and not one instance.Would never go back to points.:D:)
 
I have an original distributor and points in my '28 CC Pickup that I maybe drive 500 miles in a rare year. Most often less...sometimes, like last year, it won't make it out of storage.

In my Touring car, see avatar to the left, I have run the same Nu-Rex electronic ignition system for over 90,000 miles. I had an intermittent problem when I had about 10,000 miles on it and discovered it was a faulty ground. I tightened the ground and have had no road problems since. I do go through the wiring on my car every 3 years or so and clean all the connections so I assume this helps contribute to "no problems". I keep a spare module under the seat but it just collects dust.
About 20,000 miles ago, I replaced the bushings in the distributor because I noticed they were sloppy but even with the worn bushings, it still ran without any issues. I have manual advance in this car.

I am now building a '31 S/W Town Sedan as a touring car and will be using a FSI electronic distributor with the centrifugal advance. I will keep a spare module with me but don't expect to need it.
I don't have a problem with stock systems but I prefer the electronic given my good luck with them.
Good Day!
 
Last edited:
Briphaeton, I imagine you had to recurve the mechanical advance on that Honda dizzy as the Honda would run at much higher rpms, and probably the advance comes in later. But I love the idea of a vacuum advance. Vw parts are really just rehashed Ford parts anyway, right? Ha! Gotta try this idea.
 
No we didn't re curve the advance. I have a sheet a various Honda distributors spec. (somewhere) The VW distributor has a clockwise advance (good for the front drive adapter that Mr Yapp makes) and I seen Surburu electronic distributor used instead. I also read that Datsun distributor are a good replacement for Mallorys. The great thing about the Honda was they were only $25 then. I used to bring a might-vac and check it the vacuum held pressure.
 
briphaeton said:
I'm running a late 70's honda civic electronic distributor for 24 years with no problems but I use the coil that came with the honda. I also used the bosch blue coil on our 72 Bug and they are the greatest. The honda distributor body needs to cut .060 down and the shaft needs to be notched like the Model A. They both turn counter clockwise.
Click to expand...

With that electronic Honda dizzy, and Honda coil, is the electronic control all built into the distributor, or is there an additional control box of some kind? I just ordered that dizzy, and want to play around with the vacuum advance idea. I feel there could be great benefit to a vacuum advance in addition to the centrifigul advance.

If anyone has a wiring diagram of the Honda setup, please point me to it. Google has not been my friend on this, and seems to present everything from atvs to Cadillacs, but not the Honda wiring diagram. Maybe I'm too old for googling this one. Ha!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top