FS electronic ignition

On 3 or 4 occasions I have seen a problem using FS ignitions (the one with module installed in stock distributor) where if you crank engine the starter kicks back and engine cranks slowly.

If we turned off ignition key it cranked normally.

This problem in all occasions was fixed by replacing solid core wires with radio suppression wiring.

According to Zipper info maybe only the coil to dist wire needs to be Radio suppression wiring.

I will have to test to see if this is true with the slow cranking problem.
 
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We have two Model A's using the Pertronix/Redmund units. One is C. advance with modern cap and suppression wires. Been in a 31 since 1997 no issues


The other is in a 29 stock dist. 12 V. Neg. Gnd. with Alternator, with Pertronix module. Properly installed with strap wires and a 6 Volt coil with external ballast resistor. No issue runs great. Lots of noise if using a radio or CB. (I do not use either)


MG 1957 Pertronix unit module been in service since 2000 so far no issues. It is running 12V Pos. Ground.


Again whatever makes you happy go for it. One advantage of electronic that is not mentioned is timing DOES NOT CHANGE! No wear since nothing touching cam. No point slip or arching or pitting. Timing once set stays rock solid.


I do wish that FSI would make their products direct on line. It can be difficult to reach them at times for a phone order and prefer not to give CC info on the phone.


Time for them to get up to speed for on line ordering!
 
I have the Zipper installed on my engine. I also bought the dist cap from Reiner's Corner that looks like the original, but uses modern type plug wires. But I used the coil wire that came with the Zipper. Kinda the best of both worlds.
 
Re: FS electronic ignition: Ignitor II module does not work on Model A

AL,

Thanks for posting this!


See email from 2008 from Mel Moore in Post #12 above from AL in NY.

I saw that in this email that Mel was going to use the Ignitor II module.

I was mainly interested in the "Leave key on and module turns off feature and does not burn up module.

I got this email TODAY from JD when I asked if Ignitor II was available.

Quote from JD Hanks at FSI.

We do not sell or recommend the Ignitor II. After excessive testing we have determined the Ignitor II Module will not work with Model A's.

Regards,

J.D. Hanks



FIRST STREET IGNITIONS / FS IGNITIONS
220 N 1ST STREET
PONCA CITY OK 74601
PH:580-762-8322

FAX:580-762-8322

WWW.FSIGNITIONS.COM
 
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I have ran one for 7 years and I wouldn't change it for the world. My brother has one on two of his cars.
 
Briphaeton, private email sent... Looking for info on which wire goes where on the ignition control module of the Honda dizzy.
 
Jordan said:
I have ran one for 7 years and I wouldn't change it for the world. My brother has one on two of his cars.
Click to expand...

Jordan,

Are you saying that you have been running the upgraded Ignitor II modules on Model As?

If so are you guys using alternators?

I wonder if JD's problem is that he tested with a stock generator with all of the DC spikes and brush noise that they make.


Thanks
Benson
__________________
 
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I've never had to replace a module and looking at one (in a distributor) I don't see a negative or positive side of the module. My were wrecking yard distributors and coils that came with the wires connected. The black with the yellow tracer is the longer of the two, They come through the side close to the bottom of the cap. The blue wire go to the negative side of the coil. Hope this helps. I never gave these that much thought, just did a little machining and ran them.
 

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Benson, I have been running the Ignitor II module in my Zipper since 2008 and have put almost 15,000 miles on my truck without a problem. I have left the ignition switch on for prolonged periods a couple of times without a problem. So as far as I'm concerned, the Ignitor II works great in a Model A.
 
AL in NY said:
Benson, I have been running the Ignitor II module in my Zipper since 2008 and have put almost 15,000 miles on my truck without a problem. I have left the ignition switch on for prolonged periods a couple of times without a problem. So as far as I'm concerned, the Ignitor II works great in a Model A.
Click to expand...

Thank you,
AL

I was discouraged after hearing from JD at FSI but I was getting ready to try an Ignitor II anyway. Your experience "cinches it!
 
updraught said:
Noticed this on the ignitor I I web page

"You cannot use solid core (typically copper) spark plug wires with this product. Solid core wires do not suppress electro magnetic interference (EMI) which will interfere with electronics in this product. A suppression style or spiral wound spark plug wires must be used."



http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor2/default.aspx
Click to expand...



Yes same is true for Ignitor I modules

ADDITIONAL INFO: (Unless a radio suppression coil to distributor wire is used on Zipper as stated in literature.)

Here is a post from 2014 about a problem I had several years prior to 2014.


05-18-2014, 06:53 PM #16
Benson
Senior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,487
Default Re: FS ignitions hard starting
I have seen the slow starter problem with Electronic ignition 4 or 5 times.

1. Turn off key and crank ... if cranks faster then replace the coil to distributor wire with a carbon RESISTOR wire.

2. Try again. If still slow cranking then replace distributor body and cap with modern cap and carbon wires to the plugs. Leave carbon coil wire in place.

The electronic ignition module is picking up a random triggers from the high voltage or the starter brushes ... which causes erratic triggering of the module. The ones I saw were firing randomly while starter was cranking.

Maybe the module is picking up triggers from the sparks from the starter brushes.

Carbon wires reduce the random triggering while starter is cranking...

I do not know why this happens only on some engines ... maybe some starters are making more sparks.
Last edited by Benson; 05-18-2014 at 07:00 PM.

I do not remember the exact year.

Engine cranked normally until ignition switch was turned on ... Then cranking speed slowed to "almost a crawl".

Fully charged Optima batteries were used ... We replaced the first Optima with a new one... same problem. checked for 6 volt cables, added ground to starter bolt from frame etc.

We fixed it by removing solid wires and using RFI suppression wires.

More here:


04-11-2018, 10:20 PM #40
Benson
Senior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,487
Default Re: FS electronic ignition
In the literature for the Zipper it states that solid brass strips for plugs are included.

BUT it also says that the wire from coil to dist cap is a special radio suppression wire.

I wonder if Zipper has some kind of radio suppression circuit built into the dist body maybe?


Quote from description:

""Your Zipper comes with a high energy heavy duty coil, a radio suppression coil wire, a set of 4 brass spark plug connectors, a dedicated ignition wire, and of course, complete installation instructions, a trouble-shooting guide, and a 30-month warranty.""

Here is URL: http://www.fsignitions.com/FSI_ZIPPER.html

According to this the wires to plugs used are solid brass and ONLY coil to dist wire is radio suppression.
Last edited by Benson; 04-12-2018 at 06:19 AM. Reason: Corrections and additional info

More here:

04-11-2018, 10:43 PM #41
Benson
Senior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,487
Default Re: FS electronic ignition
On 3 or 4 occasions I have seen a problem using FS ignitions (the one with module installed in stock distributor) where if you crank engine the starter kicks back and engine cranks slowly.

If we turned off ignition key it cranked normally.

This problem in all occasions was fixed by replacing solid core wires with radio suppression wiring.

According to Zipper info maybe only the coil to dist wire needs to be Radio suppression wiring.

I will have to test to see if this is true with the slow cranking problem.
Last edited by Benson; 04-12-2018 at 09:48 AM.
 
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Looking for info on which wire goes where on the ignition control module of the Honda dizzy.
Click to expand...

Post # 21 says:
briphaeton said:
No additional control box, it' all in the distributor. It's magnetic like the pertronix unit.
There are three wires, the blue goes to the negative side of the coil and the black with the yellow tracer go to the positive side of the coil and last a ground (one without a eyelet).
Of coarse it has to be 12 volt negative ground.
Click to expand...

Corely, if/when you get it working, how about an update on it.
 
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