front pully

I personally like the 2 piece solid steel pulley . not as apt to break as the cast spoked pulley
 
To answer Dicks question , there was never enough heat to damage the Babbitt, it's not an issue, good thought though. I received the new pulley and tried to install, the one pictured here. Well It don't fit sticks out of the crankshaft 1/2' TO FAR the fan belt would never line up. I need to make some measurements, I will better asses the problem when I pull the timing cover off, so I can see what is causing the problem, I think it's not going into the key-way properly, not bottoming out at the correct point. I'll take a few photo's to show and tell. If you remember the reason I have this problem is because I forgot to install the slinger washer ring. It's necessary to remove the timing cover and drop the pan a bit to install the ring. Bet I'll remember never to forget that again! XSXSZSXC Frank PKNY
 

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Re: front pully update

Well here's an update , I pulled the timing cover, to see why the sleeve was not seating. As the photo's show the keyway has a slight lip on it keeping the sleeve from seating all the way. After measuring I can see it will fit properly accounting for the slinger ring in place. I may need to trim the sleeve a bit to get proper alignment of the pulley.
 

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Need to drop the pan about 7/16" to get the slinger ring on , the seals will be fine. No need to change them.
 
Update job completed, new pulley installed , lines up very well. I like the fact that the two piece that I used, looks to be original. Checked the alignment, against the pulleys on the water pump and generator all within 1/16". The photo may look like it's not aligned due to parallax distortion from the lens of the phone camera.
 

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Frank , whose pulley did you finally use, the screw in type, etc.?
Are you using the teflon rope seals and are they working out?
 
Great information on the problem and the fix! I also have a broken crank pulley that I'm about to fix and your indepth look at it all certainly helps helps, Thanx. Glad you got it all done.
 
Frank, the crank has an enormous v shaped counter bore where the ratchet nut goes. The shoulder on the nut will not stop the face of the nut from contacting the crank face. Any washers should go in before the snout of the pulley to keep alignment of the fan belt. and the square key will need a cutout in the shim washer to clear the key.
 
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FRANK PKNY said:
Well I broke the pulley trying to hold it still. So a new two piece pulley is needed. Does any one have experience with them? If so what supplier is recommended. I know that there are lots of poorly reproduced re-pop parts out there. The reason for using a two piece is I'm trying to do this job without removing the radiator.
Click to expand...

I've replaced a few with the one piece that brattons sells. They're well made, and look good.
 
I got the two piece from Mikes A parts, it's the same one that Macs sells, ( I do not do business with Macs, found them to be unreliable).
331365
 
Re: front pully update

I am putting together a '49 flathead, just about to put the slinger washer in. I notice there is a key slot on the inside circumference of the slinger washer. There are two keys on the crankshaft, the key on the shaft behind the front seal (which is fully covered by the crankshaft sprocket which meshes with the cam sprocket)and the key nearer the front of the shaft which engages the pulley. Is there some need to engage the slinger washer key slot on a key or is the slot only there to ease placement over the key which engages the pulley? OR? thanks to any experts who can shed light on this.
 
The slinger should go against the crankshaft timing gear. There is usually a little
of the timing gear key showing that the slinger slot should slide over.
Might post this on the Flathead forum.

Bob
 
Probably a silly question but I'll go ahead and ask it. Could this pulley be machined larger and also be used as an external balancer? I'm sure there's a simple answer as to why it can't be used that way.
 
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