front pully

[FRANK PKNY]

I have a newly rebuilt engine, Installed and assembled it as I usually do, with lot of care and precision. Well I think I missed something as I have noticed a slight rumbling from the front crank pully. The nut is tight and locked with red lock-tight. There is some slight play horizontally with the crank it moves back and forth about .005 ". I am aware of the procedure to remove the pulley (one peace). I think I may have left off a washer between the pulley and the nut? Is it normal to have a shim washer here? I don't recall ever having to use one years ago?

 

[Keith True]

Take the ratchet bolt back out.Then reach into the front of the pulley to feel the joint between the crank and the pulley.If the crank sticks out past the pulley it will never be tight.If the pulley sticks out beyond the crank you should be OK.This can happen if the oil slinger is left off the front of the crank.Or,a bad repro pulley,worn pulley,and a few other things.When you say .005 movement,are you meaning just pulley movement on the shaft? Not crank endplay?If it is sliding that easily and rumbles it doesn't sound like a pulley you would want to use.

 

[1955cj5]

I had a similar problem.

We used the front pulley that came with the core engine that we rebuilt. It seemed fine and fit tight....

But after a few hundred miles it started to have just a bit of rotational play. It would move and then come up against the key in both directions.

I managed to break it while trying to tighten it so I ordered one from Berts and it fit fine.

When I took the old one off the crank was perfectly flush with the pulley so though it tightened well it didn't hold.

The new pulley was slightly proud of the crank and it tightened down and no further issues..

The old pulley had a part number but it was not a ford part....old repop I guess...

 

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I "think" the suppliers have a washer, for when the crank protrudes PAST the PULLEY.
Bill Loose

 

[George Miller]

I "think" the suppliers have a washer, for when the crank protrudes PAST the PULLEY.
Bill Loose

that would be a good fix.

 

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

that would be a good fix.

A CARTOON:
A running BOLT was tryin' to SCREW a running NUT----"NO, not without a WASHER"
Bill W.

 

[JohnLaVoy]

There is suppose to be a slinger put on that the pulley rests against.

 

[FRANK PKNY]

Well I broke the pulley trying to hold it still. So a new two piece pulley is needed. Does any one have experience with them? If so what supplier is recommended. I know that there are lots of poorly reproduced re-pop parts out there. The reason for using a two piece is I'm trying to do this job without removing the radiator.

 

[Art Newland]

I used one of these;
https://www.brattons.com/two-piece-crankshaft-pulley.html

Was a very nice part and fit very good.

 

[FRANK PKNY]

Thanks all. I'm going to order one from Bratton's. Frank

 

[Jacksonlll]

I think the rad will be coming off. When my pulley broke, it chewed up the rope seals. I was able to put it back together with both new seals without dropping the pan.

 

[FRANK PKNY]

two types of two piece pulleys available. Any input on either one. I hate ordering anything from Macs (on the left) however the one they offer looks to be better than the one Brattrons offers (on the right).

 

[FRANK PKNY]

two types of two piece pulleys available. Any input on either one. I hate ordering anything from Macs (on the left) however the one they offer looks to be better than the one Brattrons offers (on the right).

 

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

two types of two piece pulleys available. Any input on either one. I hate ordering anything from Macs (on the left) however the one they offer looks to be better than the one Brattrons offers (on the right).

Get the one on the LEFT, it screws together with a L/H thread & looks stock. I put on a DAB of Loctite, jist to feel"GOOD"
The one on the RIGHT spels T-R-O-U-B-L-E!
To get the stock one OFF, jist slide it out & break out the SAWS-ALL!
Bill Shortcut

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Two of my engines had the Bratton's style, and never had a problem.

 

[CarlG]

They are a PITA to install, but I prefer the one piece machined pulley that Bill Stipe makes.
Once it's in there, you will never have to replace it again.

 

[Dick Steinkamp]

I would advise against using red Loctite on the next one. Unless you can get it pretty hot, something is going to break before the fastener comes loose. No Loctite should be needed, but if you must, blue would be more than sufficient.

 

[FRANK PKNY]

Re: front pully update

Well after using some blue flame magic and my air wrench, the nut broke loose. that is a relief. John Lavoy was spot on, in his comment about the slinger washer. I was able to take a photo inside the crank opening, with my phone as you can see the slinger ring is missing. This caused too much end play, the pulley hammered back and forth pounding the washer thin. When I assembled the engine I left out the slinger off, the pulley felt tight, would not move back and forth, because the rope seals held it tight. when the seals wore in the pulley began to move back and forth, causing the noise I heard. I ordered new parts today from Snyders and will reassemble them ASAP. I'm not sure that the slinger ring can be installed without removing the timing cover and dropping the pan a bit. You can see the problems via the photo's. also notice that the nut has a shoulder that keeps it from bottoming out against the pully.

 

[30 Tudor]

To loosen the crankbolt I put on the tool, rest it against the right side frame and hit the starter.

 

[Dick Steinkamp]

You may want to check the babbitt on the front main. If you used enough heat to break the red Loctite you may have damaged the babbitt.