Ford t5 adapter

You left a method out for an 8ba block.
Use a Chev bell housing by redrillling it to fit the block.
Then everything from the block back becomes Chev including the flywheel.
 
Pete said:
You left a method out for an 8ba block.
Use a Chev bell housing by redrillling it to fit the block.
Then everything from the block back becomes Chev including the flywheel.
Click to expand...

LOL, I could say I don't do Chevy parts! But I really just forgot. All I've messed with are the stock type clutch setups on the 59a blocks (mine is a 33). I really don't know much about the later block setups except what I read.
 
Ol' Ron said:
So you need to run the chebby wheel on the flathead?? how much doz that cost??
Click to expand...

I get aluminum ones at swap meets for 125 to 175.
Takes about an hour to machine to fit the flathead.
This is consistently cheaper in the long run than buying a new aluminum wheel for a flathead.

I use scatter shield bell housings and usually pay 75 to 100 for them.
Another advantage here is they have more meat around the outer edge for
redrilling.
 
Pete said:
I get aluminum ones at swap meets for 125 to 175.
Takes about an hour to machine to fit the flathead.
This is consistently cheaper in the long run than buying a new aluminum wheel for a flathead.

I use scatter shield bell housings and usually pay 75 to 100 for them.
Another advantage here is they have more meat around the outer edge for
redrilling.
Click to expand...

What starter do you end up using?
 
Ol' Ron said:
Sounds like allot of work, and I'd rather uz a cast iron flywheel for street.
Click to expand...

Street people usually want to go the cheap route and this is cheaper.

I use a Chev gear drive starter. Mounts by drilling and tapping a couple holes.

Cast iron flywheels have been discussed (beat to death) before.
 
Not T-5, but something I did that others might find interresting.
It uses a Model Engineering (We are only 32, Gene Sanders) bell housing adapter to a Ford toploader transmission. This is a Jeep T-176 CASE ONLY with the Ford toploader gears installed. The Jeep shift housing is used.
Behind the trans is a small adapter that adds 2" to the overall length, that then couples a Gear Vendors overdrive.
I did all this because I wanted a 4 speed, an overdrive AND I wanted the shift lever right where Henry had it (within an inch, anyway).
This really works well, gives 8 forward speeds, if I want, and is controlled by a switch in the shift ball with the wires inside the shift lever. The lever is actually a Marlin Model 60 22 cal rifle barrel.
 

Attachments

  • Trans & Overdrive 009.jpg
    Trans & Overdrive 009.jpg
    137.1 KB · Views: 50
  • Trans & Overdrive 011.jpg
    Trans & Overdrive 011.jpg
    143.1 KB · Views: 56
  • Trans & Overdrive 013.jpg
    Trans & Overdrive 013.jpg
    151 KB · Views: 53
  • Trans & Overdrive 001.jpg
    Trans & Overdrive 001.jpg
    131.7 KB · Views: 56
Thanks for the compliment, Bob
If I were going to do it again, I'd use the closed drive shaft and add the OD to the torque tube. It would be easier and quite a bit cheaper, I think.
Regards
Jim
 
Kahuna said:
Thanks for the compliment, Bob
If I were going to do it again, I'd use the closed drive shaft and add the OD to the torque tube. It would be easier and quite a bit cheaper, I think.
Regards
Jim
Click to expand...

Nice set-up. Would you use a Mitchell overdrive?
 
There would not be a reason to use a Gear Vendor setup with a T5. The GV provides the overdrive to transmissions that do not have OD. The T5 already has OD. GV will work on a lot of 4-speeds and automatics, my installation was behind a Ford C6 automatic. If you go to the GV site they have a lot of information about the setup and the applications.
 
Ol Ron
If you mean the bell adapter, I don't know if a T-5 will fit, but Gene also makes an adapter to use a T-5. Same setup as I used, I think.
Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top