Ford 94 Carburator Issue?

I still believe a lot of Vapour lock problems are a poor performing mechanical pump or air leaks in the line ,hot fuel only escalates the problem .If you insist on a electrical pump here is one of the best out there no pressure regulator needed as its rated at 2,1/2psi solid state Rated for vintage cars .6 volt 12 volt .Ted

By what name does the pump answer?:)
 
My understanding is that the inline is just to keep things moving.
The mechanical pump will be doing the feeding still.
 
@flatheadmurre: Not sure I catch your drift.
Should the pump I bought work or no?
BTW: In the off position the inline electric pump has 100% flow through.
 
Yes your mechanical pump will drive. I removed my mechanical and run just electric.

The only problem is if your rubber seal ever goes and your electric is running it will push gas into your crank. That's why I removed mine
 
@flatheadmurre: Not sure I catch your drift.
Should the pump I bought work or no?
BTW: In the off position the inline electric pump has 100% flow through.

The problem is you're getting answers from purist who like to keep their cars as close to original as possible and from people who don't mind modifying their cars if they believe it to be an improvement. These cars all run when they left the factor, so they will work with the original parts. On the other hand most of our cars/trucks are not in original condition with new everything and times have changed. The fuel is different, the driving conditions are different, etc. I'm in the camp of modifications are fine, but like to keep them period correct to the 50s, early 60s. So there you go. Your electric fuel pump will work fine and solve some issues. There is the concern with the original pump failing and pumping fuel into the oil, there are fixes for that or you can just use the elec for startup and vapor lock or you can convert to total elec.
 
@JSeery: Original not an issue on this! LOL
Thanks
 

Attachments

  • Rear Tire 1.jpg
    Rear Tire 1.jpg
    109.8 KB · Views: 48
  • Engine Top.jpg
    Engine Top.jpg
    74 KB · Views: 53
Thanks.
I have no idea where you may have seen it as I've only owned it for a few weeks.

Nice car - have some fun with it! If you're new to flatheads and need anything, just let me know - be happy to help you out.

PS: I think you'll find that having the accel pumps on the #3 hole will give you the biggest squirt of fuel and it will run the best in that position. If you're running an open hood, kind of surprises me that you'd have vapor lock (due to the amount of air circulating around the engine). Are any of the fuel lines close to the heads/block???

B&S
 
@Bored&Stroked: Thanks! I'm trying to have fun but this fuel (I think) issue is pissing me off.
I have not put the electric pump in yet and I went for a quick ride and the ***** stopped on me again.
NO WAY it's vapor lock…no hood…40 degrees outside…only running for 4 minutes…fuel pump and lines were cold...1/2 tank of gas.
I'm thinking the fuel pump is bad.
 
Drive it until it quits.
You still got spark ?
Loosen the fuel line into the carb and crank you got fuel coming out ?
Narrow down the things that can be wrong one by one and you find the source.
 
Not sure how to safely check for spark on a Magneto equipped car.
I'll Google that.
I don't want to screw it up.

The problem with checking the fuel is that it's so intermittent I know there will be fuel when I check.

I dragged the thing home last night after it left me stuck and it fired up no problem in the driveway.
 
Run it from a container of gas placed high enough to gravity feed into the carb.
If it quits on you from heatstroke then its ignition .
If it runs like a champ on that setup.
next is fresh gas in clean can suction fed into the fuelpump.
If it still works great crud in tank or fuel lines.
 
Back
Top