flooding Zenith carburetor

I see. Ok, I will start checking the fuel supply to the carburetor and see if I can find any blockage along the way. Thanks again for all the assistance.
 
If fuel flow is OK at carburetor, concentrate on the combustion chamber which needs a very delicate mix of a near exact amount of both "air" & "fuel".

Your Model A is really talking to you in a special Model A language.

It is saying: "If you have to choke me to operate correctly, I am either not getting enough fuel, or I am getting too much air; or I am getting too much air & not enough fuel -- take your pick -- & do not forget to get the oil can to check my intake manifold & see if my carburetor jets are clean, & if my float is adjusted properly !"

Please don't let anyone catch you talking back to your Model A.
 
Okay, I took apart the carburetor and cleaned it. Replaced the choke rod, and put a new gasket on the carb. I cleaned out the gas lines which gave me a much better flow of gas to the carb. The engine now starts up with the GAV open one turn, and I do not need to muck with the choke at all! I am very excited that it is running as it should. Thank you all so much for the help.

Now....... I see that antifreeze is leaking from the engine. I also see moisture around the head gasket. How much trouble am I in now?

antifreeze.jpg
 
You say the carb "floods" after only a short period. Why not check the check valve in the carb. If it is stuck or cruddy and not operating properly, that would sure cause flooding in short order.
QUESTION: Does flooding mean gas leaking from the carb open intake?
 
The carb does not flood anymore. Since I am new to this you have to forgive me. I did not see exactly where the gas was leaking from. But there would be gas dripping from the carb near the drain screw.

Any ideas on the antifreeze leak?
 
Check the head nuts torque for 55 lbs. On the water pump, it looks like you have an aftermarket nut with very thin teeth to grab onto to tighten the packing nut. You could unscrew the nut and pack some grease in there and reinstall it with a light snug, then tighten as needed. If it still leaks, then I'd unscrew the nut and use a small hook to pull out the old packing and install 2 new split lead packing rings. Be sure to smear grease around the new packing rings as you install them, or you may have a constant small drip that you can't stop.

I rebuilt my pump exactly as original and never had a drip in 10 years. On all future rebuilds I will do it the same, except to add the seal in the rear of the rear bushing. This will better keep the grease out of the antifreeze, and the antifreeze out of the grease.
 
Grease the pump and retorque the head as Tom suggests. There is a good head nut tightening sequence in the left lower corner of page 38 of the new Brattons catalog. Tightening sequence is important. Antifreeze leaks in places that water doesn't. I use plain water in mine and they run cooler. My model A's are now only fun cars and I drain them in winter. You don't want antifreeze mixing with the oil or it will ruin the babbit .bearings.
 
So you recommend using water instead of antifreeze? Interesting. I will look into that more.

Is there a temperature gauge you recommend installing?
 
Hi Izze 8,
Looking at your picture I would lubricate the distributor shaft, look out for dried oil in the oil bung and dibble a little at the top under the point cam.
Have fun.
 
izze_8 said:
So you recommend using water instead of antifreeze? Interesting. I will look into that more.

Is there a temperature gauge you recommend installing?
Click to expand...

I use the temperature gauge that mounts inside the cab, under the speedometer on the instrument panel. I don't remember if I got mine from Snyders or Brattons but they both handle the same good parts. I connect the mechanical sending unit to a metal tube in the upper radiator hose.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
Whether you think you need it now or not, just get a very helpful "Carburetor Fuel Level Gauge" for under $8.00 -- comes in handy especially with a Zenith which causes problems at turns & sudden stops.
Click to expand...

How does this fuel level gauge come in handy with the sudden stop problem? That is what I am dealing with right now.
 
a common cause of stalling at stops is improper float adj. the fuel level gauge shows you the level. the gauge all the suppliers carry are junk. go for getting one at renners corner a few more dollars but good quality and different design
 

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Isn't it easier to set the level with the top of the carb sitting on a jar? Wouldn't this gauge force you to repeatedly disassemble the carb?
 
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