Float a motor vs. stock mounts

Hi All... Noobie here,
I think I've read about 4 discussions on the FAM vs stk mounts. each one giving different insights and info thanks.
questions
How about;
1. the FAM when doing the B eng/trans into A ? front and rear ?
2. I lost the link to thread on 'correct/better' way to install front 32 style mount
3. Any link to post about 'Marcos frame straightening guide' mentioned ?

Thanks !
 
Well, since we are talking about mounts, If you are installing the original motor mounts how tight do you screw the nuts down. I was told if it is to tight it will vibrate sooo just go past the bolt cotter pin hole and drop the cotter pin in. :confused:
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Lance,
Is drilling holes a CARDINAL SIN?:eek: Maybe I should throw away my drill motor, drill press, drill bits, & UNI-BITS & GO TO Confessions?:eek: Unwanted holes can be welded up, just ask FLOP! He's a GENIUS AT IT. Betcha' he could build a roadster out of a Sow's Ear!:p Look what Purdy Swoft built out of an old roadster that looked worse than a Bonnie & Clyde Car that had been chased through a narrow woods road!!:D Bill W.
Click to expand...

Its not the drilling of the holes that are my concern as much as the welding. With very little, if any real welding experience on my part has me learning as I go. I was hoping to some how save/repair my cross member but looks like that maynot be in the cards. The center hole is the size of a nickle that someone had shimed full with a bolt and then hammered down to fill the void. Current result is a 4 inch crack running away from the hole alone the top of the cross member.
 
Previously, I had installed the center and rear FAM mounts, and then only recently decided to install the remaining front FAM mount kit, in spite of the fact that many writers here on the forum don't seem to like it. I finally did so after seeing one of our club members having one of his original front springs pop-out, not once, but twice, resulting in his engine dropping and chewing-up his fan belt... and two tow-truck rides home. (It was after the second failure that he finally converted to the FAM mount, and he still seems very happy with it).

Not wanting to suffer his same fate, I installed them on the front of mine, and the only problem I ran into on the installation was that I had to cut the long threaded shank off of the bottom of the motor-mount yoke (where it sticks through the hole in the frame)... only because it was so long that I was unable to simply "pull it out" (per the instructions), because the pulley was still in the way (even after raising the engine as much as I could).

Once I got it out, an inspection of the crossmember showed it to be without any flaws, so I drilled the two holes and finished the installation without any problems.

I've since driven it here and there, and have not noticed any increase in the alleged engine-to-frame vibration that so many other writers wrote about. Bottom line is that I am so far very pleased with it!
 
Bobs29ModelA said:
Previously, I had installed the center and rear FAM mounts, and then only recently decided to install the remaining front FAM mount kit, in spite of the fact that many writers here on the forum don't seem to like it. I finally did so after seeing one of our club members having one of his original front springs pop-out, not once, but twice, resulting in his engine dropping and chewing-up his fan belt... and two tow-truck rides home.
Click to expand...

I wonder how the springs could pop out if the flat plate with the dimples made to align the springs was in place.
 
lance leblanc said:
Yep, Thats all a lot to consider... I think that enough reason was given to accept that changing the org. pads will do in my rebuild.

Besides with this new found crack in the front cross member, the last thing I want to consider is drilling holes in anything!
Click to expand...

The crack and oversize center hole came from loose spring u bolts. A lot of do it your self guys do not tighten bolts correctly. I find many bolts loose on Model A's that I have worked on.
 
I just replaced the mounts on my 30 coupe because of alot of vibration. The front mount was some kind of large single rubber donut which I replaced with a stock setup. The rears were stock but the drivers side mount had a 1 1/2" hole where the top bolt went through. The passenger side was good. The rubber was hard and chunks were broken.
I wasn't able to find a new mount and didn't want to weld a hole that big in a motor mount so I got a rear FAM kit from Snyders. The install was pretty easy to do. All I can say is WOW what a difference! Very little vibration and no more rattles. It rattled horribly before. Maybe replacing the rears with stock mounts would have done the same, I don't know. I also replaced the radiator while it was apart, no more overheating. It's like a new car.
 
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